Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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- 12,111
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- NE London - UK
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Pete.
Member
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- 14,372
- Location
- Kent, UK
If it wasn't then the keyway it located with on the shaft would also be cut at an angle, constraining the flange to only one position on the shaft with no facility for axial adjustment.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,111
- Location
- NE London - UK
If the keyway and key seats are both sut along the line of taper, which is how I assume they would be, then a standard parallel key could be used. Alternatively it could be a Woodruff key which used to be the standard on Triumph clutch hubs and main shafts.
Edit: Are you thinking along the lines of an L0 or L00 taper, perhaps?
Pete.
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- 14,372
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- Kent, UK
Actually having read it again the bore is tapered so it doesn't depend on the key for axial location. It might still have a tapered key (or as you said, a woodruff) though since my Herbert mill has a top pulley that sites on a taper yet still has a tapered key in it. I remember reading about the reason why they do it but can't remember the source.
Johnnybravo
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- 3,552
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- Northiam
No. Yes. Don't know. Hahaha. It's a parallel 5mm square key that is cut parallel to the taper. The depth of the key way is the same either end of the taper. So it's not cut parallel to the centreline of the shaft. If that makes sense ? It's off the fan drives on the big V12 Maybach engine in a Panther tank. I copied a very rotten original.
Johnnybravo
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- Northiam
Goes on here. One each side of the engine
rory1
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- 1,201
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- Macclesfield
Pete.
Member
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- 14,372
- Location
- Kent, UK
Cool. Odd way of over-complicating a key but cool nonetheless.
Johnnybravo
Member
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- 3,552
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- Northiam
Ze Chermans ja...
Scruffywelder
Member
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- 488
- Location
- Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland
Cat still using JIC fittings or have they gone onto something more available?
A pal had a Cat for a time and hoses for it were flippin' eyewatering...
rory1
Member
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- 1,201
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- Macclesfield
Depends what machine it is. This one is on metric fittings, some are on SAE/ORFS , and the bigger stuff is on CAT proprietary flanges which are like code 62 flanges just a bit thicker.
JIC is a fairly uneversal , I’ve never found them difficult to get hold of.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,304
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Some bits and pieces for the Cheetah Cat I am currently fitting out.
Support arm for the davit, flange welded square to the end of some 3" tube and the other end milled out to fit onto the 3 1/2" davit, it will be welded in situ. Also a hinge for a helper for lifting/tilting the shooting table from 12mm 5083.
Some more bits for the davit, supports, top plate and base plate, again from 12mm 5083
Lastly a spigot from some alu for the davit sitting on, it will be welded to the base plate once the location is known. Also a stainless flap for the donkey engine exhaust and had to chop the pipe and reweld. It is a bought exhaust pipe/flange and was 45 degrees but it needed to be straight
Support arm for the davit, flange welded square to the end of some 3" tube and the other end milled out to fit onto the 3 1/2" davit, it will be welded in situ. Also a hinge for a helper for lifting/tilting the shooting table from 12mm 5083.
Some more bits for the davit, supports, top plate and base plate, again from 12mm 5083
Lastly a spigot from some alu for the davit sitting on, it will be welded to the base plate once the location is known. Also a stainless flap for the donkey engine exhaust and had to chop the pipe and reweld. It is a bought exhaust pipe/flange and was 45 degrees but it needed to be straight
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 5,730
- Location
- Ireland
Spent a couple of hours filing and grinding the weld blobs from the inside of the silencer, so that it's nice tight sliding fit onto the Delko collector, and there's a good inch of overlap to seal with.. I did the first few by hand, but thought sod this, there must be an easier way.
Dug out the Cheap 'n Cheerful air tool kit that I'd bought at the market yonks back and discovered an air die grinder that is, surprisingly, not as crap as I thought. The job went easily after that, but by 'eck it's a greedy sod for air demand. The compressor was running constantly for at least half an hour.
I'd venture to suggest the compressor is well run-in by now.
I cut the Hardly internals in half, so that there's still plenty of wadding and perforations in place, but ran a 10mm drill through the baffle, just because I could.
Fitted the silencer, after having to drill and tap the Harley bracket to M10, from its funny UNC thread (I recall when those were perfectly normal, but haven't even got any UNF or UNC nuts and bolts in stock, nor had for years).
