Struggling with Ali welding

[ukracer]

The tip of the tungsten is important ukR. You need to set the balance right to ensure it remains stable. (30-35% on your machine mate).
You are a better welder than you were before because your last run was night and day better than your first.

What I was tring to say was I spent hours regrinding tips thinking it was a cause of my problems but even when I touched down I could shake of the part I was welding and go again.

What I was trying to get across was if the tip is balling and falling of its not ground wrong. (Not that tips are not important) but I spent so long worrying about that I missed checking the settings.....we never changed a tip today where I would have used 6 or more in that time trying at home.

Dont suppose you have that practise piece lying around you could take a photo of. I was very consious of being late and taking up your time I forgot to take a pic

 

[Richard.]

What I was tring to say was I spent hours regrinding tips thinking it was a cause of my problems but even when I touched down I could shake of the part I was welding and go again.

What I was trying to get across was if the tip is balling and falling of its not ground wrong. (Not that tips are not important) but I spent so long worrying about that I missed checking the settings.....we never changed a tip today where I would have used 6 or more in that time trying at home.

Dont suppose you have that practise piece lying around you could take a photo of. I was very consious of being late and taking up your time I forgot to take a pic

Ahhhhhh sorry mate. Yes I see what you mean.
Yes I'll put some pics up mate.

 

[Paul.]

Well today I was very fortunate and got to pop round Pauls workshop for a little Tig tutorial, Id like to say a public massive thanks to Paul and this forum. He took time out of his day to help a total stranger and I cant thank him enough. I still have ALOT to learn but feel ive been given a push in the right direction. Its just going to be practise, practise and more practise from now on.


thanks guys

It was nice to meet you Paul, and I'm pleased that you found it useful, as you now know some of your problems were with the basic set up of the machine, once we got a 2.4 electrode a no. 8 ceramic, and a 2.4 filler in the mix it made things a lot better, I was quite impressed with the welder, its the first time I've had my hands on an R tech and would certainly consider buying one if ever my trusty Stel goes bang.
Keep up the practice, and when you are ready for another session give me a shout.

 

[Richard.]

It was nice to meet you Paul, and I'm pleased that you found it useful, as you now know some of your problems were with the basic set up of the machine, once we got a 2.4 electrode a no. 8 ceramic, and a 2.4 filler in the mix it made things a lot better, I was quite impressed with the welder, its the first time I've had my hands on an R tech and would certainly consider buying one if ever my trusty Stel goes bang.
Keep up the practice, and when you are ready for another session give me a shout.

Likewise Paul. Andy too bought round an old rtech my way yesterday which was the first time I'd ever tried one.
Not a bad machine at all to say the least.

 

[Paul.]

The only real criticism would be that the pedal is not very linear, all of the adjustment seems to be near the bottom of the pedal travel which makes it quite sensitive, although the HF fires instantly you touch it, so with the gap between the hf starting and the current coming on it makes the starts a little spluttery, hitting the pedal hard then backing off helps, I would probably replace it with a torch switch if it was mine.

 

[Richard.]

trusty Stel

One of the best AC arcs ever produced by this machine. I know a guy that has a little firm with a transtig 351 He's had many a reps through the door with demo machines. He won't part with his murex Says the modern ones ain't the same. Each to there own but he knows his welding.

 

[Richard.]

The only real criticism would be that the pedal is not very linear, all of the adjustment seems to be near the bottom of the pedal travel which makes it quite sensitive, although the HF fires instantly you touch it, so with the gap between the hf starting and the current coming on it makes the starts a little spluttery, hitting the pedal hard then backing off helps, I would probably replace it with a torch switch if it was mine.

My gripe would be the current given out isn't what's set on the dial. 120 amps on the rtec was probably like around 80 amps on my Rehm. You could deal with that I suppose it was better than I imagined it would be.

 

[Paul.]

Yes, similar thoughts, I would have liked to have the 2 machines set up side by side with the same settings and do a comparison, maybe next time...

 

[Richard.]

Hefty things as well. I was surprised by the size and weight of it.

 

[Paul.]

