Stuff you have fixed today

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I’ve used that method before, so I shall have a play again. Brundle actually supply ready bent 90’s in the same type tube I have, so I shall splice in a few of them as required.

Brundles buy them in.

When you order them, over the phone. Make sure you get a prommis if they are not 90Deg +-10% you can get a refund or a discount.
They buy them in for a price.

 

[8ob]

I bought a button riveting set so I can fix all my work jeans.

Added a decent size washer to the rivet side

 

[123hotchef]

I bought a button riveting set so I can fix all my work jeans.

View attachment 329742

Added a decent size washer to the rivet side

View attachment 329741

View attachment 329744




View attachment 329743

Is the belly getting too big

 

[dobbslc]

Nice, authentic!

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Yes, I got this.

But The glass went ping, smash tinkle.
I went Oh dear dear me.

Got some new glass.

Wicks still need some tlc.

@julianthegypsy Told you so.

 

[julianthegypsy]

View attachment 329911

Yes, I got this.

But The glass went ping, smash tinkle.
I went Oh dear dear me.

View attachment 329912

Got some new glass.
View attachment 329913

Wicks still need some tlc.


View attachment 329914

@julianthegypsy Told you so.

Beautiful. Talk about "atmospheric" lighting, it doesn't get much more atmospheric than that!

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The last and looking lonley bit of glass.

So.

I got this german Storm lantern, when I got it it had glass.

But some one broke it.

I dug it out. The glass should fit.

The thing about german storm lanters, they are metric.

The thing about English spares storm lantern parts, they are imperial.

The other thing is metal bends.

It will fit.

 

[nickk]

Have an old customer of 32 years standing,he’s passionate for his old Masseys and their implements,so I’ve repaired and replaced a few bits lately,but this one was a first,it’s from his seed drill,there’s several internally splined washers,but....they’re cast iron,neither of us wanted to dismantle the two shafts,it’s 60+ years old,so I tried cutting two spare ones in half,sliding them over the square shaft,then welding in situ,it was so difficult,a weld about 5 mm long,then had to be dressed internally!the shaft rotates and slides,needless to say one just fell apart,so decided to strip the whole assembly,then slide on the proper way,in the end quicker than my hoped for short cut,a long job,but it’s vintage so he’ll have to pay.

 

[GavJ]

I’ve used that method before, so I shall have a play again. Brundle actually supply ready bent 90’s in the same type tube I have, so I shall splice in a few of them as required.

When filling with dry sand, chap the pipe with a bit of wood and watch the sand settle, top up and repeat untill it doesnt settle any more. Heat till dull red, pause and let it soak in, heat again and bend slowly. Depending on radius you need more heat at end nearest where you pull round.. hard to explain, just an experience thing. If bend isnt uniform you can open bend, re heat where required and bend again.....

 

[Morrisman]

When filling with dry sand, chap the pipe with a bit of wood and watch the sand settle, top up and repeat untill it doesnt settle any more. Heat till dull red, pause and let it soak in, heat again and bend slowly. Depending on radius you need more heat at end nearest where you pull round.. hard to explain, just an experience thing. If bend isnt uniform you can open bend, re heat where required and bend again.....

I have nothing to get it red hot with any more. I used to have a full oxy-acetylene setup in a past life, but all that went in the big D five years ago. I’ve been playing with these pre-bent sections today, they should do the trick and save me a bunch of agro.

Just roughing out the design, while I gather bits and pieces together. A box of parts is on its way from the US, and I’m undecided whether to build my own leading link type front end, or use a stock setup off a big touring bike.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This iterm has been a pain.

First the glass shattered.
So I got a new set.

So I set it, knowing a wick needed a bit off attention.

Not to worry.

That's the longest one.

I have some wick cores. But I wanted to try a method I was told about.

Trim some bigger wicks to widths.
Then you stop the edges fraying you seal with a fine and thin coating of wax. The fit.

Shame I had to re cut the teweth on a wick gear.

New wicks, new sharp teeth and dirty glass.
Note to self.
Clean hands before fitting the glass.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This tired Mamod cam my way the other day.

It needed a lot off attention. Not from abuse. But from a lot of use and the passage of time.

In bits, more issues have come to light.

The base was split. Gas brazzing just distorted the frame. So I bribed a friend with Hob Nobs and he tig brazzed it together, dressed the dings and dents out and left it in grey primmer.

De-scalling the boiler.

All ready to rebuild.

The piston and cylinder is badly worn. But replacements of the old style are hard to find. The modern ones just don't fit.

Get the steam pipe repair wrong and it is a pain to rectify.
Get the holes in line. Pin with a small drill to keep them in line. You want the pipe applying a small amout of pressure to the flame. Heat the frame and apply solder to the pipe.
No.
2 tries and I got it right.

Rebuilt and warming through.

Bum.
A distortion. The whittness mark is not good.

In steam and running.

