Many thanks, I'll have a look and read. It's to upgrade a Chester 16v, don't have the space for a "big" mill but would like something with a bit more rigidity.
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Many thanks, I'll have a look and read. It's to upgrade a Chester 16v, don't have the space for a "big" mill but would like something with a bit more rigidity.
James1979
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Thats mega. I want to make one for my god daughter
Westfield-builder
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Never mind your god- daughter, I want the young fella to come and do my lawn !
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
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Fraserb
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It didn't actually start as a Christmas present, but it's worked out OK.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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You need never worry about your drive and weeds, from now on.
decca
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- Crawcrook, Gateshead.
Top job. Like the way the arms retract and then lower to park themselves. That mechanism must have taken a bit of figuring out.
Great work.
Fraserb
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The boom rests and such are a blatant copy of my real sprayer, getting the geometry and such right took some getting right though.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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I got this Stanley 400, adjustable Mitre clamp.
Well a lump of seized rusty metal in the shape of the Stanley 400.
Nothing moved on it.
Not even tapping with a hammer and adjustable's shifted it.
It took a lot of heat, oil and a lot of force to get it to move and finally into bits.
Only one fixing failed, that was the 3/8th whit screw fixing the table to the lower turntable..
Here the rust doesn't look to bad, but what little there was had locked it solid.
A week in citric acid had the rust removed, a pressure wash clean. Then 10 minutes on a TYA Hot plate had it dry and clean.
Primmer and a few coats of top coat had it finished.
One new bolt was found and fitted and bow it sits waiting it's future.
Well a lump of seized rusty metal in the shape of the Stanley 400.
Nothing moved on it.
Not even tapping with a hammer and adjustable's shifted it.
It took a lot of heat, oil and a lot of force to get it to move and finally into bits.
Only one fixing failed, that was the 3/8th whit screw fixing the table to the lower turntable..
Here the rust doesn't look to bad, but what little there was had locked it solid.
A week in citric acid had the rust removed, a pressure wash clean. Then 10 minutes on a TYA Hot plate had it dry and clean.
Primmer and a few coats of top coat had it finished.
One new bolt was found and fitted and bow it sits waiting it's future.
Fraserb
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- Location
- Scottish Borders
redlig
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- wiltshire uk
Brilliant and the look on the little lads face makes it all worthwhile .
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
A nice slow day, nice coffee, nice food, a beer or 2.
A bit (tiny) of tiding the workshop. But a few guest and coffee stopped to much of that.
But a few things got sorted.
This SIF Drill was dirty, some rust but in good condition.
So as I had a guest from MIS, I fired up the coffee make and switched on the music.
In bits, not fully. Past experience has tought me that if the pins are to tight. Removing them can fracture the frame.
So we left them.
Today I was just the host, coffee supplier and tech advise.
Step one, clean up and French polish the handles. The frame was cleaned up with a wire brush and chemical blacked.
Rest of the metal work was cleaned up, painted. Oddly the quick drying paint was just that, pain and quick drying.
The 3 springs in the jars are in goo condition, but the chuck shows signs of being attacked with pliers. The witness marks had to be dressed back with a file.
The gearing is nice and slow, but plenty fast enough for holes up to 1/4" 6mm.
The Photo Trimmer.
The glue joints had dried out, the metal work was rusty, but the cutting edges were, even more so now, very sharp.
In bits, but not easy.
All the fixings, steel screes and in beech had seized.
So, take a soldering iron and warm the crews up. Don't use a naked flame, you want the heat to conduct down the screw and expand. This breaks the stiction between the metal and the wood.
Spot the new wood?
RHS frame, RHS edge. The original had to many splits and additional holes. Old attempts at fixings the splits caused by older repairs..
Take some old wood and use the old one as a pattern. Fix and glue.
Then using "Meths." and wire wool. Clean up, making sure you slop and spread the dirt and grime form the old wood onto the new bit.
It wil l never hide it completely, but it will help.
Boiling the metal up in washing powder, the drill was in there as well.
It stunk, time for another coffee and a biscuits.
Done.
Sadly, it is for display now. The spring in the blade hinge broke. So the main blade does not hold true against the fixed blade.
But.
Got to use the glue pot as a hot wax/oil pot.
A bit (tiny) of tiding the workshop. But a few guest and coffee stopped to much of that.
But a few things got sorted.
This SIF Drill was dirty, some rust but in good condition.
So as I had a guest from MIS, I fired up the coffee make and switched on the music.
In bits, not fully. Past experience has tought me that if the pins are to tight. Removing them can fracture the frame.
So we left them.
Today I was just the host, coffee supplier and tech advise.
Step one, clean up and French polish the handles. The frame was cleaned up with a wire brush and chemical blacked.
Rest of the metal work was cleaned up, painted. Oddly the quick drying paint was just that, pain and quick drying.
The 3 springs in the jars are in goo condition, but the chuck shows signs of being attacked with pliers. The witness marks had to be dressed back with a file.
The gearing is nice and slow, but plenty fast enough for holes up to 1/4" 6mm.
The Photo Trimmer.
The glue joints had dried out, the metal work was rusty, but the cutting edges were, even more so now, very sharp.
In bits, but not easy.
All the fixings, steel screes and in beech had seized.