Hefty things as well. I was surprised by the size and weight of it.

Certainly had the feel of a proper welder, nice strong solid case, and a handle built for the job, would have liked to see the on / off switch on the front with the rest of the controls, although the one on the stel is at the back too, I never use it, the wall switch is much more accessible.

 

[Richard.]

Certainly had the feel of a proper welder, nice strong solid case, and a handle built for the job, would have liked to see the on / off switch on the front with the rest of the controls, although the one on the stel is at the back too, I never use it, the wall switch is much more accessible.

Yeah mine is also on the back. No space to fit a tiny switch on the front of mine. It's the size of 4 pint milk bottle and not much heavier than one either. Yes that handle on the rtech was certainly built to take its weight.

 

[Richard.]

All in all for a 1/3 of the price of what mine would cost it's certainly not a 1/3 of the machine. Decent set and for the cash I can understand why they are popular.

 

[ukracer]

The only real criticism would be that the pedal is not very linear, all of the adjustment seems to be near the bottom of the pedal travel which makes it quite sensitive, although the HF fires instantly you touch it, so with the gap between the hf starting and the current coming on it makes the starts a little spluttery, hitting the pedal hard then backing off helps, I would probably replace it with a torch switch if it was mine.

what does the torch switch Do?

just replace the footpedal so you get the setting on the screen all the time?

 

[Richard.]

The torch switch replaces the foot pedal in the respect you strike up with your finger rather than your foot. It doesn't allow you to control your current on the fly (in most cases) if you set 100 amps and press the switch you get 100 amps. With a pedal if you set 100 amps you get the ability to use any current you like when ever you like up to 100 amps. Both have there own advantages.

 

[ukracer]

The torch switch replaces the foot pedal in the respect you strike up with your finger rather than your foot. It doesn't allow you to control your current on the fly (in most cases) if you set 100 amps and press the switch you get 100 amps. With a pedal if you set 100 amps you get the ability to use any current you like when ever you like up to 100 amps. Both have there own advantages.

That was what I was thinking. Using pedal is good but when I have it rammed down it would be like a switch then.

 

[monkeh]

Ive not tried my pedal yet but i do use a torch switch and with up and down slope settings its very usable for controlling the puddle and heat. Im looking forward to trying out the pedal and also having a go at some Alu.

 

[Appyasme1]

The torch switch replaces the foot pedal in the respect you strike up with your finger rather than your foot. It doesn't allow you to control your current on the fly (in most cases) if you set 100 amps and press the switch you get 100 amps. With a pedal if you set 100 amps you get the ability to use any current you like when ever you like up to 100 amps. Both have there own advantages.

Better using the foot pedal.Gives you more time to control your up/down current

 

[Richard.]

That was what I was thinking. Using pedal is good but when I have it rammed down it would be like a switch then.

Yes in most cases* when you floor the pedal you are effectively getting what a switch would provide.
* some of the fancy oem torches have handles full of buttons and displays (Lorch and fronius to name a couple). These allow the user to control current with the torch switch and select different programs etc. IMO they are nothing more than a hindrance and the only thing the actually achieve is making the torch handle bigger and more cumbersome.
Trying to adjust current with up/down buttons is a chore in itself while keeping a steady hand.
Thumb wheels are a good chunk easier to adjust on the fly but again they add size to your torch handle and most people inc myself don't hold a torch with there thumb over the handle.
Single clip on buttons on slim bodied torches are the way to go for me as there is no substitute for comfort. Some times I do wonder who designs these techy torches. Certainly not welders.

 

[Richard.]

By the way. I forgot to mention on Saturday ukR. I'm sure you know already but it's best I do tell you never use that ck torch without the cooler on. It will be the most expensive bit of welding you do if you forget to turn it on.

 

[ukracer]

By the way. I forgot to mention on Saturday ukR. I'm sure you know already but it's best I do tell you never use that ck torch without the cooler on. It will be the most expensive bit of welding you do if you forget to turn it on.

cheers mate its worth reminding me. lol

p.s did you manage to grab a pic of my efforts?