Brad93
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- Messages
- 18,418
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Blimey you’ve been busy. Looks heavy dirty.Sliding gate to replace one destroyed by thieves. I made rollers with truck unit bearings View attachment 249204View attachment 249206
Blimey you’ve been busy. Looks heavy dirty.Sliding gate to replace one destroyed by thieves. I made rollers with truck unit bearings View attachment 249204View attachment 249206
Interested to see the rolling mechanism.Sliding gate to replace one destroyed by thieves. I made rollers with truck unit bearings View attachment 249204View attachment 249206
and not farmer proof
The paint is meant to be heat resistance on the shield and the burner coil.
Halfords were not all that honest about that.
A email has been sent complaining about the so called heat resistance range of paint.
I've used VHT heat resistant paint before now. I originally thought it was no good because I hadn't read the instructions, and not heated the item up before applying the paint. Even when I did that, though, it still comes off as soon as it's handled. I've read good reports on B&Q Barbecue paint, but not tried it myself.
Her manager tried to say they could not give a refund on items used. Until I explained to her that:
"How do I know if Halfords Heat Resistance paint was not going to work with out trying?"
Just this once then, the till lady even said sorry about her.
But, I am going to use it and rub it over with clean engine oil.
That's comedy!
Like that, I’ve got all the bits scattered around here to make something similar.A welly rack, made for a friend
View attachment 249265
I had a nightmare returning some paint to ScrewYouFix as the guy was being a jobsworth. After having a stand off he bent over & gave me a refundAll to common, staff who do not know their own ranges, or unwilling to get kelp.
I hope over the boarder to Somerset and a Halfords there, completely difference, or to the next B&Q, helpful staff.
Locals ones have life forms from the lower end of the gene pool.
The design, if you can call it that, involved what was in the shed. The horse shoes from Hotponyshoes a good while ago. ThanksLike that, I’ve got all the bits scattered around here to make something similar.
Today I put a drawer where there wasn't really space for a drawer.
This is what it looks like:
View attachment 235101
The upright bits screwed to the workbench top are 18 mm plywood, but the right hand one has been thinned down to 12 mm for about 35 mm depth. When I made my router table recently (out of 30 mm square aluminium extrusion), I designed it to mount onto the bench and arbitrarily decided that it should sit 12 mm from the end of the workbench. It felt too hard to move the router table's 6 mm diameter mounting holes 6 mm to the left, so I just made the drawer support a bit narrower so the router table can slot in above the drawer. It also leaves plenty of room above the drawer for F-clamps to hold bits of material sticking off the end of the bench to be cut off or whatever.
The drawer has very low sides (height chosen as I had some off-cuts in that size) such that the sharpening stones that live in this drawer protrude above the top of the drawer sides:
View attachment 235102
That skateboard bearing on the bottom is spring-loaded into the block of aluminium (note to self: I must get better at cleaning marker pen off things when I've finished making them!). It runs on the bottom of the drawer. Close-up:
View attachment 235103
There's a circular groove of about the same diameter as the bearing (a bit like a slot for a Woodruff key) that was cut with the flat part of a rounding-over bit in a router. When the drawer is half-way out, the bearing drops into the groove and locks the drawer in place:
View attachment 235107
The marks on the bottom of the plywood are there because I used to use that bit of plywood as a don't-mind-if-it-gets-damp-and-grimy surface on top of my bench for sharpening.
The bearing locks the drawer into this position:
View attachment 235109
Just far enough out that I can use the sharpening stones for a quick touch up of a tool (the drawer moves around slightly, but not enough to affect the sharpening operation and I can always shove my hip against it to hold it firmly in place if I'm trying to do a fairly aggressive grind). I then just pull the handle on the bottom of the bearing down and can either pull the drawer all the way out or push it back out of the way.
I used it this afternoon to sharpen all of my plane blades and it worked really well. Being lower than bench height means that I can lock my elbows while holding the blades, move my shoulders around and sharpen the secondary bevel really comfortably.
shear laziness on my part, had to knock some scale off before buffing with the flapper so did what any self respecting home bodger would do, looked at the grinder and thought, "theres enough threads showing on that to hold a cup brush for a quick job" very red neck but did the job,Like the combination wire wheel flap disc,is that for when you slip off the edge wire brushing,you automatically bevel the edge to 120grit..
Yes I’m going to be on a long shelf with 6 holes in it so I can have it mounted to a wall but easily pull rods out when I need them.