As the title says i sprayed 2k acrylic primer today and it come out textured really bumpy and rough. Any idea why it came out like that? Ive wet sanded it down with guide coat and looks better but not perfect. Here are some pic of how it looks now. Will this be ok to paint over? Theres some spots where ive sanded primer down to the old paint too can i still paint basecoat on it? Im new to painting having only painted 1 wing before which come out good?
- Thread starter Asdama
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Someone with much better knowledge than me will answer you better. I think acrylic primer is a much thinner product for spraying on ready smooth and flatted surfaces. Whereas a high build is thicker and covers imperfections better.
Sorry I'm no expert but many on here are.
Sorry I'm no expert but many on here are.
A high build primer is intended to be flattened down after being applied, the idea is to provide a relatively thick coat that can then be sanded down and will smooth out small imperfections. Other primers are used as the name would suggest to prime a surface for later coats of paint.
ajlelectronics
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1K primer is a bit thin for a 1.8 nozzle. I would be trying a 1.3 ish and 2 bar for a conventional gun, lower for LVLP. 4 bar is way too high for anything! You are probably rippling the paint with air.
steveo3002
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as for your will it be ok to paint..you can paint over any rubbish , only you can say if its smooth as a babys bum
I'm using 2k primer not 1k. Yes i mixed as the sheet said 5/1 + 10% thinners for filling and also it said 5/1+ 20% for priming. I used 10% thinners and it did seemed thick.
I've wet sanded from 600 800 and 1000 grit it feels very smooth but can see few pin holes will this need priming again or will the paint cover it? Also is it ok to apply 2k acrylic primer over bare metal as when i was sanding my scratches there was some small area where the metal was exposed?
I've wet sanded from 600 800 and 1000 grit it feels very smooth but can see few pin holes will this need priming again or will the paint cover it? Also is it ok to apply 2k acrylic primer over bare metal as when i was sanding my scratches there was some small area where the metal was exposed?
I'm Not a pro and can't make out the exact texture you have from the photos. In my own experience I have ended up with a rough or dry finished because of Too much air and on another occasion too thin paint for the Gun. If its not like a dry rough but more a speckled rough I had it the other day and it turned out the air intake hole on the top of the paint cup was totally blocked creating a vacuum 
Ive sanded it out now with guide coat but it was more like snake skin look and not smooth/flat like paint or lacquer would go on. I did play around with the air and paint delivery but didn't make much difference. Im thinking maybe there wasn't enough thinners as it was flowing out of the gun. This is my first shooting primer so not too sure what to expect.
The gun was brand-new and i cleaned it with thinners before i used it so im sure it wasnt blocked.
What would you guys do now with this. Would you reprime it again or carry on with base coat/clear coat
The gun was brand-new and i cleaned it with thinners before i used it so im sure it wasnt blocked.
What would you guys do now with this. Would you reprime it again or carry on with base coat/clear coat
ajlelectronics
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I would flat it back with 320 grit until you can't see any imperfections, then put Lechler 29107 over the whole panel and start again.
As you seem to be a beginner, are you aware of the PPE requirements for 2K? Without air fed equipment you will be putting yourself and others in danger from airborne isocyanates, especially spraying at excessive pressures. The Lechler does not contain isocyanates and will outperform what you are laying currently.
It needs to be totally smooth before applying your colour coats.
Next time I'd suggest adding the extra 10% thinner to your final coat so it lays a bit flatter.
Then flat with 400 to get rid of the orange peel and then finish with 600 . You don't need to go beyond 600.
So if it's still rough now,go back over it with 400 and if you break through,reprime it and repeat the process
Next time I'd suggest adding the extra 10% thinner to your final coat so it lays a bit flatter.
Then flat with 400 to get rid of the orange peel and then finish with 600 . You don't need to go beyond 600.
So if it's still rough now,go back over it with 400 and if you break through,reprime it and repeat the process
Can you apply basecoat ontop of dolphin glaze once its flatten down?
ajlelectronics
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Once you reprime it, hence my advice to do it properly. You haven't commented about your breathing equipment yet?
If it's just a pinhole or 2 the basecoat will cover it, anything bigger will benefit from repriming