The securing collar is temporary for now - a proper SS exhaust clamp is on its way, and the support strut at the rear can be re-done with something that looks a bit less hokey.
The AFR bung is in the right position, too. Which is nice.
Discovered that some toerag has nicked my Coppaslip.
All in all though, it works.
I'll start it tomorrow and see what it sounds like with half the guts it came from Hardly with.
Dug out the Cheap 'n Cheerful air tool kit that I'd bought at the market yonks back and discovered an air die grinder that is, surprisingly, not as crap as I thought. The job went easily after that, but by 'eck it's a greedy sod for air demand. The compressor was running constantly for at least half an hour.
I'd venture to suggest the compressor is well run-in by now.
I cut the Hardly internals in half, so that there's still plenty of wadding and perforations in place, but ran a 10mm drill through the baffle, just because I could.
Fitted the silencer, after having to drill and tap the Harley bracket to M10, from its funny UNC thread (I recall when those were perfectly normal, but haven't even got any UNF or UNC nuts and bolts in stock, nor had for years).
The securing collar is temporary for now - a proper SS exhaust clamp is on its way, and the support strut at the rear can be re-done with something that looks a bit less hokey.
The AFR bung is in the right position, too. Which is nice.
Discovered that some toerag has nicked my Coppaslip.
All in all though, it works.
I'll start it tomorrow and see what it sounds like with half the guts it came from Hardly with.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 942
After months of looking at them on instagram I finally got around to knocking a rocket stove together. I just need to flick some stove paint over it and I can get to cooking.
Johnnybravo
Member
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- 3,552
- Location
- Northiam
I needed some specific centreline radius elbows for an obscure pipe, for the exhaust on one of the projects I am busy with. Because it's an obscure size, nobody has formers to roll the radius bend I need. So made some bits. Welded two 1,5mm thick 316 stainless blanks together,and tried my hand at hydroforming. Cheapy Chinese pressure washer ran out of poke,but very happy with initial results. I am no tig welder,(first time on stainless for anything useable.Up to now just bits stuck together for practice.), but was very happy that all my welds held. Have ordered a new 275bar pump from interpump to finish the job. A very promising start.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,589
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- Going Away.
The other day I got this Abrafile saw. For a few pounds.
I knew the handle had 2 worm holes in it, I planed to replace it. What I didn't know the frame was cracked.
The handle was not as bad as it could of been. The worm was old and not active. But It was treated as a precaution.
The frame had some poor chrome plating, more flake than coat. But as I was cleaning it up the crack, in the fixed blade end let go and it broke into two.
Oh Bother. A quick call to a friend and a meet up was arranged. The frame is imperial and my friend had some scrap round bar. So armed with folding money, coffee and Hob Nobs I set out.
Long story short. A bar was bent into a replacement frame. Then the old was cut clean and the new cut to suit. Turned on a lathe to give a step. Then he TIG the 2 parts up.
You can just see the heat bloom on the frame before I cleaned it up.
I know I could of gone back to the place I got it from and got either my money back or a replacement. But were is the fun in that.
I knew the handle had 2 worm holes in it, I planed to replace it. What I didn't know the frame was cracked.
The handle was not as bad as it could of been. The worm was old and not active. But It was treated as a precaution.
The frame had some poor chrome plating, more flake than coat. But as I was cleaning it up the crack, in the fixed blade end let go and it broke into two.
Oh Bother. A quick call to a friend and a meet up was arranged. The frame is imperial and my friend had some scrap round bar. So armed with folding money, coffee and Hob Nobs I set out.
Long story short. A bar was bent into a replacement frame. Then the old was cut clean and the new cut to suit. Turned on a lathe to give a step. Then he TIG the 2 parts up.
You can just see the heat bloom on the frame before I cleaned it up.
I know I could of gone back to the place I got it from and got either my money back or a replacement. But were is the fun in that.
Dcal
Member
- Messages
- 3,947
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Excellent work there @Johnnybravo
Looks like it turned out well.
Would never have thought of trying anything like this at home.
Looks like it turned out well.
Would never have thought of trying anything like this at home.
