The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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And?For years I worked 6.5 on none off
Boys today
- Thread starter qwakers
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Fixed, sort of...more straightened. 
The two guys making it managed to put best part of a 15mm bow in it, mainly from welding the angles on, then not knowing what to do to sort it, i got pulled on to it to sort it for them.
Bit of clamping, and strategic flame straightening here and there...
Sat on the floor after, all lasered in about +/- 1mm.
If you've ever done much with stainless you'll know it can be a pain to keep straight.
100*5 stainless box.
The two guys making it managed to put best part of a 15mm bow in it, mainly from welding the angles on, then not knowing what to do to sort it, i got pulled on to it to sort it for them.
Bit of clamping, and strategic flame straightening here and there...
Sat on the floor after, all lasered in about +/- 1mm.
If you've ever done much with stainless you'll know it can be a pain to keep straight.
100*5 stainless box.
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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I mean with all the welds on one side it was destined to warp. Pre bend to pull straight with the welds best way to prevent it?Fixed, sort of...more straightened.
The two guys making it managed to put best part of a 15mm bow in it, mainly from welding the angles on, then not knowing what to do to sort it, i got pulled on to it to sort it for them.
Bit of clamping, and strategic flame straightening here and there...
Sat on the floor after, all lasered in about +/- 1mm.
If you've ever done much with stainless you'll know it can be a pain to keep straight.
100*5 stainless box.
View attachment 385336
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- England
Yeah, exactly.
Smaller box is much easier to do that with, like 50*.
Starts getting tricky on heavier stuff.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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The simplist method is to heat opposite side to where you've welded, not always that simple mind.
So if you weld a T shape, out of 50mm box section for example, heat up the top corners of the T, opposite the welded areas to straighten it up. Keeping the heat to the corners of the box helps do it gradually or the side face will distort and look a mess.
So if you weld a T shape, out of 50mm box section for example, heat up the top corners of the T, opposite the welded areas to straighten it up. Keeping the heat to the corners of the box helps do it gradually or the side face will distort and look a mess.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Bet that takes some practice.
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- England
I'd probably run a weld or two along the back edge opposite the fillet before it's cooled, and hit them off with a fibre disc once the lot has cooled.
Obviously this may not be acceptable in certain circumstances.
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Easy to make a good mess!
Brad93
Member
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For any heat straightening to work there has to be one of the following:
1.) enough stress/tension in the welded assembly to resist expansion
2.) the weight of the component provides enough tension to resist expansion (unlikely unless you're welding 50mm plate)
3.) external forces (i.e. clamping) resists the expansion and forces the material to deform
Box section / frames / plate weldments have enough stiffness to resist expansion, therefore heat straightening normally works on them without any external clamping.
Flat plate however can wander all over the shop, it will expand and then just contract back to its original dimensions.
What you need to do is form a deformation on the surface, by restricting expansion.
When the whole lot cools and contracts, the deformation contracts more, and pulls the part straight.
1.) enough stress/tension in the welded assembly to resist expansion
2.) the weight of the component provides enough tension to resist expansion (unlikely unless you're welding 50mm plate)
3.) external forces (i.e. clamping) resists the expansion and forces the material to deform
Box section / frames / plate weldments have enough stiffness to resist expansion, therefore heat straightening normally works on them without any external clamping.
Flat plate however can wander all over the shop, it will expand and then just contract back to its original dimensions.
What you need to do is form a deformation on the surface, by restricting expansion.
When the whole lot cools and contracts, the deformation contracts more, and pulls the part straight.
I made the back bumper and rack for my first trike out of stainless tube of various diameters. It pulled horribly. I had to reheat with a big propane torch and pull it back. Then repolish it. It turned out ok in the end.
The big 110 KW 3 phase generator that I use for my Induction Furnace:
I do regular start up tests as it's not used that often and we've had heavy frosts recently which aren't good for batteries. Started up like a champ on the button but after about 10 seconds the Deep Sea 3110 controller shut it down on over voltage - tried several times and it was repeatable. Now this happened several week ago and the 'fault' just went away - well it was back!
Suspecting condensation, and suspecting the AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator card) as it's about the only thing that can create an over voltage I un-clipped it's ventilation covers (The AVR lives inside the alternator fed from it's own little alternator with rotating diodes - quite sweet really). Sure enough the wiring and underside of the PCB were wet.
A quick warm up with the workshop heat shrink blower and we're back on track. I left the generator running for a while with the cover off to hopefully disperse the moisture, but it needs a fair run on a heavy load to really warm it up.
I do regular start up tests as it's not used that often and we've had heavy frosts recently which aren't good for batteries. Started up like a champ on the button but after about 10 seconds the Deep Sea 3110 controller shut it down on over voltage - tried several times and it was repeatable. Now this happened several week ago and the 'fault' just went away - well it was back!
Suspecting condensation, and suspecting the AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator card) as it's about the only thing that can create an over voltage I un-clipped it's ventilation covers (The AVR lives inside the alternator fed from it's own little alternator with rotating diodes - quite sweet really). Sure enough the wiring and underside of the PCB were wet.
A quick warm up with the workshop heat shrink blower and we're back on track. I left the generator running for a while with the cover off to hopefully disperse the moisture, but it needs a fair run on a heavy load to really warm it up.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Another believer in wonders of yellow paint, the best colour.
Or color, for you.
I was on the phone to America last week, spelling out an email address, I used 'full stop', he was lost, sorry I mean 'period'.
British English / American English.
Erie Fred
Member
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It's Rust oleum "Safety Yellow", and gallons of the stuff can be purchased anywhere, so it's easy to get matching paint later on.
This was my first time using hardener, and I did like the results.
Blobber
Member
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Nice generator!
