Stuff you have fixed today

[Dr.Al]

Rotors and stators are usually, in my experience, used to describe the parts in alternators. It's a funny old world.

Rotors are the rotating parts of motors which, in the case of a permanent magnet DC motor, include the shaft, the armature (the bit with the windings on) and the commutator body. Stators are the stationary parts of motors which, in the case of a permanent magnet DC motor, include the magnets and the brushes. On a brushless permanent magnet motor, there's no commutator or brushes (that bit is done electronically), the armature is on the stator and the magnets are on the rotor.

 

[Edward Teach]

The newer style are insulated on half the length of the neutral and live on the plug pins.

They are insulated now, to stop 'The Butter Knife' shorting the pins, when prising the plug, out of the tight, single socket extension lead, going to my Mothers 60's stereo record player.
How would I know this, as an 11-12 year old,
I've never forgotten

 

[Dcal]

Not today but last week, I "fixed" a door stop.
I made it for my daughter a while ago out of a log.
I know it's mostly wood, so shouldn't be on here, but there is metal and fire involved in the fix so I think it's allowed.



Anyway, turns out it had a serious design flaw and it would not function as intended. (The door closer spring just slid it on the wood floor.)
I stuck a bit of rubber to the bottom but it still couldn't keep the door open.

As increasing the coefficient of friction didn’t work, I needed to try something else and as I can do nothing about gravity I went for increasing the mass.
To that end, I drilled out the base and hollowed out the centre on my metal lathe (People that are careful of their machine tools should look away now) but in my defence I did vacuum the chips away as they came off and cleaned up straight away,



The added mass came from some scrap lead melted in a stainless measure with a propane torch.



I placed the lead in layers and let it cool between pours to keep control of the heat.
I also used a few wood screws as reinforcenebt,



The tape is to seal a bad crack, which just adds character (or that's my excuse)



The handle is a curtain ring, an oetiker clamp silver soldered to an 8mm self-tappter and a stainless mudguard washer.



I'm told it now works as intended.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Not today but last week, I "fixed" a door stop.
I made it for my daughter a while ago out of a log.
I know it's mostly wood, so shouldn't be on here, but there is metal and fire involved in the fix so I think it's allowed.

View attachment 289932

Anyway, turns out it had a serious design flaw and it would not function as intended. (The door closer spring just slid it on the wood floor.)
I stuck a bit of rubber to the bottom but it still couldn't keep the door open.

As increasing the coefficient of friction didn’t work, I needed to try something else and as I can do nothing about gravity I went for increasing the mass.
To that end, I drilled out the base and hollowed out the centre on my metal lathe (People that are careful of their machine tools should look away now) but in my defence I did vacuum the chips away as they came off and cleaned up straight away,

View attachment 289933

The added mass came from some scrap lead melted in a stainless measure with a propane torch.

View attachment 289935

I placed the lead in layers and let it cool between pours to keep control of the heat.
I also used a few wood screws as reinforcenebt,

View attachment 289936

The tape is to seal a bad crack, which just adds character (or that's my excuse)

View attachment 289937

The handle is a curtain ring, an oetiker clamp silver soldered to an 8mm self-tappter and a stainless mudguard washer.

View attachment 289938

I'm told it now works as intended.

If you like the crack.
Drill a holecatveach end and fill with a color wax or resin.

It will continue to spread if you are not carefully.

 

[Dcal]

If you like the crack.
Drill a holecatveach end and fill with a color wax or resin.

It will continue to spread if you are not carefully.

Thanks Vark, now it's "fit for purpose" I can sort out the crack.
Would 2k lacquer work? Or should i use a clear epoxy or PU casting resin?

 

[bigegg]

Thanks Vark, now it's "fit for purpose" I can sort out the crack.
Would 2k lacquer work? Or should i use a clear epoxy or PU casting resin?

PU resin doesn't bond so well in my experience, better off forking out for the Pixy resin.

 

[nickk]

New auxiliary belt and tensioner on my van,had to cut down a short Swinborne extension to more shorter!

 

[DSR]

Not all today but I finished it today.

I started with this (it cost me £5.00 from an auction - nobody wanted it and the auctioneer started at a tenner and went down, I chipped in with a fiver expecting it to start but nobody else bit and I got it.) :-

It went through this :-

Also a belt linisher to clean the blades up and a lick of paint on the small parts and the body :-

To end up with this :-

After a bit of tweaking of the blade clearance I was well pleased with how it cut some test pieces :-

The red is 1.5mm, the next blue is part of an old up and over garage door that you can see the shear was working as a brake/folder - this was the 'before' picture and the four bottom bits are some of the same door after the rebuild when I was testing blade clearance.

Now if only I could get it to switch between shear/folder mode automatically

You can still buy these - they're about £100 inc. VAT - I don't know if they are exactly the same - this was all Whitworth threading, I suspect the current model will be using metric. The bolts were well worn and I probably should have gone and bought new but that's a project for another day.

