- Thread starter PhillipM
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slim_boy_fat
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You must have a great sense of achievement though 
PhillipM
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Yea, just a pain draining fluids and things again!
Honestly more than happy with it - even just driving it around slow to bed things in, it drives so much better than the old setup, all the work we put into the driveline, controls, new PAS system, pedals, geometry work on the uprights, etc, has definately paid off, it's so much easier and more consistant, controls are all weighted better, clutch is smooth as butter, the PID control on the idle means it's pretty much impossible to stall it even shunting about with no throttle on, etc. Steering doesn't kick anywhere near as much and is much more consistanly weighted, and the new pump keeps up better than the old Citroen/Peugeot electric setup - you can throw it from lock to lock without any sense of lag in the assistance at all.
Got some work to do on the front because it's not on the new uprights yet, just the rebuilt old ones with the new hubs and it's given the steering too much ackermann, might be a tweak on the mount points with the grinder, or might just leave it and see what it's like at full race pace when all the tyres are slipping, because I don't think low-speed full-lock understeer will be too much of an issue once you give it some beans. It's making almost twice the torque of the last engine at 2-3krpm
Honestly more than happy with it - even just driving it around slow to bed things in, it drives so much better than the old setup, all the work we put into the driveline, controls, new PAS system, pedals, geometry work on the uprights, etc, has definately paid off, it's so much easier and more consistant, controls are all weighted better, clutch is smooth as butter, the PID control on the idle means it's pretty much impossible to stall it even shunting about with no throttle on, etc. Steering doesn't kick anywhere near as much and is much more consistanly weighted, and the new pump keeps up better than the old Citroen/Peugeot electric setup - you can throw it from lock to lock without any sense of lag in the assistance at all.
Got some work to do on the front because it's not on the new uprights yet, just the rebuilt old ones with the new hubs and it's given the steering too much ackermann, might be a tweak on the mount points with the grinder, or might just leave it and see what it's like at full race pace when all the tyres are slipping, because I don't think low-speed full-lock understeer will be too much of an issue once you give it some beans. It's making almost twice the torque of the last engine at 2-3krpm
PhillipM
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And while we were at it, had a new fuel rail to replace the OE one made up by Ed, plumbing tweaked and all installed , I finished off a new bit of coil pack wiring - noticed before the OE honda connectors had cracks in 'em, sealed them years back when the loom was made, but they've been on and off so many times since they've completely cracked through - one came off in my hand while checking it!
Seems like a fairly common Honda issue fortunately so there's aftermarket replacement coil pack connectors easily available - and I made everything on the engine side of the loom in modular sections so it's easy to replace or modify bits (coils have a section, first set of injectors has another, second set another, one for cam/crank sensors, one for temp sensors, etc, etc) so I've make a new section up with new connectors.
Did a few niggly bits, we cleaned and tweaked the springs/preload on the throttle body 'cause it was sticking slightly down low when cold occasionally, and I rebuilt the 'Magic Box 'o' Sparks*' fan controller so we can run fan speed control again and reduce the power draw from the alternator to help things out until we can get the bigger alt sorted out.
That and you don't get deafened by fan noise every time the engine is running now:
Now it's even more magic, look it's sparkly and colour changing and everything:
So she's back up and running, new loom, new bearing, new fuel rail and plumbinb, exhaust leaks sealed.
Just got a bigger clutch master cylinder coming as the bite point is right at the end of the pedal travel at the minute - it works fine but it needs lifting a bit - a consequence of us using the absolute smallest cylinder we thought we could get away with, as the old floor mounted clutch pedal and 2600lb Kennedy pressure plate was a nightmare, you were going over centre with your ankle when it released and it gave you a workout.
The new setup is far smoother and far lighter than we expected so gonna trade 20% more pedal effort for shifting the bite point to a slightly more comfortable position, and I want to make some fine tuning to the mapping where vtec engages tommorow.
Seems like a fairly common Honda issue fortunately so there's aftermarket replacement coil pack connectors easily available - and I made everything on the engine side of the loom in modular sections so it's easy to replace or modify bits (coils have a section, first set of injectors has another, second set another, one for cam/crank sensors, one for temp sensors, etc, etc) so I've make a new section up with new connectors.
Did a few niggly bits, we cleaned and tweaked the springs/preload on the throttle body 'cause it was sticking slightly down low when cold occasionally, and I rebuilt the 'Magic Box 'o' Sparks*' fan controller so we can run fan speed control again and reduce the power draw from the alternator to help things out until we can get the bigger alt sorted out.
