mtt.tr
Member
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- 8,431
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- Essex/Suffolk border
Brilliant
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Brilliant
henry Kadzielski
Member
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- 1,209
- Location
- Australia Wollongong
prepman
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,700
- Location
- Gwynedd UK
As Dr Evil said about his son Scot ..."only quasi evil" (Austin Powers)
It''s the scales again! I have the same problem.Forgive me father for today I have 'Gregged' on top of my Ratkins diet.
Steak bake.......say no more.
4kgs down but with one 'bake' put on 3 kgs in 2 hrs. Just doesn't equate.
droopsnoot
Member
- Messages
- 1,099
- Location
- South Cheshire, UK
4kgs down but with one 'bake' put on 3 kgs in 2 hrs. Just doesn't equate.
I have the same issue, in both directions. The answer is to not weigh so often - isn't once a week recommended?
prepman
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,700
- Location
- Gwynedd UK
Damn those treacherous scales!It''s the scales again! I have the same problem.
prepman
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,700
- Location
- Gwynedd UK
Bi-annually?
Sergei Slovenija
Member
- Messages
- 1,267
- Location
- Slovenija Ljubljana
Made the flag holders in a hurry, bang-bang.
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
- Messages
- 2,728
- Location
- Kendal, Cumbria
More modified than made, though I did make a bucket of swarf/chips modifying them.
Got all my qcth modified to use sensible size tools, 3 at 30mm, 4 at 25mm and the knurling tool rear end was milled to accept a 20mm tool. The finish came out really nice for a 16mm carbide roughing endmill.
I also reduced the lug on the parting blade holder and boring bar holder so they were closer to the toolpost centreline.
All set on centre height ready to use!
Got all my qcth modified to use sensible size tools, 3 at 30mm, 4 at 25mm and the knurling tool rear end was milled to accept a 20mm tool. The finish came out really nice for a 16mm carbide roughing endmill.
I also reduced the lug on the parting blade holder and boring bar holder so they were closer to the toolpost centreline.
All set on centre height ready to use!
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,607
- Location
- UK
This was started at the weekend as a short break from DIY. I have loads of signwriting/lettering paints and wood finishes so decided to make a small box to hold them all along with brushes, thinners and associated tools. The brief was a quick project using bits of ply left over from other jobs that I'm too tight to throw away, but are sick of tripping over.
The ply is a mix of 12mm, 9mm and 6mm. Some is nice birch ply, some whatever old carp the builders merchant had in stock. The size and quality of the offcuts influenced the design. it was going to be 500mm wide but the offcuts were 460mm wide max. The box is loosely based on this box.
Traditionally, sign writer's boxes were strong enough to stand on to reach some jobs. I may just about get away with this one at 85kg, but I'm not sure of other forum members 
First make a box shape. I routed some shallow slots before assembly, The corner clamps make it nice and square, and I used clamps and the L brackets on the top corners later. Construction is just lap joints, glue and air nailer for speed.
Some of the ply has deep cuts. Its only a toolbox but I wanted it to be half decent so I decided to fill and paint the exterior and keep the better sides for the internal surfaces.
Then make a lid
and insert the drawer dividers. There's some more shelves to insert below, but that will be on a separate frame. The lid will have a few fittings too, to hold paint/thinners without being knocked over etc.
Filled and sanded externally
Masked
First coat of primer
The finish is good enough, just need a couple more coats of primer and top coat to fill the grain a bit.
Work stopped play, I should finish it next week as I have more DIY looming and have run out of paint, I thought I had some half tins but turned out to be dried out. Its good in that I can do 30 minutes here are there between fixing the conservatory roof, painting the kids bedroom, fixing the pellet auger on the boiler, fitting some oak skirting boards, splitting logs, varnishing the front door, making an oak bog door..............................................
The ply is a mix of 12mm, 9mm and 6mm. Some is nice birch ply, some whatever old carp the builders merchant had in stock. The size and quality of the offcuts influenced the design. it was going to be 500mm wide but the offcuts were 460mm wide max. The box is loosely based on this box.
Traditionally, sign writer's boxes were strong enough to stand on to reach some jobs. I may just about get away with this one at 85kg, but I'm not sure of other forum members
First make a box shape. I routed some shallow slots before assembly, The corner clamps make it nice and square, and I used clamps and the L brackets on the top corners later. Construction is just lap joints, glue and air nailer for speed.
Some of the ply has deep cuts. Its only a toolbox but I wanted it to be half decent so I decided to fill and paint the exterior and keep the better sides for the internal surfaces.
Then make a lid
and insert the drawer dividers. There's some more shelves to insert below, but that will be on a separate frame. The lid will have a few fittings too, to hold paint/thinners without being knocked over etc.
Filled and sanded externally
Masked
First coat of primer
The finish is good enough, just need a couple more coats of primer and top coat to fill the grain a bit.
Work stopped play, I should finish it next week as I have more DIY looming and have run out of paint, I thought I had some half tins but turned out to be dried out. Its good in that I can do 30 minutes here are there between fixing the conservatory roof, painting the kids bedroom, fixing the pellet auger on the boiler, fitting some oak skirting boards, splitting logs, varnishing the front door, making an oak bog door..............................................
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,292
- Location
- North Lincs
I have had a play with the cnc router. I had an idea to make illuminated signs. These two are a trial. Once I have added a base and LEDs I will post an update 
Blobber
Member
- Messages
- 2,548
- Location
- lincolnshire
Ooh a CNC router, is that a new toy or have I not been paying attention?!!I have had a play with the cnc router. I had an idea to make illuminated signs. These two are a trial. Once I have added a base and LEDs I will post an update
View attachment 399892
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,292
- Location
- North Lincs
I have had it over a year but it is the first time of playing with it since I was ill
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,186
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
or just use a wire wheel on a bench grinder
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,640
- Location
- South Yorkshire
or just use a wire wheel on a bench grinder
Oi. Keep out of it. We're discussing a method containing finesse, here. Not your forte.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,186
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
Nope...your discussing and justifying owning a £500 plastic spaghetti melterOi. Keep out of it. We're discussing a method containing finesse, here. Not your forte.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 5,770
- Location
- Manchester UK
New product, A tool to dismantle rifle bolts for cleaning, this one is Remington 700 but can be modified to dismantle others.
First up, make some latches:
Then some toggle levers:
Then make a Quick n Dirty jig:
No pics of the body construction but it is 1" Acetal so it doesn't mark the bolt:
Because it goes over centre it holds the tension:
and you can then just unscrew the firing pin from the bolt body. I have another tool I make for dismantling the pin from the spring but I need to work out a better (and faster) way of making those.
First up, make some latches:
Then some toggle levers:
Then make a Quick n Dirty jig:
No pics of the body construction but it is 1" Acetal so it doesn't mark the bolt:
Because it goes over centre it holds the tension:
and you can then just unscrew the firing pin from the bolt body. I have another tool I make for dismantling the pin from the spring but I need to work out a better (and faster) way of making those.
