- Thread starter qwakers
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Brad93
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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You could made the gears if you had a dividing head.
Looks good for ninety quid, what size is the chuck?
Brad93
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4"You could made the gears if you had a dividing head.
Looks good for ninety quid, what size is the chuck?
Brad93
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It's had no oil in it, and then it's rusted in the universal shaft section.
Most everything is okay.
The sight glass is slightly damaged, my fault I tapped a shaft too far. I've ordered a replacement thrust bearing that is rusted to oblivion.
The taper roller bearing has obviously been running dry but appears in perfect condition. I try and reuse that.
I've just cleaned all the housing out and started ultrasonic cleaning a few bits. Hopefully get it all back together for testing tomorrow.
Most everything is okay.
The sight glass is slightly damaged, my fault I tapped a shaft too far. I've ordered a replacement thrust bearing that is rusted to oblivion.
The taper roller bearing has obviously been running dry but appears in perfect condition. I try and reuse that.
I've just cleaned all the housing out and started ultrasonic cleaning a few bits. Hopefully get it all back together for testing tomorrow.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I've hopefully repaired my ultrasound tank, time will tell.
About a year ago it started tripping the RCD, I took it apart to see what was going on and the PCB was soaked, there was a pinhole in the tank.
Looking closely, there's hundreds of tiny pits. I've never had any proper ultrasonic fluid, I just use whatever's handy, usually MucOff or G101 but sometimes caustic soda, brick acid, etc. I assume once something has etched the surface the roughness creates nucleation sites and cavitation bubbles start drilling through the tank.
I hosed off the circuit board and left it to dry in the conservatory for a few months. I was thinking about lining the tank with epoxy but last night Robin Renzetti put a video on Instagram showing a repair of a vibratory tumbler with hot glue. I've already got hot glue so it's not gonna cost anything and should be easier to peel off when it doesn't work.
I didn't bother with a glue gun, just warmed the whole thing up with a hot air gun and melted glue sticks directly against the surface until I had a reasonably uniform coat across the whole bottom of the tank.
The finished product, as far as I can tell there's no holes in the glue but I didn't go up the sides and there are some pits still exposed, I should really coat the walls too.
I ran it for a while without fitting the circuit board in case it leaked straight away. I also put a piece of foil in to check it's still ultrasounding properly, I was a bit worried by making the tank heavier I'd mess up any impedance matching the transducers and tank may have, it seems to be fine though, that picture is after half an hour, I think the foil is suitably destroyed.
After a couple of hours, the surface of the glue is unchanged and it still seems well attached to the tank, aside from this small bubble in one corner. There appears to be water under it, I can move it around a little but I can't push it out, can't see how it got in either.
I'll update after it's had a bit of use in anger, or it fails, whichever come's first.
About a year ago it started tripping the RCD, I took it apart to see what was going on and the PCB was soaked, there was a pinhole in the tank.
Looking closely, there's hundreds of tiny pits. I've never had any proper ultrasonic fluid, I just use whatever's handy, usually MucOff or G101 but sometimes caustic soda, brick acid, etc. I assume once something has etched the surface the roughness creates nucleation sites and cavitation bubbles start drilling through the tank.
I hosed off the circuit board and left it to dry in the conservatory for a few months. I was thinking about lining the tank with epoxy but last night Robin Renzetti put a video on Instagram showing a repair of a vibratory tumbler with hot glue. I've already got hot glue so it's not gonna cost anything and should be easier to peel off when it doesn't work.
I didn't bother with a glue gun, just warmed the whole thing up with a hot air gun and melted glue sticks directly against the surface until I had a reasonably uniform coat across the whole bottom of the tank.
The finished product, as far as I can tell there's no holes in the glue but I didn't go up the sides and there are some pits still exposed, I should really coat the walls too.
I ran it for a while without fitting the circuit board in case it leaked straight away. I also put a piece of foil in to check it's still ultrasounding properly, I was a bit worried by making the tank heavier I'd mess up any impedance matching the transducers and tank may have, it seems to be fine though, that picture is after half an hour, I think the foil is suitably destroyed.
