Stuff you have made today

[Gritineye]

Proof a w̶o̶ mans work is never done

Bob

I read that as 'Poof a w̶o̶ mans work is never done' and was preparing myself to be offended!

 

[Parm]

A satisfying satisfactory sufficient repair.

View attachment 196859
Freelander TD4 radiator bleed, I managed to snap it off trying to undo the intercooler hose clips where th screw heads face the bodywork. Just part a whole catalogue of reasons you should say no to fixing old cars and take drugs children.


View attachment 196860
Hexagonal brass from my stash. Drilled 3.5mm with an M6 thread.


View attachment 196861
Spotface the broken plastic to get a flat face with one of those spotfacing tools that will “come in handy one day”.


View attachment 196862
Tap M6.


View attachment 196863
Test fit the hex brass.


View attachment 196864
Turn to diameter and replicate the hose barb.


View attachment 196865
Linish all the hex faces so a 7/16” spanner fits, add sealant and enjoy. Worked perfectly and will make re-sealing the diesel pump job easier as all the radiator fixings are now good after replacing the alternator that failed after investigating the diesel leak.......

This is confirmation why it’s so important to buy and collect all the tools and machines we do. Just think, that lathe and some scrap have saved the day

 

[8ob]

This is confirmation why it’s so important to buy and collect all the tools and machines we do. Just think, that lathe and some scrap have saved the day

Hang on a minute Parmster , before we pile on the praise we should really find out which butcher left the tell tale muncher marks in the said rad tail

 

[Parm]

Hang on a minute Parmster , before we pile on the praise we should really find out which butcher left the tell tale muncher marks in the said rad tail


View attachment 196899

Ah yes well spotted

Come on @Wallace spill the beans and reveal all

 

[DAPPH]

Ah yes well spotted

Come on @Wallace spill the beans and reveal all

Probably a coned plug screw with drain channel that runs inside the detached stem . All that was needed was two turns of a flat screwdriver/ allen key etc to unseat the plug and then slip a hose over the spigot .

 

[Wallace]

Ah yes well spotted

Come on @Wallace spill the beans and reveal all

Probably a coned plug screw with drain channel that runs inside the detached stem . All that was needed was two turns of a flat screwdriver/ allen key etc to unseat the plug and then slip a hose over the spigot .

Hang on a minute Parmster , before we pile on the praise we should really find out which butcher left the tell tale muncher marks in the said rad tail


View attachment 196899

The spur marks I believe are injection moulding marks, so far as I can tell the radiator pack has never been apart since the factory and the vehicle has 100k on it, also, all the bolts were rusty and unmarked. I caught the hose barb with the hose still attached due to a slip of the pry bar trying to rotate the intercooler hose clip, the radiator was still full. BluTac over the hole I carried on with a 6mm spanner undoing the clip flat by flat rotating the spanner each time, total urine boiler of a job on both clips. As it has to come apart again for the HP fuel pump I will try and work out how the factory assembly was done as the whole pack with fans will not come out of the aperture.

I left two spur marks on the broken hose barb with the forged end of an electrical screwdriver by forcing it into the bore of the broben end and rotating for removal from the hose and it came out easily after gently pinching the hose with grips to break the stiction.

Anyone need a LHD Freelander?

 

[Tangledfeet]

Continued with current overkill project over the weekend, one started earlier in the year when I acquired a 1300 x 850mm plate of 0.5" steel - so decided to make an appropriately butch supporting structure. Used the TIG to tack it all up and then later today the wee Paton to stick weld it all together in a most non aesthetically fashion. I was fine with the 6.0 to 6.0mm joints but punched through the 3.0mm several times when sticking 6.0 to 3.0mm together - will sort that out by reverting to TIG at a later date... another curve award on the learning shape achieved!

 

[DAPPH]

May I suggest ….

Before you slap the top on cut a slot at the " best end " so you can slip a 6" vice mounted on a T plate with the vertical plate going down a leg cut a slot in the vertical ., weld a bolt through the leg so you can clamp the vice to the leg by slipping a plate ove the bolt when the T is sat square in the slot , weld a keeper for the socket or spanner that you tighten & loosed the nut with
. Put your table on hard nylon 100 mm lockable swivelling castors . It's a godsend down the line when you have a big bit of kit that needs space around it ( my castors are rated at 200 kg each ) . I've also put it so that one side and the front of the top has a decent over lap that can be clamped to with ease No cracking your knuckles on the steel framework " & it's also good for an earth point for the welder. .

