Stripping car doors

[RaceDiagnostics]

OK got to it at 9 this morning. In the end it took three hours to strip and more for the filler.

I started off with the poly disc and angle grinder, all the time moving over a large area to prevent heat build up.

Then a poly wheel and die grinder for the ribbed section.

Then finished off with 40 grit on the da sander.

Looking good.

I sand blasted a couple of rusty areas.

Got some filler in but then the rain and hail started started. I decided to put some filler on first as its too cold today to spray epoxy, looks like it will be 10 or below here for the next week.

 

[ajlelectronics]

If you fill first, you will lose the benefits.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

If you fill first, you will lose the benefits.

You have got to do what you have to do.

I know the grass needs cut, that’s next.

Filler sanded.




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Sides and bottom prepped.




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[RaceDiagnostics]

Yesterday, epoxy primer on the sides and bottom as I don't have any easy way to mount the door, it weighs a ton.






...and today, two coats of epoxy primer on the door skin…




…then after an hour, three coats of high build primer.



I think this is the only area that may need further bodywork after sanding, you can see it is uneven where the light is reflected. We will see after a guide coat and some more sanding.

 

[hotponyshoes]

3 coats of high build might be a bit excessive.
The idea is it's high build so you only need one coat of it.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

As I am a relative novice at this, I follow the data sheet, Lechler LS105 data sheet says 2 to 3 coats. As I know there are imperfections, 3 coats gives a better chance to get it flat after sanding.

 

[hotponyshoes]

I expect they are saying one dust coat then another 2 coats as you can work from one side and another and end up with an overlap that's 2-3 coats thick.
Although it's called high build it doesn't want to be more than 0.25mm thick which is enough to cover sanding marks but not any imperfections.
If you can it is well worth making something to hang the door up the correct way before top coat as it going to catch a load more dust in the paint when led on its side like that, a length of wood lent against the wall at a bit of an angle with a couple of screws at the top to hook the glass channel over should do the job

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Base coat, two plus.

Then two coats of "Genrock" "Super Fast Clear".

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I just blocked the door and was able to get rid of all the low spots but I did get a few cut throughs/high spots.

Is there any point in trying to lower these or just dust over with some more primer?

 

[Dcal]

Have you rubbed right through to the steel or just the epoxy?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Through to the steel.

 

[Dcal]

I would give the whole thing a sealing coat to smooth out any remaining sanding scratches.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Did that and then gently sanded with 800 again and all is good, I put off painting for today as the warm weather is bringing out some tiny flys from the nearby fields, not sure what they are called, about 2mm line and 1/2mm wide. I'll paint in tomorrow morning when there aren't so many bugs about.

Priming the other door in the meantime, it looks much flatter.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Base coat on first thing this morning before the flies woke up.

Followed by the clearcoat. I have more orange peel than I would like, but I will be able to polish it out.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I decided to tackle the orange peel on the passenger door today.

First 1500 grit wet and dry paper.




I sanded till 90% of the orange peel was gone.





Middle section complete, I didn't bother doing the flutes at the bottom of the door.



Next a 3000 grit soft pad on the DA sander with an aditional interface soft pad.



Once sanded with the 3000 pad it looked like this.



Next the G3 polish on a rotary polisher.



Once done it looked very good, time to celebrate.




I got an almost perfect finish on the other door, I wound the fluid screw out another turn and a half and it lay down much heavier and settled out almost completely flat.

 

[Bobo]

Well done it looks good. Good info all the way through there aswell.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Its getting close, after two and a half years of restoration, I'm within a few weeks of finishing the job. Having painted the rest of the car in my garage. I have decided to get the final base and clear done on the bonnet in a paint shop, I'll strip and prime it but I want a perfect job and I can't get a perfect result in the garage, too many flies blowing in off the nearby fields. I will supply the paint so will be interesting to see what quotes I get.

If I could rent a booth that would be the best solution but I don't think there is anywhere in Scotland that would do that. Has anyone heard of a place that rents out a paint booth?

 

[stuvy]

I worked for a chap a few years back he’s called the paint shop pros. Awful name but he hires out his booth and 2 post lift

http://www.thepaintshoppros.co.uk/static-spray-booth-hire/

Top work on the paint I’d be a very happy man especially for your first attempt mate

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I saw that web site, but a bit too far to go from Dunfermline.

 

[stuvy]

We had a chap come over from jersey to do his Renault 5!