- Thread starter qwakers
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Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Michael Green. I read a few of his "Art Of" books yonks ago.
The Art of Coarse Sailing
Harking back to a time when most sailboats were made of…
stuvy
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That’s the one indeed was almost the entire front end off the car
On the upside Caron ceramic discs are down from £20k to £10k nowadays…
anto44
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I just went on a call out to a non starting jcb loader, starter motor is gone. Boom has to be in raised position to access starter, engine needs to be started to raise boom 
. Going to have to pull the pin on the lift ram and use another machine to lift the boom up or make up 2 link pipes and use the other machines hydraulics to lift the boom.
. Going to have to pull the pin on the lift ram and use another machine to lift the boom up or make up 2 link pipes and use the other machines hydraulics to lift the boom.
James1979
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Please refer to post 3752I just went on a call out to a non starting jcb loader, starter motor is gone. Boom has to be in raised position to access starter, engine needs to be started to raise boom
stuvy
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Is there a way to either lock the boom up or a way to tap into the hydraulics to power it from a second machine?I just went on a call out to a non starting jcb loader, starter motor is gone. Boom has to be in raised position to access starter, engine needs to be started to raise boom
anto44
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I can disconnect the pipes from the lift ram and use the second machines hydraulics to lift it with a set of link pipes that's plan b, if I can get the pin holding the lift ram to the boom out easily I'm going to lift the boom that way. We'll see what happens on Monday
stuvy
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Best of luck with it
I only helped a mate out for 6 months working on plant and I can say I enjoyed it
redlig
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Today I decided to make a start on clearing part of the garden of small tree/hedge type things .Weather perfect warm ,no wind ,sunny with just the sound of someone in the distance giving himself a coronary trying to start his chipper and accompanied by the spring scent of stale petrol. All is well with the world despite the news .
Craig-SM
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I had to do the same with the BMW F30 last weekend. Exact same problem. I’ve got the new bulb panel and waiting on a new plug to sort it out this weekend.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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On Tuesday after noon I was given a £158 motor cycle hydraulic wheeled 500 kg lifting frame FOC. ....... very similar to this one but with cheap nasty cast iron wheels
I was told it had a leaky jack . Put it in the car with my electric buggy's lifter ( handy things ) took it out with the same method dragged it on the wobbly cast iron wheels to the mancupboard and with help got it lifted onto a working height bench , me done for the day .
Yesterday I removed the jack & took it apart, main cup ram seal seems OK .. where had it leaked from ?
So I reassembled it , filled it with compressor oil as I didn't have any hydraulic oil, left it partly raised overnight . This morning most of the compressor oil had leaked out .
Mmmm ..... found it appears to have sneaked out of the pressure release piston hole area. Spent several hours online tonight looking for a 1500 pound vertical jack with a 20 mm dia ram .....seal repair kit .. can I find one .......can I F****!
Found a supposedly UK company who does sell neoprene cups in zillions of interesting sizes .. will strip it down again tomorrow and carefully measure all the seals then order them & O rings as well for any sizes I might not have .
Meanwhile I got on with trying to rectify the difficult to steer castored front cast iron wheels , spent a couple of hours trying to turn off two 0.6mm x 50 mm OD with a 20.7mmm ID clearance hole , to pack up under the bearing cups so there is less free play in the rotating bearing races.
The washers were easily done , but the final result a total failure I couldn't get the retaining circlips on with the packing washer in place .
I ended up using the parting knife to make new circlip retaining grooves in the retaining bolt bodies and use a slightly smaller imperial circlip rather than a 20 mm circlip to get them to fit well .. Think I managed a 0.4mm reduction in pin end float down from 1.2 mm ,they swivel very nicely especially as I repacked the bearing cups with a decent amount of copper grease .
Tomorrow after the strip down & measure up session I'll make some Delrin wheels and put two x one inch roller bearing in each wheel then turn up a pair of inserts for each wheel set so I can use the original wheel axle pins for each castor . Should be an interesting day as I hope to use turned brass spacer washers as well . By the time I've done all four wheels it should run freely like a castored skate board .
Even if I can't get the spares for the jack I'll still be able to get the lift pad at the highest height and be able to put the councils box for recycling glass on it . Though I'll have to lock it to a well concreted in steel post to stop opportunist thieves nicking the trolley .
I was told it had a leaky jack . Put it in the car with my electric buggy's lifter ( handy things ) took it out with the same method dragged it on the wobbly cast iron wheels to the mancupboard and with help got it lifted onto a working height bench , me done for the day .
Yesterday I removed the jack & took it apart, main cup ram seal seems OK .. where had it leaked from ?
So I reassembled it , filled it with compressor oil as I didn't have any hydraulic oil, left it partly raised overnight . This morning most of the compressor oil had leaked out .
Mmmm ..... found it appears to have sneaked out of the pressure release piston hole area. Spent several hours online tonight looking for a 1500 pound vertical jack with a 20 mm dia ram .....seal repair kit .. can I find one .......can I F****!
