Drunk again, tut tut.Nice seeing a bit if tiggery from you hood. Not just a (handsome) mig monkey xxx
One of these:
View attachment 164644
1" BSPT on the outside and 1/4" BSPP inside, its for a water drain tap on a Lister D.
View attachment 164645
I offset the tailstock behind center and turned it between centers to get the taper. The original plan was to just drill and tap a 1" iron stop plug but I couldn't think how to hold it in the chuck to drill it (Can't fit a 12mm drill in my pillar drill) so I went for the easier option.
The ends of the threads need dressing with a small file but I'll leave that for my dad when he fits it.
You need a set of blacksmith's drills, they have a reduced shank to fit into the chuck.
There was a huge pillar drill with a 2mt fitting... with a Jacobs 34 13mm chuck in it... and a pile of morse taper drill bits which had been ground down to reduce the taper shank to fit in the chuck. I could have cried...
That's what I was going to do but I could only find an elbow that size and I couldn't be bothered to 4 jaw it.better method would be to use a 1" barrel socket gripped in the lathe & screw the bung into it.
Well sure, it's not as good as me but you shouldn't beat yourself up about it.Ha ha I thought it was crap myself, my stainless Tig is decent at times and not at others, don't do enough of it.
View attachment 164703 View attachment 164704 View attachment 164705 Eventually got round to making a compression moulding tool for making the seals that go in the track of a WW2 military vehicle. First part was a short shot ,second was perfect. Doesn't look like much until you cut one in half to reveal the section...
Cool, I take it that the magnet is taped to spacer at the back of the spindle just in front of the first change wheel, you could probably turn a new spacer and drill it to let you epoxy in the magnet.This a tachometer for my lathe I was going to put it in a project box but I couldn't afford one so for now I've just put it there and tucker the wires and switch behind the rack on my wallView attachment 164731View attachment 164732
I super glued it and the tape was a just in case measur as I have some 1mm neodymium magnets that I need to find and I'll drill a hole and epoxy one of them inCool, I take it that the magnet is taped to spacer at the back of the spindle just in front of the first change wheel, you could probably turn a new spacer and drill it to let you epoxy in the magnet.
It's a compression moulding tool, not an injection moulding tool. Cut your bits of uncured rubber from a slab, weigh them , put them in the mold and slowly close it. Mold heated to 160 degrees and in a 30 ton heated pressHow do you inject the material
I've just realised the taper is wrong, I'd worked out from the wiki the big end should be 0.026" bigger than the small end but I'd taken the "gauge length" (0.409") as the overall length, I should have moved the tailstock back a further 0.04". I did think as I started threading it looked a bit shallow, should still seal though, fingers crossed.One of these:
View attachment 164644
1" BSPT on the outside and 1/4" BSPP inside, its for a water drain tap on a Lister D.
View attachment 164645
I offset the tailstock behind center and turned it between centers to get the taper. The original plan was to just drill and tap a 1" iron stop plug but I couldn't think how to hold it in the chuck to drill it (Can't fit a 12mm drill in my pillar drill) so I went for the easier option.
The ends of the threads need dressing with a small file but I'll leave that for my dad when he fits it.
That brings back memories. Designed and testing rubber mouldings for 10 years. Make a single cavity, 6 samples then it was scrap.View attachment 164703 View attachment 164704 View attachment 164705 Eventually got round to making a compression moulding tool for making the seals that go in the track of a WW2 military vehicle. First part was a short shot ,second was perfect. Doesn't look like much until you cut one in half to reveal the section...