 

[minimutly]

I have nothing to get it red hot with any more. I used to have a full oxy-acetylene setup in a past life, but all that went in the big D five years ago. I’ve been playing with these pre-bent sections today, they should do the trick and save me a bunch of agro.

Just roughing out the design, while I gather bits and pieces together. A box of parts is on its way from the US, and I’m undecided whether to build my own leading link type front end, or use a stock setup off a big touring bike.

View attachment 329969

Leading link, you won't turn a conventional fork setup. Make one for my Vmax while you're at it?

 

[Porkypine]

View attachment 330172

This tired Mamod cam my way the other day.

It needed a lot off attention. Not from abuse. But from a lot of use and the passage of time.

View attachment 330173

In bits, more issues have come to light.


View attachment 330174

The base was split. Gas brazzing just distorted the frame. So I bribed a friend with Hob Nobs and he tig brazzed it together, dressed the dings and dents out and left it in grey primmer.

View attachment 330175

De-scalling the boiler.




View attachment 330177

All ready to rebuild.

The piston and cylinder is badly worn. But replacements of the old style are hard to find. The modern ones just don't fit.



View attachment 330178

Get the steam pipe repair wrong and it is a pain to rectify.
Get the holes in line. Pin with a small drill to keep them in line. You want the pipe applying a small amout of pressure to the flame. Heat the frame and apply solder to the pipe.
No.
2 tries and I got it right.


View attachment 330179

Rebuilt and warming through.

View attachment 330180

Bum.
A distortion. The whittness mark is not good.


View attachment 330181

In steam and running.

Nice job sir
I tried spraying the base of mine, and like most of my painting attempts, it was disastrous, so I took it off and just "blacked" the base, the firebox and the cylinder/flywheel mount bracket, on the gas stove.. It gives a sort of "olde iron" industrial look to it perhaps . Still it's an improvement on the wrecked state it was in previously

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Nice job sir
I tried spraying the base of mine, and like most of my painting attempts, it was disastrous, so I took it off and just "blacked" the base, the firebox and the cylinder/flywheel mount bracket, on the gas stove.. It gives a sort of "olde iron" industrial look to it perhaps . Still it's an improvement on the wrecked state it was in previouslyView attachment 330194

The superheated one.

Good machines.

Oh the fun of painting a Mamod.

Best I can say, from experiance is.
Get the best match you can for the colour. Ask a hundred Mamod fans for the right paint and you will get board by the amount of variations.

Strip the old paint off, with paint stripper. Go over with a wire brush in a power tool.
De grease.
De grease again.

Key with 1000 grit wet n dry.
Prime.
Let dry.
Light coat of the top coat.

Then build up.


The black is always a pain to get right.
Mamods had so many shades of black, from full gloss to matt.

Pick the one you want and get some EHT temp paint.

 

[Porkypine]

The superheated one.

Good machines.

Oh the fun of painting a Mamod.

Best I can say, from experiance is.
Get the best match you can for the colour. Ask a hundred Mamod fans for the right paint and you will get board by the amount of variations.

Strip the old paint off, with paint stripper. Go over with a wire brush in a power tool.
De grease.
De grease again.

Key with 1000 grit wet n dry.
Prime.
Let dry.
Light coat of the top coat.

Then build up.


The black is always a pain to get right.
Mamods had so many shades of black, from full gloss to matt.

Pick the one you want and get some EHT temp paint.

My plan was just paint all the painted bits black rather than bright mamod colours, i got a tin of heat resistant paint and had a go at the base, but it just looked crap, I'm hopeless at spraying anyway !
I'll probaby paint the flywheel inner bit black, but I reckon the heated steel bits look ok as is... I can always strip it down and try to paint it again in future if i fancy it.

 

[Morrisman]

Leading link, you won't turn a conventional fork setup. Make one for my Vmax while you're at it?

Telescopics worked on my Reliant, but because of the excess trail it took a fair bit of pressure to go round corners, which was good in a way as it stopped me slightly off the side. It cornered as fast as my BMW bike.

 

[Blobber]

Actually managed to achieve something today, not much but its achieving all the same! replacement bearing on a cam belt tensioner

 

[8ob]

Pulled out and repaired two more saws from the container of death, an 044 stihl and an XP390.

044 only needed a coil, blow out and a service

XP needed a barrel,piston and a thorough going through ( these XP`s are the dogs danglers of saws )

New piston in the barrel.

Ready for battle.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Pulled out and repaired two more saws from the container of death, an 044 stihl and an XP390.

044 only needed a coil, blow out and a service

View attachment 330296

XP needed a barrel,piston and a thorough going through ( these XP`s are the dogs danglers of saws )

View attachment 330295

New piston in the barrel.

View attachment 330294

View attachment 330293

View attachment 330292
View attachment 330291


Ready for battle.

View attachment 330290

We've got a pair of 353's on the farm, lovely saws, start second pull every time from cold. Occasionally first if it's warm enough and you give it some.