After a couple of hours, the surface of the glue is unchanged and it still seems well attached to the tank, aside from this small bubble in one corner. There appears to be water under it, I can move it around a little but I can't push it out, can't see how it got in either.
I'll update after it's had a bit of use in anger, or it fails, whichever come's first.
Brad93
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Is it aluminium? That will be your issue with g101
Stueeee
Old git
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My very last repair to our piece of carp GTech Air Ram cordless Vac. We've had it several years now, a couple of years ago, our neighbour's chucked their identical model out with what turned out to be a stripped tooth belt on the beater drive. So, naturally I took charge of it and have been cannibalising it for bits as the beaters on ours chewed themselves up, the beater bearings went, the on/off switch failed, and today's piece de resistance, the motor burnt out. So it now has the motor from the neighbour's cleaner with the transmission off ours as well as the other bits already fitted. This has to be one of the most fiddly pieces of gear I've ever had to mend, loads of flimsy plastic mouldings, self tapping screws into plastic that is pretty much 'one time' in terms of assembly/dis-assembly. Anyway, for the moment it's working again. I think the next household vac will be a Henry.
My garage Vac was used to extract the worst of the dust and carp that was in every nook and cranny of the Gtech.
My garage Vac was used to extract the worst of the dust and carp that was in every nook and cranny of the Gtech.
Brad93
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Helped @pressbrake1 with a shaft. Clive will do the final machining. I quickly knocked it back to 60.2mm which leaves a quick skim and a polish with some fine emery to blend the toes to 60.00mm for a new bearing. No pictures as it was getting Late.
Grease hole was slightly problematic, even after cleaning with acetone. I should of ultrasonic cleaned it but we got there in the end, plugged the hole and started again.
Picking some different powders up tomorrow, fuse and spray rather than Rototec powders.
Grease hole was slightly problematic, even after cleaning with acetone. I should of ultrasonic cleaned it but we got there in the end, plugged the hole and started again.
Picking some different powders up tomorrow, fuse and spray rather than Rototec powders.
slim_boy_fat
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You've missed the point completely, you're not supposed to mend these things but buy another to keep the Company owner in the manner to which he's become accustomed.
Knocked this up over a couple of nights, need to take the surface of the bottom of the carriage on the Town Woodhouse build. The cutter needs to get under the inverted dovetail.
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...and-cnc-conversion.110396/page-6#post-1934081
The shaft is an old metro driveshaft, right diameter for the large 40 int clarkson. The rest I had lying around. Need to put some angles on the hss bit and then try it.
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...and-cnc-conversion.110396/page-6#post-1934081
The shaft is an old metro driveshaft, right diameter for the large 40 int clarkson. The rest I had lying around. Need to put some angles on the hss bit and then try it.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I have fixed the security on my workshop. No pics for obvious reasons but hopefully it will take the scrotes a little while longer to get in.
Arc Tourist
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A box of tissues.
Wife asked me to fix this. Couldn't find the stapler, so used the next best option.
Won't tell you what she said.
Wife asked me to fix this. Couldn't find the stapler, so used the next best option.
Won't tell you what she said.
JMS1972
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Had a whoopsie moment today and dropped a gearbox cover. Of course it landed on the most fragile part. 
It's some sort of bronze and quite thin section at the point of breakage.
After chamfering the edges I placed a square of silver solder on the top and in the bore hoping gravity would be my friend.
Mug (for scale) of boiling soapy water to get rid of most of the flux.
Filed out the hole and cleaned up with a drill.
Peen over end. To hold in place.
We will never mention this again
It's some sort of bronze and quite thin section at the point of breakage.
After chamfering the edges I placed a square of silver solder on the top and in the bore hoping gravity would be my friend.
Mug (for scale) of boiling soapy water to get rid of most of the flux.
Filed out the hole and cleaned up with a drill.
Peen over end. To hold in place.
We will never mention this again
