- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
magnet
Member
- Messages
- 1,369
Thanks for that Matt its got no name on it and i was wondering what make it was.
Melvyn Best
Member
- Messages
- 1,589
- Location
- Cambridge
Not today and I took no photos but helping a mate out earlier last week he had a 2008 VW Polo with a central locking fault and the passenger’s electric window would not work from the drivers side switch. All wiring looked OK , the faults turned out to be caused by a faulty drivers side window motor , once replaced the central locking and drivers side switch worked as they should.
dobbslc
Member
- Messages
- 12,153
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
I've had this Sealey impact wrench for about 3 years given as a birthday present and it's always been pretty crap! I couldn't really say anything so just suffered it thinking it's how it's meant to be
Lately it's been playing up badly and last weekend just about stoped completely so I thought I'd take it apart for a look...
All the main battery wiring looked ok but this little connector fell off in my hands.
I think it was spot welded to the PCB so I thought nothing to loose and soldered it back on.
I think it's far faster than it ever was although I haven't checked it on a wheel nut yet but it's lost the speed control, it's an Ugga Dugga so why does it need speed control?
Sealey sell a whole new PCB for about £30 if it goes wrong again.
Lately it's been playing up badly and last weekend just about stoped completely so I thought I'd take it apart for a look...
All the main battery wiring looked ok but this little connector fell off in my hands.
I think it was spot welded to the PCB so I thought nothing to loose and soldered it back on.
I think it's far faster than it ever was although I haven't checked it on a wheel nut yet but it's lost the speed control, it's an Ugga Dugga so why does it need speed control?
Sealey sell a whole new PCB for about £30 if it goes wrong again.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,984
- Location
- France, Brittany.
Having just done my tyres, exhaust next on the list, it's noisy.I fixed this as well but discovered the poxy back box is also rottenView attachment 473060View attachment 473061
I did the front anti roll bar bushes well I was under it covered in crapp.
I think they did alright for 28 years old!
View attachment 473063View attachment 473062
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,147
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
render finished. not bad for my first ever go.a scratch coat put on the wall edge to take the render, might take a couple more coats in the middle.... and the joints and edges of the slabs filled with coloured mortar.
not much more work to it now before i can start putting block down...
had some mix left over so sorted out next doors wall and fitted a capping stone from my demolished wall
and a trailer load of permeable block paving collected.
ready to lay block!
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,629
- Location
- UK
The wife bought a strange light fitting for our bedroom about 20 years ago. It has 7 bendy arms with G4 bulbs at the end. Originally it came with halogens, but about 5 or 1p years later replaced them with LEDs. But there was a snag, the 12v driver didn't fire up until you hit 20W, as many halogen transformers do. So I left one halogen in to take it over the 20W until I got around to replacing the driver.
So about 10 or 15 years later, I decided to fix it. I knew it was dim and occasionally flickering because of the temporaey bodge.
I couldn't find a circular driver over 15W. With 7 x 2W LEDs, that's a bit close to the limit so I opted for a none circular 20W driver. I would have gone a bit higher but then it wouldn't have fitted in the base.
After trimming off some excess plastic, it fits in the base, just. I gave it a good clean and test on the kitchen table as our bedroom ceiling is really high, I had to get the scaffy tower out to get to it.
I'm a couple of LEDs short, I thought I had plenty but they turned out to be the old Halogens that I put back in the old LED boxes years ago doh!
But it's a lot brighter now and doesn't flicker. When i bought some more LEDs, I noticed quite a lot of reviews mention they don't work or flicker, I wonder how many are using Halogen drivers.....
So about 10 or 15 years later, I decided to fix it. I knew it was dim and occasionally flickering because of the temporaey bodge.
I couldn't find a circular driver over 15W. With 7 x 2W LEDs, that's a bit close to the limit so I opted for a none circular 20W driver. I would have gone a bit higher but then it wouldn't have fitted in the base.
After trimming off some excess plastic, it fits in the base, just. I gave it a good clean and test on the kitchen table as our bedroom ceiling is really high, I had to get the scaffy tower out to get to it.
