The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
Still warm.
Smells like bacon butty soon.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Still warm.
Smells like bacon butty soon.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
Busy day here, mad day as well, plus a trip out.
Such is the joy of life.
The last few days I was lucky to aquire some bits.
Two Mitre Squares.
This one was looking good. But it had been cleaned what had removed the clear coat on the metal and damaged the finish on the stock.
The few spots of rust were treated with a drop of hot citric acid, then using a fiber glass cleaning tool scrubbed clean.
Then warm wax/oil was applied and buffed up.
This one had not bean cleaned, but something ahd been applied what was a bloody terrible stick mess.
Meths and a 0000 wire wool was used to clean up and remove the mess.
Then a nice bee's wax was applied.
Both finished, the darker shade one has some weight behind it. It has a name stamped into it. But it has been worn away so getting full details is difficult.
I also got two types of Jewellers "Meth's." fuelled torches.
This is an automatic version.
The LHS one is filled with meths, as it the RHS one.
The LHS cap is removed and a set alight.. When the flame burns blue, the RHS one is raised and the pipe placed into the flame.
In a few minutes a jet emerges from the pipe.
The pipe should have a nozzle fitted. I am hunting for a set.
This Brass one is a smaller version of one I owned before.
The cap is removed and filled with Meths, set alight. A tube is attached to the bottom and you blow and a hot jet is produced.
Both have been polished up and Machine wax applied.
The three wood and brass calipers and the brass one have been cleaned up.
The wood drank Linseed oil like @barking mat in a free bar.
After an hour they stopped and a shine was produced.
The brass one used needed a polish. That showed up the government stamp. Plus a number. It looks like it was designed to be used with munitions and is dated 1937.
The RHS one is RN Rope and cordage gage.
This slater's hammer has had a hard life. The shaft has been trimmed down at one point. The head shows the wear of a hard life/
This time I chose only to "tart it up" to a usable state. As any more would of destroyed the look.
The head was buffed up with a wire brush, the cheeks on the head had spread out a bit so they were dressed back and using a ball pein hammer the rivets tightened up.
The shaft was hit hard with medium wire wool and "Meths.".
Then with hot wax polished up.
It is a very tactile tool.
Such is the joy of life.
The last few days I was lucky to aquire some bits.
Two Mitre Squares.
This one was looking good. But it had been cleaned what had removed the clear coat on the metal and damaged the finish on the stock.
The few spots of rust were treated with a drop of hot citric acid, then using a fiber glass cleaning tool scrubbed clean.
Then warm wax/oil was applied and buffed up.
This one had not bean cleaned, but something ahd been applied what was a bloody terrible stick mess.
Meths and a 0000 wire wool was used to clean up and remove the mess.
Then a nice bee's wax was applied.
Both finished, the darker shade one has some weight behind it. It has a name stamped into it. But it has been worn away so getting full details is difficult.
I also got two types of Jewellers "Meth's." fuelled torches.
This is an automatic version.
The LHS one is filled with meths, as it the RHS one.
The LHS cap is removed and a set alight.. When the flame burns blue, the RHS one is raised and the pipe placed into the flame.
In a few minutes a jet emerges from the pipe.
The pipe should have a nozzle fitted. I am hunting for a set.
This Brass one is a smaller version of one I owned before.
The cap is removed and filled with Meths, set alight. A tube is attached to the bottom and you blow and a hot jet is produced.
Both have been polished up and Machine wax applied.
The three wood and brass calipers and the brass one have been cleaned up.
The wood drank Linseed oil like @barking mat in a free bar.
After an hour they stopped and a shine was produced.
The brass one used needed a polish. That showed up the government stamp. Plus a number. It looks like it was designed to be used with munitions and is dated 1937.
The RHS one is RN Rope and cordage gage.
This slater's hammer has had a hard life. The shaft has been trimmed down at one point. The head shows the wear of a hard life/
This time I chose only to "tart it up" to a usable state. As any more would of destroyed the look.
The head was buffed up with a wire brush, the cheeks on the head had spread out a bit so they were dressed back and using a ball pein hammer the rivets tightened up.
The shaft was hit hard with medium wire wool and "Meths.".
Then with hot wax polished up.
It is a very tactile tool.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
But, I have sinned again.
Well twice.
Sin one.
I made money from a mad lady. The Feng shai lady of the past.
Sin two.
I up cycled, again.
The LHS plant sprayer was acquired ages ago, but it was a pup.
It passed water like........
A sieve.
Fix one leak, then another one appeared. Even making a new base it still leaked.
So it got thrown into a box to await the future.
Well, this morning she appeared and wanted a "Upcycled steam punk brass item" could I help.
She was willing to give me pictures of Lizzy 2.
So I said yes.
Pictures of Lizzy 2 = beer and curry.
Unlike the blow torches I have done recently, they can be returned to use. This one will not be.
But I did salvage all the usefull bits.
Well twice.
Sin one.
I made money from a mad lady. The Feng shai lady of the past.
