Stuff you have fixed today

[Barking Mat]

Ah, it's nice to see a fellow member of the Leftover Parts Club. I suspect that a lot of us are members, whether we admit it or not. I'm OCD enough that if I find a leftover part, I can't rest until I tear everything down again and install it in its rightful place. A couple of weeks ago, I overhauled the carb of my portable generator. After I got it all back together and reinstalled on the engine, I walked back into the shop and spotted two small O-rings lying on the bench where I had been working, which prompted a string of oaths as I brought the generator back into the shop and started tearing the carb off. About that time, spouse walked in and said that she had been cleaning out the kitchen 'junk' drawer and found a couple of O-rings, which she brought out to the shop and placed on the work bench.

BTW, the generator runs great, and it came in handy during our recent power outage.

I had a good friend strip her rear brakes on a Merc 308 or similar, to change the seals. She put all the bits in a bucket to not get lost.

Overnight someone as a joke added a handful of random bits.

Ooph.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Overnight someone as a joke added a handful of random bits.

They being......?

 

[MattF]

They being......?

I think we all know who the rotter was.

 

[Brad93]

This is the pump that came out of the cooler.

View attachment 431541

The pump and front housing are one piece.

View attachment 431543

View attachment 431542

Anyone have any idea how this comes apart?
I don't think the impeller will come out the front and there bound to be seals and throwers out the back that I'll probably wreck if I just press it off.
I could tap the holes in the impeller and make a puller to get it started?

Impeller after a quick clean up.

View attachment 431544

that's what i'd call a simarco pump

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Saturday night, after a few beers I found a water leak.

Traced it to the bath room, under the bath.

The hot water isolator, 22m, was leaking. but not from the compression joints. but from the screw fixing valve.

So yesterday, got a new one and one for the 1/2" pipe

Drained the system and fitted both.

 

[Cobbler]

I had a good friend strip her rear brakes on a Merc 308 or similar, to change the seals. She put all the bits in a bucket to not get lost.

Overnight someone as a joke added a handful of random bits.

Ooph.

Someone? … You bad boy, Mat,

 

[JOEPRO]

Saturday night, after a few beers I found a water leak.

Traced it to the bath room, under the bath.

The hot water isolator, 22m, was leaking. but not from the compression joints. but from the screw fixing valve.

So yesterday, got a new one and one for the 1/2" pipe

View attachment 431658

Drained the system and fitted both.

I would have removed them permanently. They are not required and are a weak point.

If the bath ever needs to come out or needs a tap seal replaced then drain the system. It's an unnecessary convenience having stop valves on everything until they start to leak like yours did. In my house I have eliminated as many of them as possible for less chances of leaks developing in the future.

 

[MattF]

They are, however, convenient to have. Far easier than fannying around draining everything.

 

[dobbslc]

I use Peglar ball valves as those little ones always leak.

 

[JOEPRO]

They are, however, convenient to have. Far easier than fannying around draining everything.

Convenient for sure its just been my personal experience that they leak long before they ever became useful as the vark found out.

 

[Nomad]

Welded up a snapped hinge on the laptop screen, now working fine again.
It’s the second hinge I’ve had to fix like this, same problem on an identical laptop a couple of years ago.

 

[Moose McAlpine]

Put a new flywheel in the Sprinter yesterday. Of course it started raining halfway through. Under the van was fine, but my feet sticking out the sides got quite wet.

 

[Maker]

Anyone remember this time last year I acquired a brand new, not working coffee grinder? I dismantled it, tested a few components, decided I was out of my depth and left it in pieces on the healing bench. Well today I channelled my inner CuriousMarc, probed a few more components, then I spotted it;

View attachment 430824

Burnt track after D7. Bridged with a bit of TCW, an hour wrestling the case back together and it's good as new.

View attachment 430825

I'm assuming the track was damaged from the factory rather than another fault drawing more current than the track can handle, its not the thinnest part of the track so it would have burnt somewhere else if that were the case.

Would you believe it, I told the friend who bought the grinder originally that I'd managed to fix it, and he tells me the new one gave up the ghost a couple of weeks ago!

He's had it refunded under warranty luckily, and we've just swapped, so he's got a working one again and I've got another one to fix...


Different problem this time, it runs but not at a constant speed, it pulses fast then goes all slow and laboured in-between pulses. It didn't take much prodding and poking to find a 0.33uF polyester capacitor measuring 90nF. All I've got to hand are axial leaded 0.15uF caps, rather than wait for the right part I just hot snotted a pair of those down so I can get it back together today.



I somehow managed to pull four pads off the board desoldering another capacitor on the other side of the board, so I've made a bit of a pigs ear of the soldering to stick it back down. I also managed to pick up the board while it was plugged in, that f-ing hurt.