Found a supposedly UK company who does sell neoprene cups in zillions of interesting sizes .. will strip it down again tomorrow and carefully measure all the seals then order them & O rings as well for any sizes I might not have .
Meanwhile I got on with trying to rectify the difficult to steer castored front cast iron wheels , spent a couple of hours trying to turn off two 0.6mm x 50 mm OD with a 20.7mmm ID clearance hole , to pack up under the bearing cups so there is less free play in the rotating bearing races.
The washers were easily done , but the final result a total failure I couldn't get the retaining circlips on with the packing washer in place .
I ended up using the parting knife to make new circlip retaining grooves in the retaining bolt bodies and use a slightly smaller imperial circlip rather than a 20 mm circlip to get them to fit well .. Think I managed a 0.4mm reduction in pin end float down from 1.2 mm ,they swivel very nicely especially as I repacked the bearing cups with a decent amount of copper grease .
Tomorrow after the strip down & measure up session I'll make some Delrin wheels and put two x one inch roller bearing in each wheel then turn up a pair of inserts for each wheel set so I can use the original wheel axle pins for each castor . Should be an interesting day as I hope to use turned brass spacer washers as well . By the time I've done all four wheels it should run freely like a castored skate board .
Even if I can't get the spares for the jack I'll still be able to get the lift pad at the highest height and be able to put the councils box for recycling glass on it . Though I'll have to lock it to a well concreted in steel post to stop opportunist thieves nicking the trolley .
Last edited:
Blue Chips
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Just a little evening project to wind down with at the end of the day, accompanied by a glass or two of wine. 
Spouse is doing the guest bedroom decor in a nautical/summer camp theme, so I thought I'd contribute another item. I found a small (12 inch overall diameter) vintage boat wheel at a local antique mall. It was pretty beat up, but fixable. Four of the brass screws had gotten rusted/corroded in so solidly over the past century or so that even with heat and penetrating oil, they snapped off and had to be drilled and dug out, but I managed to do that without messing up the female threads. The old screws were already dinged up from screwdrivers and pliers in the past, and beyond repair for practical purposes, so I made replacements by rounding off some hex-head bronze screws, which ended up matching the handle profile better than the original screws. A couple of the handle ferrules were missing, so I cut new copper ferrules. Two of the handles were badly cracked, but I was able to glue and clamp them, followed by sanding and oil staining. The old cast-iron wheel center had several layers of paint that I removed before coating it with what I think is near the original color. The cable spool was in pretty good shape, so I left it alone other than wiping on some linseed oil. Total time, maybe four hours over two evenings, not counting paint drying time.
Here are several of the wheel parts after disassembly:
After restoration, and ready to mount wherever wife wants it:
Spouse is doing the guest bedroom decor in a nautical/summer camp theme, so I thought I'd contribute another item. I found a small (12 inch overall diameter) vintage boat wheel at a local antique mall. It was pretty beat up, but fixable. Four of the brass screws had gotten rusted/corroded in so solidly over the past century or so that even with heat and penetrating oil, they snapped off and had to be drilled and dug out, but I managed to do that without messing up the female threads. The old screws were already dinged up from screwdrivers and pliers in the past, and beyond repair for practical purposes, so I made replacements by rounding off some hex-head bronze screws, which ended up matching the handle profile better than the original screws. A couple of the handle ferrules were missing, so I cut new copper ferrules. Two of the handles were badly cracked, but I was able to glue and clamp them, followed by sanding and oil staining. The old cast-iron wheel center had several layers of paint that I removed before coating it with what I think is near the original color. The cable spool was in pretty good shape, so I left it alone other than wiping on some linseed oil. Total time, maybe four hours over two evenings, not counting paint drying time.
Here are several of the wheel parts after disassembly:
After restoration, and ready to mount wherever wife wants it:
Blue Chips
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Fun idea. Most kids...and some adults...would like that. I was thinking about installing a small porthole in the guest bathroom door (with frosted glass, of course), but other projects are higher on the honey-do list at the moment, like actually finishing a bathroom that I'm working on.
dobbslc
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I had a weigh in at our lads "fat club" this morning (lost 1kg) 
Then a neighbour's oil boiler wasn't working after she ran out of oil so I mooched over to bleed the pump and clean out all the dead leaves collected around the burner!!! That's now working.
I then did a service on the Surf.
Wine time
Then a neighbour's oil boiler wasn't working after she ran out of oil so I mooched over to bleed the pump and clean out all the dead leaves collected around the burner!!! That's now working.
I then did a service on the Surf.
Wine time
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This is a French Army cooking stove.
It looks robust. It isn't.
The filler cap was tight, a firm finger grip was needed. It distorted the tamk.
Oh yes the handle fell off.
There was enough solder to reuse. I added flux and a soft gas flame.
This was before I had a accident.
The heighty of the flame is adjustable, by twisting the frame.
As a cooking stove it is usless. There is meant to a frame to hold pans. I have something that is close enough to use.
@The_Yellow_Ardvark, you certainly get some unusual stuff in to repair.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Thank you.
I get to look in great shops and have got to know a lot of peaple who save stuff for me.
