2 ways. Either use a rubber hose joiner like you would with the plastic pipe, or use a compression fitting.
I wouldn't worry too much about 20° input air. John's testing was mostly on warm Aussi days where the ambient temperature was above that. He was concerned that on boost the heater was close to its overheat temperature but it didn't hit the shutdown temperature on short runs at boost. Eber specifies max 40°C input temperature but doesn't say whether that limit applies when running at boost or on a lower setting. It is probably worth being aware of but not a critical limit.I will be installing mine now when it arrives in a week or so all being well.
Exhaust taken to outside through wall.
Air intake hose and filter inside.
C02 Alarm inside the Garage.
Simples. I'm not going to be preheating the cold outside air, my garage has plenty of draughts coming in already! If my garage is 20c inside temp as some people are indicating could lead to an overheat scenario don't worry because:
A: my garage floor air will never be ay 20c or near it. More like 5 - 10c when using the heater.
B: IF the internal air temp is near 20c the heater won't be on in the first instance!
I will be addressing a couple of the main draughts though. 100mm insulation laid over the garage attic hatch and new carpet offcuts to form a draught barrier on top of my roller shutter door which is about 14 feet wide and has a good 2 - 3 inch gap along the top.
Nice
I'll keep an eye on my fuel lines to see if the Chinese Silica Gel and Tygon knockoff line lasts. If not then copper it is. I'm also planning to wrap the wiring in something in case any angle grinder sparks land on it.DAPPH would you fill us in on what the Korean manual says, as different heaters have different manuals, and I'm not sure what bit you say we've missed.
Surely you are using a CO alarm and not a CO2 one?I will be installing mine now when it arrives in a week or so all being well.
Exhaust taken to outside through wall.
Air intake hose and filter inside.
C02 Alarm inside the Garage.
Simples. I'm not going to be preheating the cold outside air, my garage has plenty of draughts coming in already! If my garage is 20c inside temp as some people are indicating could lead to an overheat scenario don't worry because:
A: my garage floor air will never be ay 20c or near it. More like 5 - 10c when using the heater.
B: IF the internal air temp is near 20c the heater won't be on in the first instance!
I will be addressing a couple of the main draughts though. 100mm insulation laid over the garage attic hatch and new carpet offcuts to form a draught barrier on top of my roller shutter door which is about 14 feet wide and has a good 2 - 3 inch gap along the top.
Make or get someone to turn up a compression adaptor & soft copper olives & cut off the bulbous bulge
it's hot.The self contained models mean you can't recirculate the heated air if the unit is outside. Unless you cut the grill out at the back.
Use google translate, Title for my manual isNice
DAPPH would you fill us in on what the Korean manual says, as different heaters have different manuals, and I'm not sure what bit you say we've missed.
i just used copper/kuniper brake line, and put a slight flare on the ends with a brake flaring tool, then just used rubber fuel hose and decent hose clamps to secure it all
How much something?Nice
DAPPH would you fill us in on what the Korean manual says, as different heaters have different manuals, and I'm not sure what bit you say we've missed.
I was indeed thinking of exhaust wrap. I'll PM you. I currently have a fairly chunky 1m long wiring harness running up the wall from the heaters to a key cabinet above that hides the pumps, controllers, and power supply. I identified the stock CDH connectors as Furukawa motorcycle connectors, bought some cheap on Ali Express, and made custom extensions. This way if a heater fails I can easily swap it out with a new one without need to splice wires or anything like that, just plug in and go. The worry I have with this setup is that now the pumps are above the heaters which seems to contravene the manual. So far it's working though, but with the warm weather I haven't run the heaters extensively enough to be sure that the lines won't fill up with air.
NO - they are 12V.
Ahh I see. Mine is just on a 3 pin plug. PSUs are less than 500w so don't need anything fancy. Only use a few amps when running normally so maybe 30 or 40w.
You are better running them flat out for most of the time. Less soot buildup inside.
I used a fused spur. Of course that may not meet regs as it's not the only fused spur on my circuit. I used a fused box with a red neon as the PSU has quite a high standby current, so I like to switch it fully off when I'm not planning to start it via remote the next morning.
The air isn't an issue, unless the pump is drawing in that much air, the air is making it to the heater.
