- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Ongoing pole barn preparation starting last summer,base preparation,just dirt floor,the spoil was levelled in front as a flood defence,the base threshold will be 2” under at highest(35year observance) flood height,the spoil may eliminate this 2”.
I made and galvanised 400mm stubs to bolt the telegraph poles to,these will be concreted in to a datum,drilled the lowest of 3 holes in each pole with the gutbuster as I only had a m/t bit long enough,all my flat bits are 140mm . Next process to hoist the poles into an oil drum,max capacity 3,so I’ll leave them to soak until they’re in the way,then do the next 3. Watch this space for more progress.
I made and galvanised 400mm stubs to bolt the telegraph poles to,these will be concreted in to a datum,drilled the lowest of 3 holes in each pole with the gutbuster as I only had a m/t bit long enough,all my flat bits are 140mm . Next process to hoist the poles into an oil drum,max capacity 3,so I’ll leave them to soak until they’re in the way,then do the next 3. Watch this space for more progress.
What’s brave ?
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,661
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Finally, (it's been bugging me for ages, trying to figure a proper spot where it'll fit), got the Pollard up on a bench. Had to chop half the upper rack off to make space though, and alter/extend the lower rack slightly too.
No more sitting or kneeling in front of it now.
No more sitting or kneeling in front of it now.
finyuk2005
Member
- Messages
- 732
Ha ha that was my first thought too!, looks a beast!
Bloody hell that's a bit tidy, do you fancy painting my 12ax ?
Is the hood on that fiberglass?
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,661
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Bloody hell that's a bit tidy, do you fancy painting my 12ax ?
Is the hood on that fiberglass?
I think it's some type of alloy.
I thought mine was at first, but definitely some sort of thick fiberglass, odd as the rest is pretty battleship, but the fiberglass hood is as well I suppose.
Might paint mine in the future, but it's a big bugger with the pedestal and too much grey/blue original paint looking ok and would need filling nd a lot of prep if I did.
Yours looks cracking in green
flat or v belts?Changed over the front o/s window regulator assembly on SWMBO's old 206. Got some 6mm rivets and bought a s/hand assembly off eBay. Of course it was very slightly different! Hole centres were about 10mm differentOnly apparent when the old one came off and I could properly compare. Some hammering and redrilling ensued. All rivetted back in and working a treat.
View attachment 391346
Next on the list was the n/s rear beam axle that the trailing arms hangs off of. The wheel had a wobble. The inside needle roller was as rusty as. The outer one not as bad but still breaking up Only did it a couple of years ago. The problem is the shaft is worn at the top from about 9 to 3 o'clock.
Currently waiting for the cut down sliver of tuna tin I've Araldited on, to set. I'll then grind off with a Dremel and feather with emery cloth. Really wants a complete new rear axle.....
View attachment 391347
Rebuilt a couple of 205 axles that use a similar silly design. Not sure I'd want to use your solution, if the epoxy fails & the shim gets loose the swinging arm could suddenly go solid maybe causing an accident.
To cure this properly there is really only one solution, press in new stub pins. There are companies who machine down the pins & fit a sleeve but they are not much cheaper than a new pin & they wear out quicker.
When you are fitting new bearings only use premium brands, the ones in the cheap kits on ebay don't have as many rollers & wear much quicker. You can also fit a grease nipple in the gap between the bearings & annually pump some grease into it. That will help keep out the water that gets in past the very poor grease seals.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,755
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
I get what you're saying but the tailing arm is like a hollow box section. The grease would surely migrate to there rather than getting to the bearings?
This looks like the easiest option:
Peugeot 206 Hatchback refurbished rear axle
Peugeot 206 Hatchback refurbished rear axle
www.imaxle.co.uk
We're on the second refurbished 206 rear axle in about 5 years here, I think the first one lasted about 2 years and the second ones still going.
Mind you the Mrs was using it for auto testing and thrashing it around muddy fields, so maybe a slightly unfair comment on the quality of the first refurbished one.
Easy enough to swap though and hardly worth the effort of getting the old one apart for the cost of a reconditioned one.
Mind you the Mrs was using it for auto testing and thrashing it around muddy fields, so maybe a slightly unfair comment on the quality of the first refurbished one.
Easy enough to swap though and hardly worth the effort of getting the old one apart for the cost of a reconditioned one.
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
- Messages
- 17,993
- Location
- East Yorkshire
TIG Rod holder.
top is folded 1.2. bottom a bit of 4mm checker lurking in the corner. Floplas 40mm solvent weld pipe and a straight connector as the lid, using knock in bungs for the top and bottom. Just fired up a 24yr old Dell running XP pro. to print out the lables.
top is folded 1.2. bottom a bit of 4mm checker lurking in the corner. Floplas 40mm solvent weld pipe and a straight connector as the lid, using knock in bungs for the top and bottom. Just fired up a 24yr old Dell running XP pro. to print out the lables.
