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wyn
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Bodged up some holes in some cast iron
These are the spacer sections off a disc mower where the blades have worn through.
No waiting for things to cool ....just lots of runs one after another and it seemed to go ok.
Realised half way through the welder was on the TIG setting.
Seemed to go a bit better on the stick setting.
These are the spacer sections off a disc mower where the blades have worn through.
No waiting for things to cool ....just lots of runs one after another and it seemed to go ok.
Realised half way through the welder was on the TIG setting.
Seemed to go a bit better on the stick setting.
Dr.Al
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Warning: this post contains cellulose-based materials...
Today I acquired two lengths of t-slot extrusion (supposedly off-cuts and hence cheap, but I can't imagine considering 1.25 m long pieces as off-cuts!).
The bits sticking out the top are bits of mild steel that I turned to 20 mm diameter and drilled/counterbored for an M6 cap screw.
They drop into the holes on the bench and provide the rails for my recently-made router slide to run on:
Now I can "machine" the top of a piece of wood up to 350 mm wide and up to about 1.1 m long and can handle any thickness up to 60 mm.
I had a bit of (just under 30 mm thick) oak that had been planed on one side so I thought I'd try that as it saves faffing with shims to get the first side flat.
I'd originally planned to hold it down with double-sided tape as I did with the small bit of walnut I tested before getting the long extrusion lengths, but I don't think the board was flat enough or the tape was too old or something, so I held it down by running a bead of hot melt glue round the edge. Note to self: I don't need hot melt all the way round - it's stronger than you'd expect!
Half-way across:
I did one pass running front to back (moving sideways until the previous cut line was roughly in the middle of the slide and then pulling the router towards me and then pushing it back to the back). I then did a pass at the same height setting going left-to-right/right-to-left, moving the router towards me by approximately the full (25 mm) width of the cutter after each pass. The whole board took less than 10 minutes at a guess, although I didn't actually look at the clock before or after!
All finished (and sawdust everywhere!)
After tidying up a bit:
It leaves some streaks in the wood, but they're very light:
I took a hand plane, withdrew the blade and then gradually moved it back out until it just started to touch the wood. One very quick and very light pass and the streaks are gone:
Then I just had to get all the hot melt glue off! Next time I'll probably just put a few small hot melt glue blobs around the rim - I'm sure that would be enough.
Today I acquired two lengths of t-slot extrusion (supposedly off-cuts and hence cheap, but I can't imagine considering 1.25 m long pieces as off-cuts!).
The bits sticking out the top are bits of mild steel that I turned to 20 mm diameter and drilled/counterbored for an M6 cap screw.
They drop into the holes on the bench and provide the rails for my recently-made router slide to run on:
Now I can "machine" the top of a piece of wood up to 350 mm wide and up to about 1.1 m long and can handle any thickness up to 60 mm.
I had a bit of (just under 30 mm thick) oak that had been planed on one side so I thought I'd try that as it saves faffing with shims to get the first side flat.
I'd originally planned to hold it down with double-sided tape as I did with the small bit of walnut I tested before getting the long extrusion lengths, but I don't think the board was flat enough or the tape was too old or something, so I held it down by running a bead of hot melt glue round the edge. Note to self: I don't need hot melt all the way round - it's stronger than you'd expect!
Half-way across:
I did one pass running front to back (moving sideways until the previous cut line was roughly in the middle of the slide and then pulling the router towards me and then pushing it back to the back). I then did a pass at the same height setting going left-to-right/right-to-left, moving the router towards me by approximately the full (25 mm) width of the cutter after each pass. The whole board took less than 10 minutes at a guess, although I didn't actually look at the clock before or after!
All finished (and sawdust everywhere!)
After tidying up a bit:
It leaves some streaks in the wood, but they're very light:
I took a hand plane, withdrew the blade and then gradually moved it back out until it just started to touch the wood. One very quick and very light pass and the streaks are gone:
Then I just had to get all the hot melt glue off! Next time I'll probably just put a few small hot melt glue blobs around the rim - I'm sure that would be enough.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Bit of fun the last few days and some of last night.
This nice, but not working Optimus Vertical Paraffin Blow torch.
There was a lot wrong with it.
Apart from it being dirty and rusty.
In bits.
First issue.
There should be a cotton wick in the pick up tube for the jets.
It was a stinking rotting mess in the body.
Water had got in.
It was so bad it didn't burn.
The main issue.
The pump.
Damaged to the RHS thread. Meaning the cap doesn't always stay in place when pumping.
The washer was one of my spares and was fitted to test the assembly.
But the non return valve is seized. Some one tried to unscrew it.
Not a good idea.
We shaping the shroud.
Using wood to ease it back to shape. Then a shaped bit tapped in to lift that dent out.
Assembled.
Well then.
It was polished up and coated with clear coat.
The pump has been sent of to Base Camp to identify it and supply me spares.
Many thanks to Mike at Base camp for his help.
This nice, but not working Optimus Vertical Paraffin Blow torch.
There was a lot wrong with it.
Apart from it being dirty and rusty.
In bits.
First issue.
There should be a cotton wick in the pick up tube for the jets.
It was a stinking rotting mess in the body.
Water had got in.
It was so bad it didn't burn.
The main issue.
The pump.
Damaged to the RHS thread. Meaning the cap doesn't always stay in place when pumping.
The washer was one of my spares and was fitted to test the assembly.
But the non return valve is seized. Some one tried to unscrew it.
Not a good idea.
We shaping the shroud.
Using wood to ease it back to shape. Then a shaped bit tapped in to lift that dent out.
Assembled.
Well then.
It was polished up and coated with clear coat.
The pump has been sent of to Base Camp to identify it and supply me spares.
Many thanks to Mike at Base camp for his help.
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Wrapped this up this morning...last bits stuck on. Been a bit of a fill in job.
Basic fabricated frame, heat pump fitted and all piped up, various valves, glycol dosing pots etc. 3 more to do over the next few months.
Insulation installed by a specialist.
Wire in, connect up the pipes and it's ready to roll.
Basic fabricated frame, heat pump fitted and all piped up, various valves, glycol dosing pots etc. 3 more to do over the next few months.
Insulation installed by a specialist.
Wire in, connect up the pipes and it's ready to roll.
My Old Landy
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Tidied up the lathe area and made some tooling racks.
Olderisbetter
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That is very useful and why don't trend or someone make a tool for doing this, many times i could have used something like that, good work.
Dr.Al
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Thanks. I don't know why trend or someone don't make a tool like this. Having said that, it was really easy to make: you only really need a length of angle (to cut up and screw together) and two lengths of material that are the same thickness as one another. The UHMW tape helps a lot as well, but that wasn't especially expensive.
slim_boy_fat
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Too late to this party now
, but did you consider a spiral staircase?Aye, I think we've all had one of those.
Knife is coming along nicely! 
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Not enough room. The upstairs hallway is only 1.4 wide.Too late to this party now
Really tight on space
Customers wanted oak.
I gave em oak.
Migmac
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Too late to this party now
Aye, I think we've all had one of those.
Thanks, everything is made. Just need the hardware and polishing bits and pieces to arrive. Then I can put it all together The lock knife is certainly more involved than a sheath knife. Actually think I’ve enjoyed it more. Getting everything to fit and move as required was a bit of a challenge.
Great job, I've been meaning to make a sled for mine for a long time now,.....did your saw have the 'claws' either side of the blade? I'm guessing that it's OK to totally remove these? I can't recall seeing them in use once a sled is fitted??
Brad93
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No problem. Looking good.
Today have made myself hurt a little bit.
Between myself and 2 mates moved a tyre changer to a storage unit and cleared the space and then refilled it with my tool box.
So now I have got majority of my tools at home which is going to help massively as I have been struggling for 2years with very limited tools in the garage.
Between myself and 2 mates moved a tyre changer to a storage unit and cleared the space and then refilled it with my tool box.
So now I have got majority of my tools at home which is going to help massively as I have been struggling for 2years with very limited tools in the garage.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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In between sleep(little), coffee(lots) self centred idiots(One) and Google experts(2 in real life) I managed to crack on and do things.
A small little job.
Not floor space, but a small wooden kicker for @Dr.Al Vice.
When I get a new spring made, with help, it may be going to a MIS.
Until then It is a dust magnet.
The turned wood allows it to be dragged across the floor with out damage to the floor of the leg.
The wood was turned down from pith pine the drowned in oil/wax.
Pleasant job and one in witch I good switch the outside world off.
A small little job.
Not floor space, but a small wooden kicker for @Dr.Al Vice.
When I get a new spring made, with help, it may be going to a MIS.
Until then It is a dust magnet.
The turned wood allows it to be dragged across the floor with out damage to the floor of the leg.
The wood was turned down from pith pine the drowned in oil/wax.
Pleasant job and one in witch I good switch the outside world off.
Lazurus
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The claws are to stop kickback as is the riving knife - be sure you know what you are doing if you remove either and or the guard. (Acceptable HSE in the states - but they have far more accidents than the uk!!)
Great job, I've been meaning to make a sled for mine for a long time now,.....did your saw have the 'claws' either side of the blade? I'm guessing that it's OK to totally remove these? I can't recall seeing them in use once a sled is fitted??
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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A few days ago I got this Dental Flask Press.
It was seized, rusty and pitted.
I was expecting a challenge with, heat, oil, levers, coffee, freezer spray, coffee and bad words.
But a few drops of my penetrating oil it came to bits, Oh yes a few "Please move taps" with my hammer.
NB @Parm My Hammer.
Sadly time had removed any hint of paint, Google was not a lot of use.
Hitting the rust back with a angle grinder wire brush. The other 2 parts are in the background.
This is worth noting.
See the pitting, that was caused by the glue of an old label still trapping moisture underneath of it.
There was 3 more like this. Nice rectangle areas of pitting.
This gave me an idea, but I needed coffee, so I had 2.
Coated in a paste of Citric acid, distilled water and a few drops of liquid soap.
This ensures the rust in the pits and the casting flaws gets treated.
What I can find out this model is at least 60 to 100 years old, casting floors would be frowned at the final finish, my coffee fuelled plan was taking shape.
Washed cleaned and attacked with 400 grit wet and dry, used dry.
The light grey is lead loading. Looks easy, can be done. I need a bit more practise. I know modern fillers can be used. This was more fun.
The screw holding the working face in place was:
Badly damaged.
Wrong Thread.
Wrong designe.
When putting the pressure on the flask, you want the working face to remain loose, not twisting on the flask. When the pressure is reached. The flask is closed and the plastic excess is excluded you want to lack it up.
Hence the wing nut.
The hex head was cut off and the end rounded over with a Bastard cut file, then smooth cut.
The wooden base. With chocolate washers. No Leather.
Now this wood is off the pine family. But To help seal it and give it colour I went over it with a propane torch. Then sanded it back.
It will get a lot of coats of Teak oil.
Finished.
Under the base of the press are 14 1/4" leather washers. This is to lift the base up.
To allow air to flow through and not trap moisture. The leather washers were stamped out.
Then placed in a back with wax and nail varnish remover.
You remove all the air from the plastic bag, place the bag under a book for a few hours.
Cheep pressure treating leather washers. They are not glued, the striation from the wax was good enough to hold them in place.
It was seized, rusty and pitted.
I was expecting a challenge with, heat, oil, levers, coffee, freezer spray, coffee and bad words.
But a few drops of my penetrating oil it came to bits, Oh yes a few "Please move taps" with my hammer.
NB @Parm My Hammer.
Sadly time had removed any hint of paint, Google was not a lot of use.
Hitting the rust back with a angle grinder wire brush. The other 2 parts are in the background.
This is worth noting.
See the pitting, that was caused by the glue of an old label still trapping moisture underneath of it.
There was 3 more like this. Nice rectangle areas of pitting.
This gave me an idea, but I needed coffee, so I had 2.
Coated in a paste of Citric acid, distilled water and a few drops of liquid soap.
This ensures the rust in the pits and the casting flaws gets treated.
What I can find out this model is at least 60 to 100 years old, casting floors would be frowned at the final finish, my coffee fuelled plan was taking shape.
Washed cleaned and attacked with 400 grit wet and dry, used dry.
The light grey is lead loading. Looks easy, can be done. I need a bit more practise. I know modern fillers can be used. This was more fun.
The screw holding the working face in place was:
Badly damaged.
Wrong Thread.
Wrong designe.
When putting the pressure on the flask, you want the working face to remain loose, not twisting on the flask. When the pressure is reached. The flask is closed and the plastic excess is excluded you want to lack it up.
Hence the wing nut.
The hex head was cut off and the end rounded over with a Bastard cut file, then smooth cut.
The wooden base. With chocolate washers. No Leather.
Now this wood is off the pine family. But To help seal it and give it colour I went over it with a propane torch. Then sanded it back.
It will get a lot of coats of Teak oil.
Finished.
Under the base of the press are 14 1/4" leather washers. This is to lift the base up.
To allow air to flow through and not trap moisture. The leather washers were stamped out.
Then placed in a back with wax and nail varnish remover.
You remove all the air from the plastic bag, place the bag under a book for a few hours.
Cheep pressure treating leather washers. They are not glued, the striation from the wax was good enough to hold them in place.
