Ashley Burton
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What thickness is that plate?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Bear
Member
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- 347
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- Manchester, UK
Its 8mm
Ashley Burton
Member
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- Northamptonhire
Reasonable thickness then.
I've got 10mm plate & wish I had spaced slats. Alternatively I might drill some holes in the plate & use the clamps that secure through
Bear
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- 347
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- Manchester, UK
Yeah should be plenty thick enough for what i will be doing
I think the slats will work out well. Just got to make myself a couple of jig block to go in the holes ive drilled to help me keep things square when i need the to be hahaha
slim_boy_fat
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Today, because I'm 'allowed' after the eye op, I made a lot of holes - a holder for the milling collets. The edges aren't parallel but I'm waiting for a pal to return my power file just to trim them.
Not finished, sides/uprights to make, but progress is progress
Not finished, sides/uprights to make, but progress is progress
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
How is the eye now Slim?
pressbrake1
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- Essex
Ps that pipe welding was nice on previous page/post
pressbrake1
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A job I’ve been threatening to do for twenty years!Today, because I'm 'allowed' after the eye op, I made a lot of holes - a holder for the milling collets. The edges aren't parallel but I'm waiting for a pal to return my power file just to trim them.
View attachment 163788
Not finished, sides/uprights to make, but progress is progress
slim_boy_fat
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Not as good as the first one - certainly seeing more but the vision hasn't resolved, a bit like looking through faintly rippled glass. I went back in case something was amiss with the actual procedure [I only had the result of the right eye to judge by, which was a great success] and the Ophthalmology Consultant explained that the problem was with the back of my eye.
I had to have laser treatment years ago to stop growth of 'extra' veins [think....tree/plant roots], the body's way of compensating for a central vein blockage. He said if I'd not had that done then, I'd not be seeing anything with the eye by now. The good news is that the sight won't get worse now.
So, improved, but by no means 100%. However there's always someone worse off, I have much to be grateful for.
mrsbruce
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- Livingston, Scotland
No pictures, but today I finally tested my ‘Burnishing station’, having dug out the burnishing motor, polishing wheels, etc. I’ve finally got everything in a permanent place where they can be used with ease.
Sharpened up all my leatherwork knives, including all the edgers, and I’m very happy with the results. I’m especially happy with my vintage round knife. I thought I had done a good job with it in the past (it certainly cut leather with ease), but I don’t think it has ever been so sharp in its life. It’s scary sharp.
Sharpened up all my leatherwork knives, including all the edgers, and I’m very happy with the results. I’m especially happy with my vintage round knife. I thought I had done a good job with it in the past (it certainly cut leather with ease), but I don’t think it has ever been so sharp in its life. It’s scary sharp.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Two new cylinders for my Hope disc brakes, old ones (front/right/alu) are all rough/scored on the edges where they've came too far out the caliper body and twisted, new ones are brass and smoother though currently missing the magnets that stick the pads to them. One is full is solder because I didn't have any material big enough so I soldered a 15mm bar in a 28mm cored bar and it was leaking fluid through the solder joint when I tried to bleed them so it came apart again to be sorted. 
I have a feeling the seals in the caliper body want replacing too but I've just bought a cheap Avid brake on eBay so this one may just get thrown in my big box of old bike bits.
I have a feeling the seals in the caliper body want replacing too but I've just bought a cheap Avid brake on eBay so this one may just get thrown in my big box of old bike bits.
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
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I didn’t make them but I did haul them from a skip and repaint then into fun colours! Two fifteen-drawer filing cabinets for my mum, plastic drawers so I had to scrape off the torn labels with meths and a knife but they’ve bounced back. The mind boggles when stuff as good as this is thrown away!
DennisCA
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I have started putting the crane back together after getting done with most of the welding, still some stuff left but it can done as easily, or more so with the thing assembled.
Here it is with the legs extended in wide mode, now it's a nice ~87cm between the legs so a euro-pallet will easily fit inside. I still need to weld some supporting caps over the inner U-profiles where I also welded on more square profiles. With a lot of weight on the crane those might be weak points and fold. The wheels under them should help but I wouldn't want to count on them alone.
Here it is with the legs extended in wide mode, now it's a nice ~87cm between the legs so a euro-pallet will easily fit inside. I still need to weld some supporting caps over the inner U-profiles where I also welded on more square profiles. With a lot of weight on the crane those might be weak points and fold. The wheels under them should help but I wouldn't want to count on them alone.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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- Don't ask questions
A bleed tool for Magura HS33s (Hydraulic rim brakes);
I make a new one every time I bleed them, usually just an M6 bolt with a 3mm hole drilled down it, I thought this time I'd try to make it a bit nicer and try not to lose it.
