Stuff you have made today

[Parm]

Great job @Tangledfeet, told you you would really like TIG,

Great first effort and waay better than it needs to be for the application.

I think it's important to realise we can't all be "welding gods" like @richard and @Brad93 and lots of others on here (that takes 10,000 hours of practice) but you can get a perfectly serviceable weld that will never break if you set out to do the best you can.

Well done and it only gets easier..

I’m in that same boat, my welds work but don’t look pretty

 

[Gregwalker1981]

Wee spare hour in the shed knocked this up

Trailer extension arm 2.5m long can be split to 1m for launching the boat in deeper water

 

[optima21]

for the past couple of days Ive been making a new drive pulley for my lathe as one of the V's had worn and was wider than a new belt, so its a 3 speed stepped pulley, with one V being for a 6mm wide belt and 2 being for 8mm wide belts and the biggest largest diameter V is in the middle. lucky enough I had a chunk of alumium the right size.

the first thing I did was to grind a couple of form tools to the shape of the grooves as the have different angles

then turned the bank for the large step and one of the smaller steps and bored the centre out for the motor spindle

then the V was cut to depth with a parting tool

then the sides of the V are cut using the form tool in one go for each side of the V, 6mm wide using a madrel handle to get decent finish

the part completed pulley was then turned round and the third V was cut

the keyway was then cut using a 4mm square toolbit in boring bar tool holder. I was originally going to do this in my milling machine, but easier to set up in the lathe

taking a cut 0.05 mm at a time.

to stop the chuck from rotating the mandre handle was clamped to the lathe bed. the new pulley was to replace the on the back pulley (on the motor)

and then counterboring onr end of the bore as there was clearance issues with another pulley

 

[pressbrake1]

I needed a means to map the faces on my HLV saddle for scraping and for that I needed fine adjustment, so I knocked up three little screw-jacks. They are about an inch tall each.

View attachment 164183

And this is what they are for, the turcite I am scraping HAS to be dead parallel to the shiny ground face on the right. I used the 0.0001" indicator to sweep the face end to end and across and adjusted it level on the jacks.

View attachment 164184

Pete , where do you get your turcite from. I used to get it from work but they are long gone now

 

[Pete.]

Pete , where do you get your turcite from. I used to get it from work but they are long gone now

I got it from Rich, the instructor at the scraping class. The only supplier I know of in the UK is Birmingham Machine Tools.

 

[Chillitt]

About 40 years ago I helped dad take out the original stone fire surround and build a new one out of nasty 70s concrete fake stone blocks. I've been sat indoors looking at it for a week with a cold and I couldn't put upwith it any longer so its gone. Amazing how much better the fire works with some air round it.

 

[Jlg]

Not made but fixed this pulley someone had butchered it by jamming grub screws in to make it fit a smaller shaft an doing that had weakened it causing a bit too break of so I cut it off and bored it out to 1" put a new shaft in and bored that to 12.7mm

 

[maz0]

I got it from Rich, the instructor at the scraping class. The only supplier I know of in the UK is Birmingham Machine Tools.

Damn I just found the old thread where you organised the class, I am very sad I missed that! Looks like it was a blast...

 

[Hood]

Today I welded on some 8mm Alu to make up a rope guide to guide the rope as it comes off the hauler, also had to fill in between the hauler and the guide with Alu, fit a roller, make a cleat and a small guard above to stop ropes catching.

I then cut a hole in the corner of the table as the skipper wants another bait box for when his son is with him.

Made the bait box but forgot to take a pic of it welded in place.

Then made a base for a seat, needed to be made that way so that the access to the batteries in the side compartment is unhindered.

Tomorrow I will hopefully get on to the wiring I need to do and that should just about be me finished unless the skipper dreams up some more modifications.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Today I welded on some 8mm Alu to make up a rope guide to guide the rope as it comes off the hauler, also had to fill in between the hauler and the guide with Alu, fit a roller, make a cleat and a small guard above to stop ropes catching.

View attachment 164505 View attachment 164506

I then cut a hole in the corner of the table as the skipper wants another bait box for when his son is with him.

View attachment 164507

Made the bait box but forgot to take a pic of it welded in place.

View attachment 164508

Then made a base for a seat, needed to be made that way so that the access to the batteries in the side compartment is unhindered.

View attachment 164509 View attachment 164510

Tomorrow I will hopefully get on to the wiring I need to do and that should just about be me finished unless the skipper dreams up some more modifications.

