- Thread starter God mode restorations
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DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I like that machine... back to selling my body ............ again . How much will I need for a machine like yours ?Made some pretty pictures… successful motor and controller test of my Lowrider CNC build. Went and picked up a lump of MDF that’ll be the baseboard when I get to work on it next. Should be capable of everything my current one can do but now the working area is 1m x 2.4m
View attachment 391120 View attachment 391121
Full self build inc/ printed parts or parts purchased and you assembled it ?
Nice job, ever considered an orbital welder?
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
- Messages
- 1,277
full self build, all sourced from Amazon or aliexpress
Controller 100
stepper motors 30
belts and pulleys 20
3D printed parts 60 (3 rolls of PLA)
25mm pipe 30 (less if you use galv conduit)
wiring 20
router 50
nuts bolts and bits 30?
wood bits 30
stepper motors 30
belts and pulleys 20
3D printed parts 60 (3 rolls of PLA)
25mm pipe 30 (less if you use galv conduit)
wiring 20
router 50
nuts bolts and bits 30?
wood bits 30
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
- Messages
- 1,277
mines 250x250 and everything fitted, you’d need to check. It was designed originally to cut full sheets so yes it’ll do that no problem.
You need to be realistic about what it can do, and how fast, but it’s a lot of fun. (‘scuse the mess)
Theres some good images of what it’s capable of on their forum.
You need to be realistic about what it can do, and how fast, but it’s a lot of fun. (‘scuse the mess)
Theres some good images of what it’s capable of on their forum.
Sergei Slovenija
Member
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- 1,267
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- Slovenija Ljubljana
It's a one-time job and my job is self-employed. I will make 2 sets of triple boilers by hand. I read a guide on orbital welding, the technology is cool, but not this time. A band saw, a band grinder, a measuring tape, a laser level, a little tig welding and a ball of spaghetti straightens out.
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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Low loader re build isa coming along blasted and paint going to fit new air lines and Hyd pipes New racks for chains and ratchet straps then the deck installed 4 sockets for upstands when loaded with pip.
Had to cut out all X members due to rust
Had to cut out all X members due to rust
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,755
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Changed over the front o/s window regulator assembly on SWMBO's old 206. Got some 6mm rivets and bought a s/hand assembly off eBay. Of course it was very slightly different! Hole centres were about 10mm different 
Only apparent when the old one came off and I could properly compare. Some hammering and redrilling ensued. All rivetted back in and working a treat.
Next on the list was the n/s rear beam axle that the trailing arms hangs off of. The wheel had a wobble. The inside needle roller was as rusty as. The outer one not as bad but still breaking up Only did it a couple of years ago. The problem is the shaft is worn at the top from about 9 to 3 o'clock.
Currently waiting for the cut down sliver of tuna tin I've Araldited on, to set. I'll then grind off with a Dremel and feather with emery cloth. Really wants a complete new rear axle.....
Only apparent when the old one came off and I could properly compare. Some hammering and redrilling ensued. All rivetted back in and working a treat.Next on the list was the n/s rear beam axle that the trailing arms hangs off of. The wheel had a wobble. The inside needle roller was as rusty as. The outer one not as bad but still breaking up Only did it a couple of years ago. The problem is the shaft is worn at the top from about 9 to 3 o'clock.
Currently waiting for the cut down sliver of tuna tin I've Araldited on, to set. I'll then grind off with a Dremel and feather with emery cloth. Really wants a complete new rear axle.....
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,054
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Oh my Oh My! that has really grasped my brain cell/s & imagination . Had a look at the link of, " Who Done It " amazing stuff indeed .
Need to engage rear end and get the new man cupboard's foundation slab sorted , the two GRP enclosures purchased & erected afore I can get going on my LR . project .
Do you have lots of pictures of you builds and any advice ? T'would be nice to have my head filled with useful stuff well before hand .
Dave .
About to go almost silent on Mig - Welding whilst I immerse my head & body into builds , sourcing's and money .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,054
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Been making almost 300 bottomless seed growing tubes out of 1 & 1/2 inch domestics waste pipe . each finished tube is 91 mm long . I've been using 60 of them since 2006 . Usually using the same tube at least 8 times a year , so I'm now well into saving money every time they get used instead of endlessly buying plastic pots which use more compost.
Initially I cut them to 95 mm on the band saw to keep waste to a minimum but not being tightest of bandsaws the cut face tends to be a few degrees off square a lot of the time , I want the tubes to easily stand on end so they take up less room in the growing trays as space is a6ta premium inthe glashouse ..
Had to think how I could use my 1" head stock bored spindled lathe to face the turn each end with as nice rounded edge internally & externally , as previous experience taught me that these unsmoothed rim edges can be exceedingly rough on the fingers & thumbs when filling the tubes with compost .
