Most of the supercharger kits for the S2k use the centrifugal type blowers so they make a lot of power, but right up by the rev limiter, this should have much more midrange.
Yeah it seemed like that on the road. I think it helped get the power down though. Even with 440bhp it never struggled for traction. He's going the turbo route now. Ive got an s80 in my garage I used it on a 4wd starlet turbo I recently sold, Good bit of kit.
Hi,
I am looking for an exciting but not too dangerous motorsport for my 19 yo son who likes to drive fast and me who likes to build and fix things.
This looks like fun! Can't face the thought of continually straightening bent Ford Escort bodywork.
What type of racing is it?
John
It's like a stage rally, but on rougher terrain - you're set off at 30s or 1 minute intervals on a stage (anywhere from 4 to 10 miles long), and compete against the clock.
Loads of time has passed and nothing happened - been busy moving workshops/houses, had half the family in hospital and a couple of break-ins at the workshop on top, but finally started going again this week:
I managed to acquire a lovely shiny working thing:
Ooops, I, err, it wasn't me, a strange bloke broke it and ran off.
Then there was an incident involving a pillar drill butchering some finely machined components, a tap, some deburrers and some extra parts. I didn't take a photo of those because of their graphic nature to anyone of a petrolheaded persuasion.
Anyway, it all got back to being shiny after some TLC and some T-cut, and I think all the important bits went back in. I'm sure it'll fine.
That bit that pinged off into the corner didn't look vital.
Trying to run an interlinked suspension system. Although I'm not 100% sure it'll work yet. So you might see the remains of Comet Penske the first time we have a hard landing.
Well, the new arm revealed one stumbling block after being cycled - the existing rear geometry gave massive toe change with the extra travel we were intent on using, and nothing beneficial either. After hearing Ed swearing about it for a while I had a look and decided to just re-do the mounting points on the car and make another new arm - I've been wanting to alter some of the rear geometery for a while, so there's really no better time than when you're making a new arm.
We've removed a little of the rear camber change, and lifted the outer pivot to help with the toe curve, which now has about half the previous toe change over the travel and what is there is helping rather than hindering now. As a side bonus that brings the anti squat up a little closer to where I'd like it, and lowers the rear roll centre which should help with a little more traction/grip.
Cheap and cheerful jig to swap the pivot location over to the other side of the car, nothing fancy but it works:
And on with the new, new arms:
It's actually made the area for transmitting load around the bumpstops and damper mounts much neater so they should end up a little lighter too, added bonus!
Should the rear wheel when the rear arms go through their full travel, stay perpendicular to the ground in all cases, or parallel depending on how you look at it? And your box section jig thingy is good enough to line the back wheels accurately enough for road use
No, otherwise they'd be leaning miles over in roll, so it's a bit of a compromise between cornering stability and straightline traction, the toe-in also changes to help the car turn in in the tight corners - but swings back to keep it stable when taking off over rolling jumps, and also toes back in again to keep the back end stable and planted under hard acceleration and landings from jumps.
The box section is close enough but if you look carefully it's also double strung with cheesewire for doing the whole car geometery front and rear, so it all matches, you can just work crosswise from the stringing then and get it as close as you can physically measure