Does this all get painted or left bare metal?

 

[Hood]

Just left bare, paint would get worn off most of it after the first few fleets of creels had been hauled over it.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Just left bare, paint would get worn off most of it after the first few fleets of creels had been hauled over it.

Is the white stuff fibreglass then? They must see some wild weather!

 

[Hood]

Yes, the boats are GRP and yes they can see some choppy days.
Pic of one I fitted out last year heading out, not that rough but still a good pic.

 

[Pete.]

Not made but fixed this pulley someone had butchered it by jamming grub screws in to make it fit a smaller shaft an doing that had weakened it causing a bit too break of so I cut it off and bored it out to 1" put a new shaft in and bored that to 12.7mm

Well done. Did you fit the new shaft with loctite, grub screws or shrink the pulley on?

 

[Jlg]

Well done. Did you fit the new shaft with loctite, grub screws or shrink the pulley on?

Slight press fit with loctite and the grub screw that will hold it to the shaft should help it as well I had it in my press to see if it would move I put 2 ton on it and nothing but I'm not pushing my look by adding more force I had to borrow a pulley and bodeg it on to fix this but I got it done my lathe doesn't like me though it was running at neatly 3000rpm with the pulley I was using

 

[Hood]

Got the prox switches for the turret today and just couldn't seem to get the bracket sitting right so that they were working at all positions. The main problem is that it is at the rear of the lathe so no way to get in there to adjust whilst they are in position without dismantling quite a bit of the lathe covers. Before I go ahead and do the dismantling I wanted to be sure that they would work so I took off the motor/gearbox again and rotated the sensor wheel 180 degrees and rigged up a hash bash way of fixing the prox bracket to the front. I was then able to adjust the prox switches individually and they are all working as they should as can be seen in the video.
The prox are binary configuration so lower left is 1, lower right 2, upper left 4 and upper right is 8.
In the vid below you can just make out the numbers I temporarily wrote on the turret and also see the LEDs in the prox switches at each position, they all check out fine.

 

[Maker]

One of these:

1" BSPT on the outside and 1/4" BSPP inside, its for a water drain tap on a Lister D.



I offset the tailstock behind center and turned it between centers to get the taper. The original plan was to just drill and tap a 1" iron stop plug but I couldn't think how to hold it in the chuck to drill it (Can't fit a 12mm drill in my pillar drill) so I went for the easier option.
The ends of the threads need dressing with a small file but I'll leave that for my dad when he fits it.

 

[zx9]

(Can't fit a 12mm drill in my pillar drill)

You need a set of blacksmith's drills, they have a reduced shank to fit into the chuck.

 

[Hood]

Started off bending a bit of 20mm dia Alu which will be used for tying the mooring rope to on one of the Cats I am working on, also plasma cut a bit of 12mm Alu out with an oval hole which will be for the rope passing through, never took a pic of them however

Next was to make a couple of crab spikes, normally I use 50mm dia Acetal but I only had 85mm dia so I had to use that. It will be chopped in half and the ends turned down to fit into some Alu tubes that are on the boat already, I just need to measure the height they need to be before I can do that.

Then I went down to a boat to remove the hauler plates, got there to find there were no set screws in the taper lock Eventually got it apart and got them into the lathe and the flat face and taper skimmed, they are about 19-20inch diameter.

Went back to the boat to fit with a couple of setscrews only to find the reason there were none, the threads were stripped in the plates and the setscrews must have just dropped out So off with the top plate again and back to the workshop and into the Chiron with it. Took a bit of messing to get things set up correctly as I had to be exactly 60 degrees offset from the original holes due to the inner plate being keyed and thus the bolt holes in both plates and also the key in the taper bush all need to align.

Milled out two half holes the full 35mm deep and one 25mm deep.

I then used the threaded part of the taper lock bush as a guide so that I could tap the two half holes.

It was then back to the boat and get them fitted.

I then filled up a knife cover for a hauler.

And then started on a guard for a donkey engine exhaust, I will finish that tomorrow as I need to cut some 3mm plate and it was out in the plasma shed and I couldn't be bothered opening that up in the dark

 

[Morrisman]

I offset the tailstock behind center and turned it between centers to get the taper. The original plan was to just drill and tap a 1" iron stop plug but I couldn't think how to hold it in the chuck to drill it....

Three small strips of 1/8” aluminium under the jaws will grip itplenty tight enough without damaging the thread.