Tried making a set of cones to get the tun=bes near to parallel for tuning at each end but that was not a safisfactroy route as I had to keep adjusting hte saddle travel and do a lot of measuring each tube made .
Came up with the idea of a self expanding spool ... 12 mm shorter than the tubes. So when in place on the lathe & expanded I could consistently cut one end square and using a ground up file smooth the external rim and using the hook shaped end smooth the internal rim edge. whilst it's spinning in the lathe. The prototype spook was made out of scrap Delrin but I put too many slots in it . The live tail stock bearing I made worked well till it got warm then it seized solid un-beknown to me and it got so hot it melted one end of the spindle wrecking it entirely .
Discovered that the cone end of the live centre had bottomed in the carrier once it got under pressure, so heated up and cause it to swell even more till it stuck solid . I used a bit of old hydraulic ram to turn it up so didn't notice it wasn't rotating for a fair while .
I'd measure the bore hole but for got to allow for the bottom of the drilled hole in the carrier being a cone .
When I bore measured it I'd obviously measured it at the deepest depth and so had the edge of the cone shaped hole foul the spindle of the centre when it was assembled . 
I also discovered that the head of the live centre was also 2 thou bigger than the outside edge of the inner race of the sealed bearing so this also added to heat generation .
Sorted that by taking it apart cuting of 6 mm off the tail of the cone head & putting a waist on the cone at the bearing face there was clearance at the inner race edges.
Lessons learnt the new spindle was turned out of a block of expensive 60 x 60 a 75mm purchased Aluminium ( left over from a pervious project some 15 yrs ago ) turned to 30 thou smaller in diameter than the tubes internal size . took a while to mark drill & cut the slots & holes , had to put it in a bucket of cold water three times as it got too hot to handle with bare hands .
Managed to drop the production time from 4 min 12 sec to just under 2min 10 seconds . Nice when you are doing 300 of them , plus I have the gear for further production runs if needed .
Initially I cut them to 95 mm on the band saw to keep waste to a minimum but not being tightest of bandsaws the cut face tends to be a few degrees off square a lot of the time , I want the tubes to easily stand on end so they take up less room in the growing trays as space is a6ta premium inthe glashouse ..
Had to think how I could use my 1" head stock bored spindled lathe to face the turn each end with as nice rounded edge internally & externally , as previous experience taught me that these unsmoothed rim edges can be exceedingly rough on the fingers & thumbs when filling the tubes with compost .
Tried making a set of cones to get the tun=bes near to parallel for tuning at each end but that was not a safisfactroy route as I had to keep adjusting hte saddle travel and do a lot of measuring each tube made .
Came up with the idea of a self expanding spool ... 12 mm shorter than the tubes. So when in place on the lathe & expanded I could consistently cut one end square and using a ground up file smooth the external rim and using the hook shaped end smooth the internal rim edge. whilst it's spinning in the lathe. The prototype spook was made out of scrap Delrin but I put too many slots in it . The live tail stock bearing I made worked well till it got warm then it seized solid un-beknown to me and it got so hot it melted one end of the spindle wrecking it entirely .
Discovered that the cone end of the live centre had bottomed in the carrier once it got under pressure, so heated up and cause it to swell even more till it stuck solid . I used a bit of old hydraulic ram to turn it up so didn't notice it wasn't rotating for a fair while .
I'd measure the bore hole but for got to allow for the bottom of the drilled hole in the carrier being a cone .
When I bore measured it I'd obviously measured it at the deepest depth and so had the edge of the cone shaped hole foul the spindle of the centre when it was assembled . I also discovered that the head of the live centre was also 2 thou bigger than the outside edge of the inner race of the sealed bearing so this also added to heat generation . Sorted that by taking it apart cuting of 6 mm off the tail of the cone head & putting a waist on the cone at the bearing face there was clearance at the inner race edges.
Lessons learnt the new spindle was turned out of a block of expensive 60 x 60 a 75mm purchased Aluminium ( left over from a pervious project some 15 yrs ago ) turned to 30 thou smaller in diameter than the tubes internal size . took a while to mark drill & cut the slots & holes , had to put it in a bucket of cold water three times as it got too hot to handle with bare hands .
Managed to drop the production time from 4 min 12 sec to just under 2min 10 seconds . Nice when you are doing 300 of them , plus I have the gear for further production runs if needed .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,054
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
The finished tubes have a 10 mm thick ex exercise mat closed cell foam disc with a 3 mmm hole in the centre pushed into the bottom of the tube as a temporary base .. this comes away when the grown plant is removed from the grow tube .. had to make my own designed pad cutter & base profile that self- ejected the cut discs once they had been cut out on the drill press by the dozen . The pad cutter and base for it was also made 15 years ago , the base simply drops into the anchoring slots on the drill press table .& the cutter is fitted in the press chuck so it cuts the base of tube discs cleanly as it rotates .
MattF
Forum Supporter
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