I don't think it's likely that another fault would degrade a capacitor, it think it was just a Chinese crapacitor. Having said that I won't be surprised to find it stops working in a few weeks.

So that's two I've repaired now. If anyone's in the market for a coffee grinder, I'd suggest steering well clear of the Wilfa Svart. Supposedly designed in Norway "With a focus on design, quality, safety and innovation", but I'm pretty confident it's just whitelabel imported skip fodder. There's a sticker on that PCB and on the motor, "FCG1317", Google that and it brings up the original machine, for the equivalent of about 64 quid.

 

[Dcal]

that's what i'd call a simarco pump

It came apart no issue.
I tapped the impeller M5 and made a simple puller.

The bearings are cheap so two SKF 6201zz ordered.
Be interesting to see if it runs again and more importantly, if it quieter. (Has to be)

The replacement pump is not putting up any pressure but it works, sort of, so I'll use it for now and have another look when I try out the original pump.
It might have an inbuilt bypass or relief valve but it did look awful simple.

 

[Brad93]

It came apart no issue.
I tapped the impeller M5 and made a simple puller.

View attachment 431966

View attachment 431965

View attachment 431967

The bearings are cheap so two SKF 6201zz ordered.
Be interesting to see if it runs again and more importantly, if it quieter. (Has to be)

The replacement pump is not putting up any pressure but it works, sort of, so I'll use it for now and have another look when I try out the original pump.
It might have an inbuilt bypass or relief valve but it did look awful simple.

I've not had one of those apart i'm afraid, only the procon type. Like you say fairly simple. rotary seal, bearings, impeller

 

[RichardM]

@Dcal are they marks on the body where the impeller has been rubbing?

 

[Brad93]

Would you believe it, I told the friend who bought the grinder originally that I'd managed to fix it, and he tells me the new one gave up the ghost a couple of weeks ago!

He's had it refunded under warranty luckily, and we've just swapped, so he's got a working one again and I've got another one to fix...


Different problem this time, it runs but not at a constant speed, it pulses fast then goes all slow and laboured in-between pulses. It didn't take much prodding and poking to find a 0.33uF polyester capacitor measuring 90nF. All I've got to hand are axial leaded 0.15uF caps, rather than wait for the right part I just hot snotted a pair of those down so I can get it back together today.

View attachment 431959

I somehow managed to pull four pads off the board desoldering another capacitor on the other side of the board, so I've made a bit of a pigs ear of the soldering to stick it back down. I also managed to pick up the board while it was plugged in, that f-ing hurt.

I don't think it's likely that another fault would degrade a capacitor, it think it was just a Chinese crapacitor. Having said that I won't be surprised to find it stops working in a few weeks.

So that's two I've repaired now. If anyone's in the market for a coffee grinder, I'd suggest steering well clear of the Wilfa Svart. Supposedly designed in Norway "With a focus on design, quality, safety and innovation", but I'm pretty confident it's just whitelabel imported skip fodder. There's a sticker on that PCB and on the motor, "FCG1317", Google that and it brings up the original machine, for the equivalent of about 64 quid.

How did you test the capacitance whilst still on the board?

 

[Dcal]

@Dcal are they marks on the body where the impeller has been rubbing?

Yes, it was rubbing slightly on the back faces, but it doesn't look like the vanes were touching.
The machining is pretty rough so it might be ok.

The, shaft has 0.01mm runout (or my lathe has) so I don't think it's bent but there's some damage where the seals runs.

The bearings were truly shot so for a £10 it worth seeing if I can revive it.
I didn't order C3 bearings, just standard clearance, I don't know if that was the right choice.

 

[Brad93]

Yes, it was rubbing slightly on the back faces, but it doesn't look like the vanes were touching.
The machining is pretty rough so it might be ok.

View attachment 432133

View attachment 432134

The, shaft has 0.01mm runout (or my lathe has) so I don't think it's bent but there's some damage where the seals runs.

View attachment 432135

View attachment 432136

The bearings were truly shot so for a £10 it worth seeing if I can revive it.
I didn't order C3 bearings, just standard clearance, I don't know if that was the right choice.

You wont need C3 for that. The shaft wont get hot with water running through the pump head

C3 is just increased internal clearance for if your bearing is being compressed in the housing due to the interference fit/shaft expanding inner ring due to interference fit or heat generated during operation requireds greater clearance for correct running in normal working conditions.

 

[Dcal]

You wont need C3 for that. The shaft wont get hot with water running through the pump head

C3 is just increased internal clearance for if your bearing is being compressed in the housing due to the interference fit/shaft expanding inner ring due to interference fit or heat generated during operation requireds greater clearance for correct running in normal working conditions.

That was my thinking too.

I think the standard bearings have tighter clearances when cold which should suit this application.