I had that issue on one I made a while back but thickened the ears up on this one.you may find like i did recently, mild steel makes an absolutely useless spanner. And the ears just keep bending out ways.
Nice. How did you cut that profile? Rotary table or something fancy?A 65 mm flogging spanner to undo the end caps of some hydraulic cylinders on my JCB 3CX
Thanks to @James1979 for sending me a .DXF file and @Pete. for donating the 9 mm plate cut from the webs of RSJ's I believe (which were covered in the most intractable paint. Two top layers came off with Methylene Chloride but the primer needed a stripping disk !(
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If I looked at the other posts I should have figured that out myself. Thanks.@6ply CNC Plasma table
yes i had to mill the ears due to taper but knew the cutter would cut the part undersize allowing a bit of material removalYes Brad I had your spanner in mind as I was doing it. The hex that it engages with isn't very wide however re-inforcement on one side would be OK.
Frankly my cut quality on this plate is bad with too much taper - I need to sort my settings out better - I'm usually only cutting 1.2 - 3 mm sheet. I may end up running a bead of weld down the contact faces and grinding back to flat
Just saw your video about the CNC table of yours and it's problems.yes i had to mill the ears due to taper but knew the cutter would cut the part undersize allowing a bit of material removal
In short, no.Just saw your video about the CNC table of yours and it's problems.
Did you get it sorted out ?
As a hobbyist player I often use WD40 to give things a cooing spray every now & then , got a Shipman's fish paste jar with compressor oil in it attached to a bracket on the head stock body and a pigs hair artist brush in it for times when things need a drop of better oil coolingMy take on this is that coolant is fine and well if your lathe works for a living, but if it’s an occasional use or hobby, the cleaning takes up more time than it’s worth?
I hope to have a go at plasma cutting a hex ring spanner some 3" A/F could be fun ..it's only to undo a big nut on a hydraulic jack body head might look for 5 mm flat steel and weld the 12 mm key steel faces in around the nut for good fit ..... It's go to be more accurate than me freehand plasma cutting in 12 mm plate on my cheapie Parkside machine.In short, no.
It's a poorly designed table, made for a price. A price much much lower than what it retails for.
The software is also awful.
Im not the only one with problems, people with the professional tables costing 20-30k also having non stop problems.
Hence why all the other makers of lower end plasmas have taken over, and you barely see swift cut advertised now.
I can basically work with the issues, for the amount we use it.
If i was in @Hood or @henry Kadzielski where it's a production tool i think i'd be trying to flog it on
Proper cutting oil works noticeably better than bog standard lubricating oil.compressor oil
Slurry can also have an anti rust quality so no need for extra lube.Proper cutting oil works noticeably better than bog standard lubricating oil.
When I needed to do this with some 3/16" UNF rivet nuts, I did something a lot more rough and ready - a high tensile bolt (not sure if it needed to be), a nut and washer, then the rivet nut, into the panel and a washer and bolt on the other side. Tightening the nuts towards each other was sufficient. Of course, that was a much smaller rivet nut so easier to collapse, and I had access to the back. I was putting them in a door skin because I wasn't about to stick self-tappers (the "correct" fixings) through my new paint. I'll keep this in mind though if I need to do bigger stuff.Today I made a rivet nut setting tool.
I needed to replace a 8mm rivet nut but don't have a setting tool or have much call for one so, I made a quick, simple tool to set it.
Bit of M16 thread bar with a 8.5 hole drilled through it on the lathe and locked two nuts on it.
I've done similar - mainly because the die-cast rivet style tool I had for aluminium rivnuts would have simply snapped trying to pull up steel or stainless steel ones.When I needed to do this with some 3/16" UNF rivet nuts, I did something a lot more rough and ready - a high tensile bolt (not sure if it needed to be), a nut and washer, then the rivet nut, into the panel and a washer and bolt on the other side. Tightening the nuts towards each other was sufficient. Of course, that was a much smaller rivet nut so easier to collapse, and I had access to the back. I was putting them in a door skin because I wasn't about to stick self-tappers (the "correct" fixings) through my new paint. I'll keep this in mind though if I need to do bigger stuff.