It's not so much air bubbles, it's the fact the pump will likely just not work.
It's a basic solenoid plunger pump with weak return springs, so mount it upside down, and it just won't pump. It needs gravity to make it work correctly.
- Thread starter skotl
- Start date
It's not so much air bubbles, it's the fact the pump will likely just not work.
It's a basic solenoid plunger pump with weak return springs, so mount it upside down, and it just won't pump. It needs gravity to make it work correctly.
James1979
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They run in boats for many hours on end. Days in a few cases.
I’ve not much experience of them as such, aside from service, as they don’t really go wrong.
Ubique
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Same here, I've a couple of units that I can make a good 'un from - I know they do other versions specifically for (narrow)boat heaters, I've only seen the vehicle fit versions which have a coded-in short runtime unless you're using K-bus controllers - which is my plan... I've got a Dantherm fuel pickup pipe for 20l Jerry cans, a couple of inline pumps with the anti-pulse diaphragm, all I need now is to start the workshop build!
not done it yet
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I'm sure I still have an old Eberspacher Hydronic buried in a shed somewhere.
These heaters are pretty simple, with little to actually go wrong.
Fuel gets injected into a vaporising gauze, which is initially ignited via the glow plug during start-up, but then self-sustaining once ignition occurs (essentially the same has how model glow plug engines run).
A single motor runs a combustion and ventilation fans.
Ignition is detected via a single temperature sensor (often called a flame sensor, but it's just a thermistor) on the heater body.
They really are the simplest of things, with very little to wrong.
Biggest failures are motor failures, jammed fans, failed glow plug, or they get coked up because the combustion inlet/exhaust has been restricted, or they're only ever run at low speed.
Most manufacturers recommend replacement of the glow plug and gauze at least annually, along with a strip and decoke, and check of CO output, but I've known these heaters to run regularly for years without issues.
These heaters are pretty simple, with little to actually go wrong.
Fuel gets injected into a vaporising gauze, which is initially ignited via the glow plug during start-up, but then self-sustaining once ignition occurs (essentially the same has how model glow plug engines run).
A single motor runs a combustion and ventilation fans.
Ignition is detected via a single temperature sensor (often called a flame sensor, but it's just a thermistor) on the heater body.
They really are the simplest of things, with very little to wrong.
Biggest failures are motor failures, jammed fans, failed glow plug, or they get coked up because the combustion inlet/exhaust has been restricted, or they're only ever run at low speed.
Most manufacturers recommend replacement of the glow plug and gauze at least annually, along with a strip and decoke, and check of CO output, but I've known these heaters to run regularly for years without issues.
Cuthy246
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You would be surprised how much they put out. Have a 750w supply for my pc and that will put out 62.5amps on the 12v rail. Even a cheap 350w supply will easily put out 20 amps on the 12v rail.
Ours ran for 10 hours a day for 2 years no problem. Not bad for £80
gaz1
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you can get more out of it as ive said before
wont show video
5KW Chinese Diesel Heater exhaust heat recovery/Water heater 12v part 1
get that heat to spin in a vortex and it will create hot water
something like this
Every days a school day. I’ve got an old desktop computer that I can raid for a power supply, so I’ll have to dig it out and see if I can sort out the wires for a 12v supply.
Cuthy246
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There should be a sticker on the psu that gives its output, you can also get pinouts for all the connectors online or just open it up and cut all the wires and just hook straight to the 12v rail
not done it yet
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Agreed, but brazed - not soldered. Far better heat transfer too. It would definitely need a downwards exhaust after the heat exchanger. There would likely be a lot of condensation beyond the device, if it is effective.
Paul OCallaghan
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I've been using a self contained one for over a year in my workshop.I'm interested in your findings and mods.
I ordered a self contained remote control 8kw unit yesterday, mainly because it was cheaper than the 5kw unit of the same design/spec.....
...
PS. If it works out ok, I might buy one for the disco, a nice warm motor from the front room via remote control...mmmm.
No problems at all with it.
skotl
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I'm going to risk it, to be honest. I don't want a smelly, heavy, leaky car battery in the garage but most importantly I'll never be leaving it on its own, plus I've never had a power fault in the garage.
All told, I'm happy to take the risk - worst case is I need to buy a replacement but I don't see that being likely.
Ubique
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Just use an alarm panel battery, it'll keep it 'alive' to allow a graceful shutdown, especially if you inadvertently unplug or switch off the socket
gaz1
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the copper will melt please check your output temps there higher than you think
1,085C ?
Aye right.
This is the type of psu to get.