 

[The Artilleryman]

Not a lot today, just bolted this to the floor & sorted the sticky stop button (neoprene boot split and dragging), only problem was I had to move my Tom Senior so I could get behind to do up the bolts.

 

[Wedg1e]

Not all today but I finished it today.

I started with this (it cost me £5.00 from an auction - nobody wanted it and the auctioneer started at a tenner and went down, I chipped in with a fiver expecting it to start but nobody else bit and I got it.) :-
View attachment 290548View attachment 290549

It went through this :-
View attachment 290562View attachment 290563
Also a belt linisher to clean the blades up and a lick of paint on the small parts and the body :-
View attachment 290564View attachment 290566

To end up with this :-

View attachment 290568View attachment 290569
After a bit of tweaking of the blade clearance I was well pleased with how it cut some test pieces :-
View attachment 290570

The red is 1.5mm, the next blue is part of an old up and over garage door that you can see the shear was working as a brake/folder - this was the 'before' picture and the four bottom bits are some of the same door after the rebuild when I was testing blade clearance.

Now if only I could get it to switch between shear/folder mode automatically

You can still buy these - they're about £100 inc. VAT - I don't know if they are exactly the same - this was all Whitworth threading, I suspect the current model will be using metric. The bolts were well worn and I probably should have gone and bought new but that's a project for another day.

Looks near-identical to the Peddinghaus I have; it was leaning against a skip and I asked if I could have it... Superman couldn't have opened and closed the van doors quicker

 

[bricol]

Looks near-identical to the Peddinghaus I have; it was leaning against a skip and I asked if I could have it... Superman couldn't have opened and closed the van doors quicker

Fished a couple out of skips a while ago. Flogged one, kept the other. Someone had bodge welded a length of across the underside so it can be clamped in a vice to use - which does make it easy to get out and use, then put back out of the way.

 

[jsf55]

Bodged a chair repair as i couldn't get it too split apart and the 'low' setting was pants !

 

[4String.]

Finally got round to fitting the woodworking vice that I got from @roblane65 . Before:


An hour later after 2 pots of tea and much sawing, chiselling, and violent swearing:



Have to have a trip to the great metropolis tomorrow as I'm out of suitable screws, then crack on and make some wooden jaws.

 

[MattF]

Bodged a chair repair as i couldn't get it too split apart and the 'low' setting was pants !
View attachment 290666

Bodged would be a compliment for that. But, if you're going to do something..., & you've definitely done that with style.

 

[roblane65]

Finally got round to fitting the woodworking vice that I got from @roblane65 . Before:

View attachment 291583
An hour later after 2 pots of tea and much sawing, chiselling, and violent swearing:

View attachment 291584

Have to have a trip to the great metropolis tomorrow as I'm out of suitable screws, then crack on and make some wooden jaws.

looking good

 

[Arc Tourist]

Extended the length of my carpenter tool belt. It seems to have shrunk during covid lockdown.

 

[Onoff]

My oil boiler with a Riello boiler has been playing up and locking out for a while.

It's now like Trigger's Broom!

Back in February when it was playing up I fitted a new pump, new capacitor & new filter. It was better (less lockouts) until the last couple of days. I set the pump pressure back in Feb with a pressure gauge.

Today with my BiLs help fitted new bearings either end of the motor. The old SKF bearings took some getting off. They were 6202-2RS1/CNPLHT23. Tbh they didn't seem too bad once out...

The new, unbranded eBay ones pretty much slid on. I ended up nipping the motor shaft ends in the knurled vice jaws then putting the new bearings on with a bit of medium strength thread lock.

All back together and not missing a beat! (I rechecked the cap whilst stripped down). No more lock outs so far.

However...there's a background annoying, underlying buzz/whine that rises and falls. Maybe the cheapo bearings?

Tbh, in where the photocell was pretty dirty, though the photocell was clean (I've checked it a few times). Hoovered all that out and cleaned all the internal faces with a dry toothbrush.

Did find the plastic coupling that goes between the pump and motor a bit worn as well so a new one ordered.

Maybe I should have just cleaned in there and tried with the old bearings!

 

[Brad93]

I’ve done a short YouTube video of the mixer spiral I repaired a few weeks back.
The shaft is holding up a month or so down the line. Customer snapped the chain two weeks ago so he might be overloading the machine. He has this week bought a second smaller mixer to lighten the load.

 

[8ob]

Not really fixed but fixing because they sent out the wrong bearings ,resume on Monday .
267 × 200

Chipper bearings gone at 500 hours so going to convert them to greaseable.

This is one the same I converted in 2016 to greasable, not been a moments trouble. Removed the shaft for inspection today

 

[Brad93]

Not really fixed but fixing because they sent out the wrong bearings ,resume on Monday .
267 × 200

Chipper bearings gone at 500 hours so going to convert them to greaseable.

View attachment 291612View attachment 291610

View attachment 291613

Sealed bearings don’t last 5 minutes

edit: well 30,000 minutes lol