Stuff you have fixed today

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This hot air engine was apig from day one.

I got it running, but very badly.
Until it seized and bent and broke many parts.

Every part in this images is bent or seized.

My last try, but it ran, but very clunky, until it locked up, again.

One of the many repairs, a split.

Apart from the baad welds, this was the standard I was dealing with.

The screw threads are all but striped. When the cylinder got hot. It would bind on the edges, bowing the walls inwards, impleading the piston.

After all repairs done, this is post steam.
And the start of the tear apart.

After degreasing and cleaning, here we see the parts drying.

In paint.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Part 2.

If this image could talk.
The bearings were removed, freed up and lubricated. The pivot points were honed to fit.

The fly wheel was also treated to new bearings, The piston assembly was cleaned and new seals.

All most there, Just have to drill out to align the cylinder and piston assembly to the frame.

 

[octo0072000]

Flywheel looks like a singer sewing machine part

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Flywheel looks like a singer sewing machine part

It does, do you know why?
Because it is one.

 

[DAPPH]

Flywheel looks like a singer sewing machine part

Ditto .

 

[qwakers]

the plasterboard at the end of my workshop fell down quite some time ago due to damp issues caused by the massive open hole in the floor whilst i was building my pit. ive finally gotten around to sorting that out..

 

[Mart63]

Our Ender 3 Max Neo at work. Thought it wouldn't extrude because the nozzle was blocked. Changed the nozzle and the Bowden Tube (Fitted a blue Capricorn Tube) Still wouldn't extrude. Turned out there was a wire off the front fan causing heat creep and a blockage in the heat break tube.

 

[sako243]

Don't know whether this should be in the stuff you've broken or fixed...

Finally got the hub and bearing out of the Range Rovers hub. Popped back and used my neighbours press as it's table was better suited for this job than mine. Went to press out the hub from the bearing and there was a small bang at 7t and balls went a flyin. Inner race was seized to the hub's stub shaft and came with it. Ah well, I was probably going to replace it anyway after this about of faffing.

Then managed to remove this reasonably large 4" circlip and then pressed out the other half of the bearing. Now to cut off the inner race, clean everything up and reassemble.

We did try heating the race and cooling it to shatter it with his Oxy setup setup but he was running low on Oxy so didn't succeed in getting it hot enough.

 

[mark roberts]

Started taking this hardinge lathe to bits to change the bearings in the saddle, I'm sure I took pics but cant find them.

 

[sako243]

The battle has finally been won! Time to clean it all up, paint it and start the reassembly process.

 

[indy4x]

@sako243 judging by the blown plastic box in the corner of the picture it looks like you have the same Chinese made hydraulic pullers as me

Has it had much use yet? Done a few easy jobs with mine and so far it's been OK but not given it a serious workout

 

[sako243]

@sako243 judging by the blown plastic box in the corner of the picture it looks like you have the same Chinese made hydraulic pullers as me

Has it had much use yet? Done a few easy jobs with mine and so far it's been OK but not given it a serious workout

It's been invaluable in a couple of jobs because of the "tooling" but I'd have said the 10t rating is ambitious. Potentially a fine threaded bar to match the pullers would exert as much force.

I had a gear to remove from my old ride on mower and the bearing splitter was used for that. Similarly the pullers have been used because they're just better built than the typical screw thread ones.

I tried pulling a seized pulley off an old topper box and destroyed one puller (the hydraulic bit) but a replacement was £22. I made a plate like LRs special tool for using the puller to push out the hub and it failed. Took it to the neighbours press and according to the gauge it took 7t to blow the bearing apart. Hence the ambitious 10t.

I think I might keep an eye out for a proper Sykes Pickavant cylinder bit going cheap as they're all the same thread. I don't use it enough to justify a new one but if one comes up cheap it'll probably actually achieve the 10t.

Mate has borrowed it as well for pulling bearing from a tractor gearbox shaft.

 

[AKN]

It's been invaluable in a couple of jobs because of the "tooling" but I'd have said the 10t rating is ambitious. Potentially a fine threaded bar to match the pullers would exert as much force.

I had a gear to remove from my old ride on mower and the bearing splitter was used for that. Similarly the pullers have been used because they're just better built than the typical screw thread ones.

I tried pulling a seized pulley off an old topper box and destroyed one puller (the hydraulic bit) but a replacement was £22. I made a plate like LRs special tool for using the puller to push out the hub and it failed. Took it to the neighbours press and according to the gauge it took 7t to blow the bearing apart. Hence the ambitious 10t.