Sin two.
I up cycled, again.
The LHS plant sprayer was acquired ages ago, but it was a pup.
It passed water like........
A sieve.
Fix one leak, then another one appeared. Even making a new base it still leaked.
So it got thrown into a box to await the future.
Well, this morning she appeared and wanted a "Upcycled steam punk brass item" could I help.
She was willing to give me pictures of Lizzy 2.
So I said yes.
Pictures of Lizzy 2 = beer and curry.
Unlike the blow torches I have done recently, they can be returned to use. This one will not be.
But I did salvage all the usefull bits.
arther dailey
Member
- Messages
- 6,422
- Location
- England
Fed up of detabbing round sections on bike frames...I got myself a cheapo silverline belt sander and picked up some old dynabrade fingers off the bay for peanuts....works a treat. Be handy for exhaust welds when I grind them back flush
View attachment 273144View attachment 273145View attachment 273146View attachment 273147
thats brilliant
zx9
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 5,171
- Location
- South East London
Nice chipping hammer.
decca
Member
- Messages
- 907
- Location
- Crawcrook, Gateshead.
I’ve got one of those Silverline power files, thought it would be pants but it’s one of the most useful tools I have. That looks like an excellent mod.Fed up of detabbing round sections on bike frames...I got myself a cheapo silverline belt sander and picked up some old dynabrade fingers off the bay for peanuts....works a treat. Be handy for exhaust welds when I grind them back flush
View attachment 273144View attachment 273145View attachment 273146View attachment 273147
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,323
- Location
- New Zealand
Nice work
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
Melvyn Best
Member
- Messages
- 1,545
- Location
- Cambridge
Charming
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
Thank you, I try to be.Charming
roblane65
Member
- Messages
- 2,193
- Location
- Newcastle UK
Today I've made the conti plug on the new lincoln
into a 16amp
and a fly lead till I can get proper sockets sorted.
also some paint marker on flow meter as I cant see the markings inside ( peepers are going time for the optician )
marked of at 5 7.5 and 10 Lpm .
into a 16amp
and a fly lead till I can get proper sockets sorted.
also some paint marker on flow meter as I cant see the markings inside ( peepers are going time for the optician )
marked of at 5 7.5 and 10 Lpm .
Blake's 7
Member
- Messages
- 205
- Location
- Ireland
Today I started the major part of the shuttering for a 12" thick concrete head over a new fireplace that was built for me just before Christmas.
I'm using a length of stainless steel pipe wrapped in polythene to form the hole for the flue. The outer diameter of this pipe - minus the polythene - matches exactly the inner diameter of a standard clay flue liner.
The plastic wrap is to assist with the pipe's removal after the concrete has set. The base of the flue is set into a hole in a 12" square piece of plywood which is nailed to the shuttering. The purpose of the plywood is twofold - firstly it ensures that the base of the steel pipe is fixed in place and cannot move whilst the concrete is being poured and secondly when all the shuttering will be removed the plywood will have formed a recess in the bottom of the slab into which I can bolt a plate to close off the opening around the cast iron flue of the stove. I welded a bolt into one end of each of four 12M hexagonal coupler nuts to stop the concrete getting into the top of them and drilled four corresponding sized holes down through the plywood and shuttering. I then fully screwed into the other end of each coupler nut a short piece of threaded bar and securely fixed all of them in place with a washer and nut on the underside of the shuttering.
The horizontal threaded bars in the above photo were used to keep a previous piece of shuttering in place and have nothing (as yet) to do with what I'm working on now.
This is how I ensure that the flue is kept as tight as possible to the shuttering and that there is no fear of it lifting out of the plywood at the base.
Here is the finished result from a previous fireplace.
I'm using a length of stainless steel pipe wrapped in polythene to form the hole for the flue. The outer diameter of this pipe - minus the polythene - matches exactly the inner diameter of a standard clay flue liner.
The plastic wrap is to assist with the pipe's removal after the concrete has set. The base of the flue is set into a hole in a 12" square piece of plywood which is nailed to the shuttering. The purpose of the plywood is twofold - firstly it ensures that the base of the steel pipe is fixed in place and cannot move whilst the concrete is being poured and secondly when all the shuttering will be removed the plywood will have formed a recess in the bottom of the slab into which I can bolt a plate to close off the opening around the cast iron flue of the stove. I welded a bolt into one end of each of four 12M hexagonal coupler nuts to stop the concrete getting into the top of them and drilled four corresponding sized holes down through the plywood and shuttering. I then fully screwed into the other end of each coupler nut a short piece of threaded bar and securely fixed all of them in place with a washer and nut on the underside of the shuttering.
The horizontal threaded bars in the above photo were used to keep a previous piece of shuttering in place and have nothing (as yet) to do with what I'm working on now.
This is how I ensure that the flue is kept as tight as possible to the shuttering and that there is no fear of it lifting out of the plywood at the base.
Here is the finished result from a previous fireplace.