So, take a soldering iron and warm the crews up. Don't use a naked flame, you want the heat to conduct down the screw and expand. This breaks the stiction between the metal and the wood.
Spot the new wood?
RHS frame, RHS edge. The original had to many splits and additional holes. Old attempts at fixings the splits caused by older repairs..
Take some old wood and use the old one as a pattern. Fix and glue.
Then using "Meths." and wire wool. Clean up, making sure you slop and spread the dirt and grime form the old wood onto the new bit.
It wil l never hide it completely, but it will help.
Boiling the metal up in washing powder, the drill was in there as well.
It stunk, time for another coffee and a biscuits.
Done.
Sadly, it is for display now. The spring in the blade hinge broke. So the main blade does not hold true against the fixed blade.
But.
Got to use the glue pot as a hot wax/oil pot.
today I was making some parts for a plastic model boat out of styrene as Im not happy with the ones that came in the model. styrene can be bent and shaped if heated in boiling water and cooling again to retain the shape. this is the part Im wanting to replicate, and its the U channel thats made from H section rod and the rod is 2mm x 2mm so pretty small
first I made a former from 2mm thick aluminium pieces and fixed a piece of styrene to it.
then put it in some boiling water for 30 seconds, take it out and bend the styrene to the U section
the problem with styrene is that it has a memory and needs to be clamped until cool or it well partially go back to its original shape. So after thinking about this for a while can up with the idea of using heat shrink tubing for electrical cables to do the clamping.
so put the tubing on and stick it back in the boiling water for another minute. as the tubing heats up it shrinks and and clamps the styrene to the former.
but it in cold water and there you go, a bit of lateral thinking and it became a much easier job. I only need 2 of these sections so made 3, show with the former and a penny for size.
first I made a former from 2mm thick aluminium pieces and fixed a piece of styrene to it.
then put it in some boiling water for 30 seconds, take it out and bend the styrene to the U section
the problem with styrene is that it has a memory and needs to be clamped until cool or it well partially go back to its original shape. So after thinking about this for a while can up with the idea of using heat shrink tubing for electrical cables to do the clamping.
so put the tubing on and stick it back in the boiling water for another minute. as the tubing heats up it shrinks and and clamps the styrene to the former.
but it in cold water and there you go, a bit of lateral thinking and it became a much easier job. I only need 2 of these sections so made 3, show with the former and a penny for size.
Olderisbetter
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Fitted this today but finished it christmas eve, a door to separate customers from the tea making area in the shop its ok for left over bits.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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More trying old methods.
Only for the fun.
This set of 50 Venires.
As you can see the box is caked in crud, dirt, wax, oil and workss hop detritus.
But the contents were in good condition.
The only thing that was.
One hinge broken, one seized. So bad the screws had pulled out the box. The last one held in by nails!!!!!!!!!!!
Outside both catches were long gone.
The box frame was loose as well.
To be honest, it was only the fact the box matched the contents, the serial numbers, made me think about keeping it.
Below is a few images on how bad the case was covered in dirt.
It was thick, sticky and in all not pleasant.
But a lot of work in one corner showed me I had a up hill climb.
That one corner took 45 minutes.
A mix of using a scarper, wire wool and meths. Half a cup of meths and a big hand full of wire wool.
But it show the box had a possible future.
So it had a bath.
Hot water, Flash for the first try. Then washing powder and a pack of cheep scrubbing brushes.
OH, my did it stink.
This mark, the "B86" is found on the box and on the tool.
Cleaned and waxed to an inch of it's life.
I saved 2 hinges, dam odd design. So no spares did I have.
But I did locate some ex MOD box latches.
You can see the lid and the box came up well.
Unless I sanded it back to bare wood I was never going to loose the marks. But the marks are it's history.
When the dirt was removed I managed to make new pins, welding wire, and secure the lid with glue and pins.
When the glue was dry the pins were removed and wax was used to fill the holes.
Yes, as of now I have no idea what I will do with them.
Only for the fun.
This set of 50 Venires.
As you can see the box is caked in crud, dirt, wax, oil and workss hop detritus.
But the contents were in good condition.
The only thing that was.
One hinge broken, one seized. So bad the screws had pulled out the box. The last one held in by nails!!!!!!!!!!!
Outside both catches were long gone.
The box frame was loose as well.
To be honest, it was only the fact the box matched the contents, the serial numbers, made me think about keeping it.
Below is a few images on how bad the case was covered in dirt.
It was thick, sticky and in all not pleasant.
But a lot of work in one corner showed me I had a up hill climb.
That one corner took 45 minutes.
A mix of using a scarper, wire wool and meths. Half a cup of meths and a big hand full of wire wool.
But it show the box had a possible future.
So it had a bath.
Hot water, Flash for the first try. Then washing powder and a pack of cheep scrubbing brushes.
OH, my did it stink.
This mark, the "B86" is found on the box and on the tool.
Cleaned and waxed to an inch of it's life.
I saved 2 hinges, dam odd design. So no spares did I have.
But I did locate some ex MOD box latches.
You can see the lid and the box came up well.
Unless I sanded it back to bare wood I was never going to loose the marks. But the marks are it's history.
When the dirt was removed I managed to make new pins, welding wire, and secure the lid with glue and pins.
When the glue was dry the pins were removed and wax was used to fill the holes.
Yes, as of now I have no idea what I will do with them.
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