The thread screws into the slave cylinder and the barb accepts a bit of hose that would ordinarily have a syringe on it.
I don't have a syringe so I used a burette.
I make a new one every time I bleed them, usually just an M6 bolt with a 3mm hole drilled down it, I thought this time I'd try to make it a bit nicer and try not to lose it.
The thread screws into the slave cylinder and the barb accepts a bit of hose that would ordinarily have a syringe on it.
I don't have a syringe so I used a burette.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,320
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Made a start to making the signal wheel for checking the position on the lathe turret I made a while back.
The turret has been working fine for quite a few years but I am considering putting one of the Chinese standalone controllers on it and it prefers position feedback. Currently there is a kind of position feedback but it is from the servos encoder which is a belt/gearbox/coupling away from the tool plate so I decided to try and get something more directly coupled to the tool plate.
I posted on the forum asking about suitable sensors and got a lot of great answers but whilst discussing things I worked out I had enough room internally to fit proximity sensors once it had been suggested I offset them by 22.5 degrees and thus could have two sets of two proximity sensors in the space of two.
This is the turret in question.
And this is the model I did prior to making it, you can see the prox switches and wheels I added the other day to check everything would work out.
Anyway I need the wheel to be about 30mm wide but the only steel I had to hand was 8mm so I cut 2 of each so they can be stacked on each other to make up the thickness.
I cut them 4mm, on the diameter, oversize so that I could then mill them as there would be some bevel in the plasma cut, as it turned out it was pretty good so I probably could have go away with just 2mm oversize on the diameter.
Milled out the centre holes to size and turned a piece of delrin to tap them onto, I will then tack them in pairs and mill the outside and then slip them back on the delrin and tack the two pairs together but that is a job for another day.
The turret has been working fine for quite a few years but I am considering putting one of the Chinese standalone controllers on it and it prefers position feedback. Currently there is a kind of position feedback but it is from the servos encoder which is a belt/gearbox/coupling away from the tool plate so I decided to try and get something more directly coupled to the tool plate.
I posted on the forum asking about suitable sensors and got a lot of great answers but whilst discussing things I worked out I had enough room internally to fit proximity sensors once it had been suggested I offset them by 22.5 degrees and thus could have two sets of two proximity sensors in the space of two.
This is the turret in question.
And this is the model I did prior to making it, you can see the prox switches and wheels I added the other day to check everything would work out.
Anyway I need the wheel to be about 30mm wide but the only steel I had to hand was 8mm so I cut 2 of each so they can be stacked on each other to make up the thickness.
I cut them 4mm, on the diameter, oversize so that I could then mill them as there would be some bevel in the plasma cut, as it turned out it was pretty good so I probably could have go away with just 2mm oversize on the diameter.
Milled out the centre holes to size and turned a piece of delrin to tap them onto, I will then tack them in pairs and mill the outside and then slip them back on the delrin and tack the two pairs together but that is a job for another day.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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- North Kent, UK
stuvy
Member
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- 9,304
A bleed tool for Magura HS33s (Hydraulic rim brakes);
View attachment 163870
I make a new one every time I bleed them, usually just an M6 bolt with a 3mm hole drilled down it, I thought this time I'd try to make it a bit nicer and try not to lose it.
The thread screws into the slave cylinder and the barb accepts a bit of hose that would ordinarily have a syringe on it.
View attachment 163871
I don't have a syringe so I used a burette.
View attachment 163872
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,320
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Bored some 4.3mm holes at 50mm PCD in the wheel parts and then threw up a chunk of Alu and bored/tapped 4mm, that gave me a quick means of getting the parts aligned properly.
Part bolted down ready for milling.
One down 3 to go.
I then put them all in the lathe and faced them off both sides.
Bored the holes in 3 of the parts out to 5mm and tapped the last one M5 and bolted them together.
Next job was to dismantle the turret.
I then bored out the wheel to fit onto the splined housing and that is as far as I got today. I will be welding the wheel up rather than bolting but thought it better just bolting until I was sure everything was going to work, as it happens I am going to have to reduce the thickness by 4mm or so.
Part bolted down ready for milling.
One down 3 to go.
I then put them all in the lathe and faced them off both sides.
Bored the holes in 3 of the parts out to 5mm and tapped the last one M5 and bolted them together.
Next job was to dismantle the turret.
I then bored out the wheel to fit onto the splined housing and that is as far as I got today. I will be welding the wheel up rather than bolting but thought it better just bolting until I was sure everything was going to work, as it happens I am going to have to reduce the thickness by 4mm or so.