Found the extra height gained from the castors isn't a problem ..for me it has been bonus as I have a bust up spine and other injuries .. I no longer need to try an bend over most jobs like I would have had to at the original lower height .

Ardy … The Yellow Ardvark might still have some pictures he took of my bench on his phone .. talk to him nicely and he may let you see them , or even post them in the thread .

 

[Tangledfeet]

@DAPPH Cheers for the comments. Much of what you've suggested will, to some extent, be in hand. It'll have lockable castors on it, albeit, not as large as yours, and the top will project 100mm or so all around. I'm reasonably tall at just over 6'1" and the surface will be at a height I can stand at comfortably. For the moment I'm keep the vice separate; I made a stand for it earlier in the year.

 

[Pete.]

Hang on a minute Parmster , before we pile on the praise we should really find out which butcher left the tell tale muncher marks in the said rad tail

View attachment 196899

Someone in the past has used pump pliers to break the bond between the hose and the barb.

 

[DAPPH]

Someone in the past has used pump pliers to break the bond between the hose and the barb.

In the far distant past as a electro mechanical engineer , where possible & spares being available on factory assembled silly fits I used to cut the rubber pipes well back from the component , remove the remaining clamps with a grinder or chewed tiny bits off them with end & side cutters or a fine triangular file till they fell apart and used a Stanley knife to slice the rubber & armoured hoses on the stub open . Sometimes cutting & pulling a " runway" in down to the pipe then easing it back bit by bit .

 

[Munkul]

Tried TIG Brazing for the first time on Saturday. Really quite satisfying. Around 50 amps AC with a bit more cleaning action, trying to avoid melting base metal was the hardest bit. Made up a few hydraulic connectors for the MF 40 power steering hoses. When all you've got is some already-bodged fittings, then easiest thing was to bodge some more
(don't worry, no liability with these, I wouldn't dare do this for anyone else though!)

 

[Brad93]

Silver solder is usually a good choice for anything Brass.

Have you got aluminium bronze or silicon bronze?

Aluminium Bronze is better on AC

 

[Munkul]

silicon bronze.

I did some playing about with settings beforehand, seemed to work better on AC than DC so I just went with it. Pulse DC might have been a better choice in retrospect, but the welds were definitely cleaner on AC.

 

[cianh91]

Chassis kit for a turf trailer I done for one the lads he’s sent me a pic of it tacked last night laser cut and folded leaves a really good fit up for easy fabrication

 

[brewdexta]

I managed to get a bit more of the kitchen done at the weekend. Can you see what it is yet?

Any idea now its fitted?

maybe now?

Not sure that image will clarify it. The slots are for phones, my phone is in the left hand slot being charged. It uses these universal connectors. it has micro USB, USB "C" and apple dongles that you plug in your phone so all the phones in the house can use the same cable. They are magnetic and have a small LED in the leads.

Spare dongles on the inside of the cabinet in case we get visitors who need to charge up.

And the console below the phone charger is a 7" touch sensitive panel with a Raspberry Pi and a hi-fi Berry on the back. I'm just using it for attaching to the NAS for our ripped CDs plus Internet radio at the moment but I will be putting Spotify on it, plus it has Bluetooth so should be able to stream from Phones but will need some services enabled, shouldn't be too difficult.....

it will also connect to the heating controls etc. or general Internet browsing. The amp plays through to mini Cambridge Audio speakers, sounds great, much better working in the kitchen now. I did have this working in a standalone console that I made but it looked incongruous in the kitchen so I may get another screen and amp and re-purpose it in the workshop.

Cheers
Andy

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Excellent!! I was with you until I saw Hugh Fearnley Whatsisface's book/folder there.....

 

[Farside]

I made an engine hot today, but not as hot as I thought it was.
New gauge and sender, more reliable, better truthfulness from it.

Last week the old gauge was up off the scale, which I knew wasn't right.

 

[Wallace]

I made an engine hot today, but not as hot as I thought it was.
New gauge and sender, more reliable, better truthfulness from it.
View attachment 197003

Last week the old gauge was up off the scale, which I knew wasn't right.

Never heard of KUS gauges, maybe they're aimed at kids of today......

"Hey Bruv, yo engine hot init."

"Thanks Kus."

 

[Farside]

Never heard of KUS gauges, maybe they're aimed at kids of today......

"Hey Bruv, yo engine hot init."

"Thanks Kus."

Chinesium marine gauges. They seem um... ok for now. The jury's out.