I'm a couple of LEDs short, I thought I had plenty but they turned out to be the old Halogens that I put back in the old LED boxes years ago doh!
But it's a lot brighter now and doesn't flicker. When i bought some more LEDs, I noticed quite a lot of reviews mention they don't work or flicker, I wonder how many are using Halogen drivers.....
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,731
- Location
- Going Away.
Not fixed, but given a small restoration.
A set of Avery butter scales.
The biggest issue was the decades of fat, lard and butter clogging up the moving parts.
So, it was boiled in a big pan with washing soda.
take the cover plates of, one at a time. The brass inner bearing is tuned to suit that location.
It is pain the find the correct location if you mix them up.
Cleaned up, balanced and a set of Avery weights.
A set of Avery butter scales.
The biggest issue was the decades of fat, lard and butter clogging up the moving parts.
So, it was boiled in a big pan with washing soda.
take the cover plates of, one at a time. The brass inner bearing is tuned to suit that location.
It is pain the find the correct location if you mix them up.
Cleaned up, balanced and a set of Avery weights.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,731
- Location
- Going Away.
This came my way, i got a new charger for it.
All seamed to be good.
But Yesterday when it was needed, it was not as good as I felt it should be.
When I opened it up the battery was from 208, on a charger made in 2022.
so a bttter one was fitted.
I know this one is years old, but I know it is good.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,731
- Location
- Going Away.
One Tilley Iron.
Complete, but in need of some TLC.
It is advised not to dismantle theses as most of the seals etc are Asbestos. I new this one was solid.
New cup washer, NRV cleaned and new seals.
Preheater going, fuel on "meths.", takes about 2 to 4 minutes to get fully warm.
The heater is now very hot.
It does a good job on clothes.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,731
- Location
- Going Away.
This Gremlin Civil Defence 1951 Storm Lantern was mine for a few pennies.
First job is to bin the wick. It will be rotten.
Wick gear, wick cover was given a good clean.
Before.
After.
The rust was stabilised and this is how it will be left.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,731
- Location
- Going Away.
Sad, unloved 120Belows camera was got for spares.
But.
It has an unusuale Glass plate viewer, so we set to work.
Despite the damaged, the bellows are light tight, so we got some leather food into them.
the shutter has two functions, instant and self timed.
All I had to do was to remove the old, unwanted grease. Then set the springs and it was good to go.
This odd Ensign box camera just needed the shutter fixed.
More leather food, it drank it like a Matelot In Gib.
Getting it open. If it is tight, take time. Any deforming of the frame, case will allow light in.
The shutter was seized, as some one was very generous with bearing grease.
It had gone rock hard.
All working.
120mm Film on order.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,731
- Location
- Going Away.
The yellow item LHS is a Magazine safety torch.
But opening it up, showed the Red and green NATO style batteries had leaked. Meaning the metal was corroded.
In this case the small cheep american clips had failed, acid had eaten them away.
I know they were american, as I found a manual on them, the clips were a know weak point.
Washed out with clean distilled water, then allowed to dry.
Then washed with Meths to remove any remaining water.
The broken contacts were replaced with a wire bodge, it works, it is out of sight.
New batteries and away we went.
But opening it up, showed the Red and green NATO style batteries had leaked. Meaning the metal was corroded.
In this case the small cheep american clips had failed, acid had eaten them away.
I know they were american, as I found a manual on them, the clips were a know weak point.
Washed out with clean distilled water, then allowed to dry.
Then washed with Meths to remove any remaining water.
The broken contacts were replaced with a wire bodge, it works, it is out of sight.
New batteries and away we went.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,731
- Location
- Going Away.
Two 1930 German Steam toys.
They needed a clean.
They have been well played with.
They are Tin plate, no bearings, so the holes are badly worn.
Not much can be done with out messing up the aged look.
Out of sight, a PTFE bush was made to fit.
This is the engine, Josef Falk 1930 vertical engine is used to power them.
Just a new seal was needed.
Nice smooth running action, with very nice sound.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,232
- Location
- NE London - UK
I have one of those. One of their factories used to be at the top of my road.