I think I might keep an eye out for a proper Sykes Pickavant cylinder bit going cheap as they're all the same thread. I don't use it enough to justify a new one but if one comes up cheap it'll probably actually achieve the 10t.

Mate has borrowed it as well for pulling bearing from a tractor gearbox shaft.

I have the same kit in a different coloured box. Blew the hydraulic ram bit and got a seemingly more robust one from Cromwell (Zoro) for not much.

 

[Brad93]

It's been invaluable in a couple of jobs because of the "tooling" but I'd have said the 10t rating is ambitious. Potentially a fine threaded bar to match the pullers would exert as much force.

I had a gear to remove from my old ride on mower and the bearing splitter was used for that. Similarly the pullers have been used because they're just better built than the typical screw thread ones.

I tried pulling a seized pulley off an old topper box and destroyed one puller (the hydraulic bit) but a replacement was £22. I made a plate like LRs special tool for using the puller to push out the hub and it failed. Took it to the neighbours press and according to the gauge it took 7t to blow the bearing apart. Hence the ambitious 10t.

I think I might keep an eye out for a proper Sykes Pickavant cylinder bit going cheap as they're all the same thread. I don't use it enough to justify a new one but if one comes up cheap it'll probably actually achieve the 10t.

Mate has borrowed it as well for pulling bearing from a tractor gearbox shaft.

Them same grease based rams from sykes are rated 8 ton i believe, but im dubious that those actually make 8 ton. When you go up to the hydraulic SKF/Kukko/FAG type, that are rated 10 and 12 ton, you actually get that amount of force, and you can shift a bearing very quickly.

 

[T5 TDI]

Don't tell me, with a removal service included?

I once saw a sign written van with 'Acme Boob Handling' on the side. They would handle the removal job.

 

[sako243]

Them same grease based rams from sykes are rated 8 ton i believe, but im dubious that those actually make 8 ton. When you go up to the hydraulic SKF/Kukko/FAG type, that are rated 10 and 12 ton, you actually get that amount of force, and you can shift a bearing very quickly.

Well out of curiosity I've been doing some calculations to see whether it's feasible.

This website https://roymech.org/Useful_Tables/Human/Human_strength.html suggests that the typical max torque that a human can apply to a 300x20mm bar is ~477Nm.

The force applied by a bolt is given by: Bolt Force (kN) = Torque (Nm) / Diameter (mm) * k where k is typically 0.15 for an unlubed bolt. So assuming an M10 thread being screwed into the top of the cylinder (roughly what mine is) then we get ~318.2kN of force being applied by the bolt to the top of the master cylinder. 10 metric tons of force is equal to ~98kN of force from the slave cylinder.

Even without the advantage of hydraulics a typical M10 bolt can theoretically exert enough force to apply 10t of force. Making a long thin master cylinder and a fat wide slave cylinder we have hydraulic advantage resulting in less effort required on the screw thread. A 2:1 ratio of cylinder radii would result in a 4:1 hydraulic advantage, 3:1 -> 9:1 as so on. You lose "travel", i.e. you wind in the thread 100mm you might only get 1mm on the output but that's true anyway.

So I think it's perfectly feasible. Hydraulics are a wonderful thing.

 

[T5 TDI]

I once saw a sign written van with 'Acme Boob Handling' on the side. They would handle the removal job.

Apologies, this ended up in the wrong place! It was supposed to be a reply about wired bras in the funnies section!

 

[Barking Mat]

So following my chainsaw failures story, I lent it to my colleague who diagnosed scored piston and lack of compression (joy).

He leant me one, it has loads of compression, second time I started it, the starting pull handle came off in my hand.

10 mins on YouTube, 10 mins on the chainsaw, all sorted.

 

[Beeezer]

So following my chainsaw failures story, I lent it to my colleague who diagnosed scored piston and lack of compression (joy).

He leant me one, it has loads of compression, second time I started it, the starting pull handle came off in my hand.

10 mins on YouTube, 10 mins on the chainsaw, all sorted.
View attachment 430069
Sought after saw that is..

 

[cheb]

Rewired the plant room/airing cupboard light. It's now usefully bright in there, previously it would have been considered a bit dark even for a romantic tryst.

A 1200mm LED batten from Toolstation and not a 40W equivalent CF bulb.