- Thread starter bigkev75
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johnrev
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bigkev
I've just done a conversion on a SIP Migmate 130 and have not used the board so it is going spare. In all honesty I didn't even check if the board worked before I dismantled the SIP but I imagine it would be OK as the machine's push button switch bank was the problem. Eddie will know if it's suitable for your welder but it certainly looks the same from memory (it's out in my shed at the moment but I'll check tomorrow). If you need it just let me know and I'll send it to you. Don't want anything for it but it may do you a turn.
John
I've just done a conversion on a SIP Migmate 130 and have not used the board so it is going spare. In all honesty I didn't even check if the board worked before I dismantled the SIP but I imagine it would be OK as the machine's push button switch bank was the problem. Eddie will know if it's suitable for your welder but it certainly looks the same from memory (it's out in my shed at the moment but I'll check tomorrow). If you need it just let me know and I'll send it to you. Don't want anything for it but it may do you a turn.
John
Yes, on the underside of the board, at the transformer, the left is 12v AC out and the right is 240v AC in.
Before the 12v AC goes to the relay, it first goes up and to the right. One track goes to the green plug & socket, off to the trigger switch in the torch, then back to where there are 4 pins in a diamond pattern. That is the rectifier - 12v AC in, 12v DC out. On the component side of the board the rectifier is a black circular plastic tub. The two 12v output tracks from the rectifier go to the coil of the relay.
Before the 12v AC goes to the relay, it first goes up and to the right. One track goes to the green plug & socket, off to the trigger switch in the torch, then back to where there are 4 pins in a diamond pattern. That is the rectifier - 12v AC in, 12v DC out. On the component side of the board the rectifier is a black circular plastic tub. The two 12v output tracks from the rectifier go to the coil of the relay.
bigkev75
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Smashing mate thank you for your kindness if it will fit I’d be so grateful John
bigkev75
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Great thanks Eddie...John has been so kind and offered me his old pcb do you know if it would that fit my machine.? Thanks Kev
Not sure ... yours is an Autoplus and John's is a Migmate...SIP have often "upgraded" their PCBs and changed the layout even in the same model.
This shows a Migmate, and the board looks the same as yours:
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/sip-wirefeed.htm ( click on the internal photo to enlarge it )
but the blue wires are not quite the same... but probably would work OK.
This shows a Migmate, and the board looks the same as yours:
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/sip-wirefeed.htm ( click on the internal photo to enlarge it )
but the blue wires are not quite the same... but probably would work OK.
bigkev75
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Right so have just ohms tested it and I have O.L on meter so no reading
bigkev75
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Just sent you a message mate
johnrev
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Just had a run out to the shed and got the board. Underside tracks are identical to yours and top looks the same too. Power transistor is a TIP35C so if yours is the same I suspect Eddie will say it is OK. Pic below (or above-
I never know where it will end up). There it's stuck itself in the middle this time??
Only difference I can see is that yours is marked MIG03IPF and this one is MIG02IPF. Let's see what Eddie reckons.
If I were you I'd keep following Eddie's guidance and test out your board anyway. It's a great way to learn about these machines with Eddies help.
If you PM me your name address and postcode I'll get the board off to you.
John
Only difference I can see is that yours is marked MIG03IPF and this one is MIG02IPF. Let's see what Eddie reckons.
If I were you I'd keep following Eddie's guidance and test out your board anyway. It's a great way to learn about these machines with Eddies help.
If you PM me your name address and postcode I'll get the board off to you.
John
bigkev75
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Yep Eddie sure knows his stuff he is a god send... I’m so glad I found this site you guys are so welcoming
johnrev
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Yes I haven't been here very long myself and each time I'm asking for help. Help is always there and the depth of knowledge is amazing. I check here every couple of days to read the latest problem and advice posts. There's no better way to learn about what makes our welders tick.
I'll be in touch.
John
I'll be in touch.
John
As far as I can tell, the two boards are functionally the same, so a straight swap will solve the problem !
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-12V-2-Output-Through-Hole-PCB-Transformer-2-25VA/124297145609
The pin spacing may not match yours exactly, may have to use short wires to connect it to the tracks.
That means the primary of the small transformer is blown - open circuit, which often happens. Typical replacement:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-12V-2-Output-Through-Hole-PCB-Transformer-2-25VA/124297145609
The pin spacing may not match yours exactly, may have to use short wires to connect it to the tracks.
bigkev75
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Do you know if there is one on Amazon Eddie?
I replaced a failed one 'off board', recently, with fly leads.
Salvaged from a dead battery charger.. but I then proceeded to blow that one (due to another serious fault)!
These transformers are 'easy' to test safely, resistance-wise, which has direct correlation to the 240 to 12 step down.
Salvaged from a dead battery charger.. but I then proceeded to blow that one (due to another serious fault)!
These transformers are 'easy' to test safely, resistance-wise, which has direct correlation to the 240 to 12 step down.
bigkev75
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Not sure what I type in to search for the right transformer
The search term could be "encapsulated transformer", such as
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vigortroni...ncapsulated+transformer&qid=1611185423&sr=8-1
That one has two outputs, 2 x 6 volts, you would join the two secondaries in series to get 12 volts.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vigortroni...ncapsulated+transformer&qid=1611185423&sr=8-1
That one has two outputs, 2 x 6 volts, you would join the two secondaries in series to get 12 volts.
bigkev75
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So if it doesn’t fit on the pcb do I just run wire from old holes to this transformer? When you say in series do you mean join the two secondary pins on one side together then add wire from that to old hole in pcb and do the same for the other end (same side ) secondary pins ?
You would need to unsolder the old burned-out transformer, heating up the pins and levering under the case pin-by-pin till it comes off.
The new one will hopefully fit roughly into the same space. With short stiff pieces of solid wire you can extend the two primary pins into the original holes. Looking from the bottom side of the board, these two primary connections ( 230v AC ) are on the right.
For the two 6 volt secondaries, you would use the "upper" pin as the start, to one of the holes on the left-hand side of the board. The end of that first 6-volt winding then only gets a short wire link to the start of the second 6-volt winding. Finally the end of the second 6-volt secondary winding is wired to the other hole in the left-hand side of the board.
You need the top one in the second group of numbers, rated at 1.5VA ( Volt-Amps, same as Watts ). The Part Number is VTX-121-3015-206,
The new one will hopefully fit roughly into the same space. With short stiff pieces of solid wire you can extend the two primary pins into the original holes. Looking from the bottom side of the board, these two primary connections ( 230v AC ) are on the right.
For the two 6 volt secondaries, you would use the "upper" pin as the start, to one of the holes on the left-hand side of the board. The end of that first 6-volt winding then only gets a short wire link to the start of the second 6-volt winding. Finally the end of the second 6-volt secondary winding is wired to the other hole in the left-hand side of the board.
You need the top one in the second group of numbers, rated at 1.5VA ( Volt-Amps, same as Watts ). The Part Number is VTX-121-3015-206,
