Stihl repairs and restoration thread

[angellonewolf]

on another point has the keyway sheared ive heard this can do these sort of problems even a bit out fires at the wrong time causes the hard starting amoung others

 

[Kram]

150 psi is good. Is there no decompression button on it ?

Nope, 52cc shouldnt need it, my chainsaws dont need to including the 72cc g372, which has one.

All the amazon reviews say the same thing, so its likely a designed feature of the timing perhaps a bit early?
If I flick the kill switch off and back on, you can hear it fire early and stop, not good.

I read, some have a variable coil that delays ignition below idle speed.

I know you can change timing by moving the keyway slot but how do you measure it in degrees?

 

[Turbo]

Nope, 52cc shouldnt need it, my chainsaws dont need to including the 72cc g372, which has one.

All the amazon reviews say the same thing, so its likely a designed feature of the timing perhaps a bit early?
If I flick the kill switch off and back on, you can hear it fire early and stop, not good.

I read, some have a variable coil that delays ignition below idle speed.

I know you can change timing by moving the keyway slot but how do you measure it in degrees?

Any way to slot the coil mount to adjust the timing?
A friend has a 038 stihl that was a pig to start. Some have a decompression button, his didn’t. I took a look and the coil gap was slightly out. I got it set correctly and it made the starting a lot easier.

I use 2 feeler gauges, one for each half of the coil.

 

[Kram]

Any idea what gap I should be aiming for?

 

[Migmac]

Nope, 52cc shouldnt need it, my chainsaws dont need to including the 72cc g372, which has one.

All the amazon reviews say the same thing, so its likely a designed feature of the timing perhaps a bit early?
If I flick the kill switch off and back on, you can hear it fire early and stop, not good.

I read, some have a variable coil that delays ignition below idle speed.

I know you can change timing by moving the keyway slot but how do you measure it in degrees?

My 254s have decompression buttons.

 

[Turbo]

Any idea what gap I should be aiming for?

I looked up the correct gap online.

 

[dobbslc]

Had a play with my chinese combi engine today. First I ran it for a couple minutes, tho the tester box says 15, anyway the result was
View attachment 480153
Around 150psi. Thats with the tester suggested earlier in the thread - has a valve at engine end to keep the hose presssurised.
Is that acceptable for a new engine? It has not done any work yet, only a brief test of the tools, running time of under 20 minutes, so it is far from being ran in. The bore looks new and clean.

The problem with this engine is hard to start - you need to pull it hard. Less than a hard pull will suck the cord back in and hurt your arm, which shows its igniting early and sending the piston back in reverse - wont be fun up a ladder!

I'm told a fix for this is to enlarge the coil to flywheel gap. I measure it at ~0.35mm with feelers. I tried adjusting and at 0.45mm theres no difference.

Its not easy to do! Currently Im putting a feeler in the gap but the thicker feelers have a bit too much spring in them. I'll try 0.8mm tomorrow, perhaps I can find some suitable plastic.

Try pulling it over just past compression with the ignition off then switch on and give it a mighty pull. Bit like starting a big single.

 

[JOEPRO]

Business card

Yes that what I use too. Don't need anything fancy works just fine

 

[JOEPRO]

It got it tore down. It's the main bearings are badly worn and causing issues. So yet another mis diagnosis! The original Stihl cylinder is like new. The piston could be re used but has one weird scratch on it. I'm almost certain someone jammed a screwdriver in there as nothing else could have caused it. I could sand it out but I think it's best get a new aftermarket piston for it.

View attachment 478887
View attachment 478888
View attachment 478886

Some additional clues for the crank bearing issue:

View attachment 478885
View attachment 478884

Anyway in terms of parts cost, this one will be a relatively cheap fix. They also installed brand new air filters and likely charged the guy for that and their mis diagnosis.

This saw is so clean it may end up staying in my collection I'll see.

Update,

Finished this saw today. New main bearings, full seal kit, new piston and rings (not strictly required but I didn't like one small mark on the original piston) service kit, pawl, starter rope mechanism and rope + carb US clean and rebuild kit. Back up running great





Selling this one as my 2x fuel injected ones really are enough for me.

 

[JOEPRO]

Nope, 52cc shouldnt need it, my chainsaws dont need to including the 72cc g372, which has one.

All the amazon reviews say the same thing, so its likely a designed feature of the timing perhaps a bit early?
If I flick the kill switch off and back on, you can hear it fire early and stop, not good.

I read, some have a variable coil that delays ignition below idle speed.

I know you can change timing by moving the keyway slot but how do you measure it in degrees?

Is the saw still within the return period?

You'd be better to just send it back IMO and get a used branded saw with none of these issues.

 

[Kram]

Its the combi engine

https://www.amazon.co.uk/eSkde-Chainsaw-Strimmer-Brushcutter-MT52-S23/dp/B0C69MHNNL

Its not faulty, once started it runs well and I would rather do some learning. I've ordered a timing light so I can check it properly.

 

[Barking Mat]

Evening people, since yesterday my Stihl 2004 35 cm chainsaw has developed a problem, it's peeing chain oil over the base of the engine and after 10 minutes the smoke gets too much.

Rubber pipe somewhere come off or split ?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Kram]

What saw is it?
Get the bar and cover off, rinse the oil tank with a bit of petrol, drain and wipe the outside dry with a rag.

Add a little petrol or light oil and hold it bar side down and if hose before oil pump is split you will see it peeing out.

 

[Barking Mat]

What saw is it?
Get the bar and cover off, rinse the oil tank with a bit of petrol, drain and wipe the outside dry with a rag.

Add a little petrol or light oil and hold it bar side down and if hose before oil pump is split you will see it peeing out.

I can't remember what model it is, the labels fallen off recently, I'm getting oil below the exhaust muffler.

Still supplying the blade.

 

[Migmac]

Is everything oil related not under the small cover below the clutch drum. I’d guess there will be a blockage

 

[Barking Mat]

It doesn't seem to be blocked, just leaking.

Is there a rubber pipe or does the oil pass through passages in the plastic moulding ?

 

[Migmac]

I know the ms range have rubber oil lines

 

[JOEPRO]

It doesn't seem to be blocked, just leaking.

Is there a rubber pipe or does the oil pass through passages in the plastic moulding ?

Not sure about that vintage saw, but it should be easy to open up and check.

Start by removing the bar and chain and poke wire through, make sure the bar's oil feed is clear. Then there should be removable covers to inspect the oil pump and any associated plastic lines.

 

[Barking Mat]

Not sure about that vintage saw, but it should be easy to open up and check.

Start by removing the bar and chain and poke wire through, make sure the bar's oil feed is clear. Then there should be removable covers to inspect the oil pump and any associated plastic lines.

I'll get photos tomorrow, thanks.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

It's not uncommon for the muffler screws to come loose, gasket gets blown away and the exhaust gasses get thrown at the plastic crankcase/oil tank and melt it. Easy to check just pull the muffler.