That and you don't get deafened by fan noise every time the engine is running now:
Now it's even more magic, look it's sparkly and colour changing and everything:
So she's back up and running, new loom, new bearing, new fuel rail and plumbinb, exhaust leaks sealed.
Just got a bigger clutch master cylinder coming as the bite point is right at the end of the pedal travel at the minute - it works fine but it needs lifting a bit - a consequence of us using the absolute smallest cylinder we thought we could get away with, as the old floor mounted clutch pedal and 2600lb Kennedy pressure plate was a nightmare, you were going over centre with your ankle when it released and it gave you a workout.
The new setup is far smoother and far lighter than we expected so gonna trade 20% more pedal effort for shifting the bite point to a slightly more comfortable position, and I want to make some fine tuning to the mapping where vtec engages tommorow.
PhillipM
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A little more wiring for some, rather larger injectors...IDX1050's, think we might have enough juice now?
The top fell off for a check on valve clearances:
And then a bit of manipulation to the map for the larger injectors and new dead times, etc, just to get it up and running again - back to the dyno Friday so keeping it out of boost and not pushing the rpms at all but look, it moves:
The top fell off for a check on valve clearances:
And then a bit of manipulation to the map for the larger injectors and new dead times, etc, just to get it up and running again - back to the dyno Friday so keeping it out of boost and not pushing the rpms at all but look, it moves:
PhillipM
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So, had a small issue yesterday - the alternator suddenly decided to stop charging properly, it'd sit at 11.8v at idle and 13.7v if you revved the engine - then hold 12.1-12.2 after that.
Which makes you think the regulator is shot right?
Only downside, it's pretty much a brand new alternator, but it's been on the car so long it's out of warranty.
You know what it's like here, if I can unbolt it I'll try fixing it, after a lot of swearing and hammering splitting the casing open I found the fault - two dry solder joints, great quality control there! Seems like the regulator was okay it'd just gone into a failsafe mode.
So, a bit of desoldering, cleaning and resoldering later, and a clean and check of the slip rings and brushes (and some grease in the rear bearing which was completely dry so I don't have to beat the casing for 2 hours to get it apart next time) and it was back together and holding a rock solid 14.1-14.2v even at idle.
Which is good considering it's underdriven to stop it going pop.
Way more stable than it was before so I guess it had the fault from day one and eventually just cracked out.
Windscreen is finished and nicely bonded in now, as is the GPS antenna and accelerometers for g-forces and inertial positioning (little black box on the roof)
Took it for a run and it's so much quieter with the windscreen bonded in, who'd have thought?
Which makes you think the regulator is shot right?
Only downside, it's pretty much a brand new alternator, but it's been on the car so long it's out of warranty.
You know what it's like here, if I can unbolt it I'll try fixing it, after a lot of swearing and hammering splitting the casing open I found the fault - two dry solder joints, great quality control there! Seems like the regulator was okay it'd just gone into a failsafe mode.
So, a bit of desoldering, cleaning and resoldering later, and a clean and check of the slip rings and brushes (and some grease in the rear bearing which was completely dry so I don't have to beat the casing for 2 hours to get it apart next time) and it was back together and holding a rock solid 14.1-14.2v even at idle.
Which is good considering it's underdriven to stop it going pop.
Way more stable than it was before so I guess it had the fault from day one and eventually just cracked out.
Windscreen is finished and nicely bonded in now, as is the GPS antenna and accelerometers for g-forces and inertial positioning (little black box on the roof)
Took it for a run and it's so much quieter with the windscreen bonded in, who'd have thought?
slim_boy_fat
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PhillipM
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We have a rather bad issue.
Remember that faulty bearing on the clutch/crank nose side we fixed weeks ago?
It's put pressure on the thrust bearings and wiped one out - and unfortunately, marked the crank - found it today whilst checking why there was suddenly a lot of end float. No real way to save it unless I can find some thicker thrust washers but I can't see anyone stocking anything.
Rather depressed today!
Remember that faulty bearing on the clutch/crank nose side we fixed weeks ago?
It's put pressure on the thrust bearings and wiped one out - and unfortunately, marked the crank - found it today whilst checking why there was suddenly a lot of end float. No real way to save it unless I can find some thicker thrust washers but I can't see anyone stocking anything.
Rather depressed today!
stuvy
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Machine some down?
Woody.v8
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Good luck
Okay, everything in after an insane week with some 15 hour sessions, just need to swap to the shiny gold wheels and soft tyres tommorow and load up, off to Pickering! Fingers crossed!
So what happened with these and the sinny round bit either side?If I could find some thicker ones to machine down, I would, but I'm struggling to find something. There's probably some ~3mm thick ones in another engine that could be used, most stuff uses similar designs after all, but it's finding what:
