Stuff you have made today

[Scruffywelder]

That’s the plan. Not sure on price of an alternator and I don’t know if we’d need to replace anything else. It’s got an electronic ignition fitted so I’m hoping that doesn’t need to go.

Pretty sure one of my parents neighbours converted a TED20 to 12V and used the original starter motor.

I converted my old DB 780 to alternator a few years back using IIRC a transit van alternator with an internal regulator. It's pretty straightforward, especially if you buy a suitable alternator plug kit. I wouldn't bother trying to reuse the original harness for charging... just saving up problems for yourself...

Alternatively, if you fancy the original look:
http://www.accuspark.co.uk/dynamator.htm

Kinda pricey though...

 

[mr migwire]

finished off the roof bars and figured out the clamps to hold them in place, not pretty but they work.

 

[gaz1]

they may look ok but they are not

they are ok for downward force but not with weight on going round a corner you will find the top will splay either side of the van due to there height of them and also the pull force around the corner

its why box section design is used or indents are used on roof rack systems

https://www.google.com/search?q=hig...hUKEwi8mpPBt8rqAhVQRhUIHZ5LBDgQ_AUoAnoECAwQBA

 

[bigegg]

they may look ok but they are not

they are ok for downward force but not with weight on going round a corner you will find the top will splay either side of the van due to there height of them and also the pull force around the corner

its why box section design is used or indents are used on roof rack systems

@mr migwire :
+1 on this.
I'd consider welding a piece of 1" angle to the outside, and maybe a gusset inside.
Its not pleasant when you turn left and your fence panels go straight on.
(DAMHIKT! )

 

[My Old Landy]

What happened? I use resin quite a bit looks like the chuck blew it apart

It did, the force of me digging in a skew chisel and too shallow a mortice tore it out the chuck. I am learning, it was the second piece I have turned since getting the lathe.
Trying to run before learning to walk

This is today's go.

Something a little more in my skill set!

 

[Lazurus]

Thats a great second effort a nice proportioned piece - skews are the tools of the Devil but are so useful. Catches are all part of the learning curve, the field beside my workshop has a few items that went airborn in frustration.

 

[Wedg1e]

It's Shackletime! Wings on, 2 out of the 6 engine pods in place (4 x Griffon, 2 x Viper). Tailplane on hopefully by the end of the weekend. Thousands of BSF bolts to do up but nobody else has any correct spanners. Duh!

Among my customers are the RAF techs whose weekends sometimes revolve around x-raying the aircraft of the BBMF. They used to have a squad at St. Athan (in fact the RAF's x-ray training school was there)...

 

[3000alloy]

Today I made a mess. Stripping the Nuffield 10/60. Changing gear box gaskets.

 

[Dr.Al]

Spent the evening (as so many others!) sorting out storage.

First I epoxied a bit of mild steel to the back of my Allen key set:

Then I made a rack (well, finished one I started yesterday) for stuff that sticks to magnets (and finally found a home for this set of Allen keys):

Then I started thinking about a better place to store the long lengths of t-slot extrusion that form the rails for my router-planing-jig-thing. It occurred to me I could use the slots and some spare t-nuts to attach them to the ceiling. I had some M6 screw-in threaded insert things, so I inserted four of them into the roof joists and added some long M6 grub screws (with thread locking compound to hold them in place). I then added the t-nuts, thus:

A bit of hot-glue stops the t-nuts unscrewing, but will hopefully be removable if required:

Four of them in place:

and the t-slot extrusion slides in nicely:

One of the (relatively few in my opinion) advantages of being 1.98 m (6'6") tall is that I can make full use of the roof for storage! A few other random shots:

 

[Johnnybravo]

Spent the evening (as so many others!) sorting out storage.

First I epoxied a bit of mild steel to the back of my Allen key set:

View attachment 241479

Then I made a rack (well, finished one I started yesterday) for stuff that sticks to magnets (and finally found a home for this set of Allen keys):

View attachment 241478

Then I started thinking about a better place to store the long lengths of t-slot extrusion that form the rails for my router-planing-jig-thing. It occurred to me I could use the slots and some spare t-nuts to attach them to the ceiling. I had some M6 screw-in threaded insert things, so I inserted four of them into the roof joists and added some long M6 grub screws (with thread locking compound to hold them in place). I then added the t-nuts, thus:

View attachment 241481

A bit of hot-glue stops the t-nuts unscrewing, but will hopefully be removable if required:

View attachment 241482

Four of them in place:

View attachment 241483

and the t-slot extrusion slides in nicely:

View attachment 241484

One of the (relatively few in my opinion) advantages of being 1.98 m (6'6") tall is that I can make full use of the roof for storage! A few other random shots:

View attachment 241486

View attachment 241487

View attachment 241488

Some nice ideas there. Personally I cannot stand magnetised tools. Does my head in picking up an Allen key or screwdriver with swarf or grinding dust stuck to it...

 

[Woody.v8]

When you can't get the bolts you need in bzp....

 

[DennisCA]

made some bread

 

[Agroshield]

...View attachment 241478...

Maybe it is trick of perspective but the top row of chisels look to have interesting laceration potential when using the electrical socket.

 

[Dr.Al]

Some nice ideas there. Personally I cannot stand magnetised tools. Does my head in picking up an Allen key or screwdriver with swarf or grinding dust stuck to it...

I know what you mean about magnetic tools. I have two distinct areas in my garage: one for metalwork and one for woodwork. I'm very careful to ensure the swarf doesn't go up the woodworking end (mainly because of my motorbike which is in the woodworking end - I don't want holes in my tyres!). I don't use magnets like this up the metalworking end and I keep a demagnetiser on hand for tools that start collecting swarf. That Allen key set is just for that end of the garage - I have quite a few sets!

Maybe it is trick of perspective but the top row of chisels look to have interesting laceration potential when using the electrical socket.

I see what you mean, but in practice it isn't a problem: one plug is for the garage door and the other is for the Makita battery charger. They haven't been unplugged since the first time they were plugged in. I use the switch for the battery charger, but otherwise don't touch the socket at all. There are 6 more sockets on the wall lower down (you can see one in the bottom left of the picture): I use those when I need to plug something in.

 

[mtt.tr]

Cant hook is working now, though needs some refinement yet I think.

Brilliant tools

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This item was part of a bigger item I acquired the other day.



A lump of crud, plaster and who knows what else. But I did recognise the basic shape and its main use.




The 3 main parts.
The Middle and RHS are after it was attacked with a brass scrapper. The LHS you can see how bad it was.



This is after boiling it in Vinegar and water. Followed by sitting by the fire pit, with beer and some metal polish.
Oddly a pleasant way to chill out.




Finished, polished and the lettering filled with a hard wax.

A lot of history on that one small item.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

This item was part of a bigger item I acquired the other day.

My first glance at the first pic and I thought it was a very poorly made burger.....

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

^^^^^^^
That was a smaller part of something bigger.



Turn of the Century Dental flask pressure oven.
This was a nice find, it was complete and would of been un use up to about the mid 1970's.
It is gas heated, originally designed to use "Town Gas" but they were in use with modern gas and a regulator.

This was a great talking point and I chose to restore it with out using power tools, unless I really had too.



This and a bundle of wire wool, emery cloth and paint was all that was used on the strip down, clean up and rebuild.
Only one item failed or broke. That was a BA screw holding the time peace on.

One nod to modern H&S.
There was a gasket in the lid. Not knowing if it was asbestos, it was not disturbed.
The metal round it w de-rusted using of the shelf de-ruster. Then sealed with a clear coat.
To clean the rust of the rest.
It was coated in flour vinegar and water and wrapped in "kling-film".



This is all the bits.
The brass items placed in vinegar and water, the steel parts in Citric acid.



The 3 main parts of a Town gas burner. The brass part you can see is used to control the heat of the flame. I had it tested and it does work. But the correct regulator is not on any budget to be found.
I would like some orange tradition gas pipe, but we will see.




This is the Time indicator. A simple device to tell the dental Technician when the flasks would be ready. It went from a manule through to clock work. Then electric when the ovens went to electric power.



Polished up. The brass is very bad and the black marks did not come out. The marks were fading, but the brass was thinning.

The metal under the paint layers was bad, this is what was under the time peace.
So after soaking in the citric acid and a wire brush. Yes, a power tool, but needs must.




A nod to the past.
This filler is resin and hardener, mixed with lead powder and talcum powder. A tradition mix.

Wet and dry, with lots of warm water was used to flatten it back and fill the pits. 3 times I filled and sanded. Baking dry between layers.




The pressure water tank.

This is how it came out of the vinegar bath.
The brown/red stains are in the metal in the casting flaws. They are deep and some are impossible to remove by hand.
I had thought about having it blasted clean. But that way you will loose any historical marks.






Finished.
Well no.
I have to make a base for it, again out of wood.
The unit has cost me time only to restore. All paint and sundry items were what I had in the play pen.

The pressure gauge is dead. There no plans to restore it or replace it.
Yet.

The final colours were as close to original as I could find. The red and yellow were the layers close to the metal.
The black was as well, but there was a coat of Olive drab on the whole assembly.



Yes, I have put the premature baby denture flask with it as well.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

My first glance at the first pic and I thought it was a very poorly made burger.....

I knew you lot North of the wall had some odd taste, but...........

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Just as I was writing the above an E mail arrived from General Dental Council.

The reason for the Olive drab was explained.
During both world wars there was tests and experiments in moulding metal and plastic parts together.
Some of the dental pressures ovens were taken up by the War department and used for test ones and small batches to test ideas.
Mainly for proximity fuse in Anti Aircraft munitions.
Something what came into force during the battle of Britain (early ground to air fuses) and then in the operations against the Japanese. Were the shell just needed to work near a target, not by hitting the target.

They could not give me any more details that that.
What is a shame.