Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 18,368
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Saw it on facebook in a video, the welding was not good but the idea is good
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 6,859
- Location
- Sussex
I like the gate latch, but..
If the hoop could have plenty of clearance with the side plates that shouldnt be possible. Might hurt or bend fingers, but they'd stay attached.
Somone will say that, and then put fingers in it, open gate and chop then off. If its possible, somone will try it
If the hoop could have plenty of clearance with the side plates that shouldnt be possible. Might hurt or bend fingers, but they'd stay attached.
Prajna
Fixing things for the love of it
- Messages
- 622
- Location
- Castelo Branco, Portugal
It does look like you could trap fingers but in practice fingers don't go into the bitey bits. Engaging the latch is hands free and disengagement is simply a matter of pushing the ring up a little, just past the point where it is locked, which you can do with an open palm. It might be possible to trap fingers but you would have to be pretty unconscious to do so and anyone doing anything that unconsciously could do with a lesson in paying attention!I like the gate latch, but..
Somone will say that, and then put fingers in it, open gate and chop then off. If its possible, somone will try it
If the hoop could have plenty of clearance with the side plates that shouldnt be possible. Might hurt or bend fingers, but they'd stay attached.
Johnnybravo
Member
- Messages
- 3,563
- Location
- Northiam
Machined up a jig today. Want to regrind the chuck jaws as they are bell mouthed. Chuck hasn’t seen much use,so either it was a ***** chuck from Colchester or its been seriously over tightened. Funny thing is it runs pretty much knob on…..
Jan-DIY
Member
- Messages
- 786
- Location
- Lower Saxony Germany
Damn.
Today big boss called.
Massive leaks into passenger cabin.
Try to fix this fuxxing leaking window with some tile adjuster.
Now waiting for further advice from my wife.
hope that it is sealed now.
Otherwise I going to seal this VW extra feature forever.
Today big boss called.
Massive leaks into passenger cabin.
Try to fix this fuxxing leaking window with some tile adjuster.
Now waiting for further advice from my wife.
hope that it is sealed now.
Otherwise I going to seal this VW extra feature forever.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,919
- Location
- France, Brittany.
You'll never fix it in the rain, check the évacuation holes aren't blocked.
We use silicone mastic.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,919
- Location
- France, Brittany.
SWMBO...
Stix-All sealant / adhesive / filler WILL stick in the wet if you have to. It's a hybrid polymer from Ever-Build and available in Black, Crystal Clear, and White.
Personally I've only used the black but it's pretty amazing stuff.
Personally I've only used the black but it's pretty amazing stuff.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,919
- Location
- France, Brittany.
I liké, never heard of that.
Jan-DIY
Member
- Messages
- 786
- Location
- Lower Saxony Germany
Naaa.
This is a welding community.
So try to get some glass rods.
If it fails I have a chance with duct tape.
It will do the job.
sure….
Last chance to avoid is to describe it as a feature, not as a buck.
But it could getting complicated.
This is a welding community.
So try to get some glass rods.
If it fails I have a chance with duct tape.
It will do the job.
sure….
Last chance to avoid is to describe it as a feature, not as a buck.
But it could getting complicated.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,919
- Location
- France, Brittany.
I'd run a bead of 6013, at a million amps, that fuses glass to steel / fiberglass, with a flicking movement, keeping the pool 'moist' etc, etc, etc.....
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 6,859
- Location
- Sussex
There is a slow gas leak somewhere on my second regulator but it will wait. Soap spray couldnt find it. So I did some tig!
This ones a 25mm bore. Ordered a 32mm bore for the other spare parting holder,
Could use any critism, please. My tack welds cracked so I blasted it with the mapp torch.
I was trying to go slow and get as much penetration as possible. 180A 2.4 tungsten.
This ones a 25mm bore. Ordered a 32mm bore for the other spare parting holder,
Could use any critism, please. My tack welds cracked so I blasted it with the mapp torch.
I was trying to go slow and get as much penetration as possible. 180A 2.4 tungsten.
Moose McAlpine
Member
- Messages
- 1,576
- Location
- Norf Lund'n
For a while i've wanted to make my own anti-theft device for the Sprinter's exhaust. It has all kinds of other preventative stuff on it, but up until now the exhaust was vulnerable. My last one had a CatLok but it's a lot of money and with a cordless grinder offers little protection.
Started by doing a bit of CAD work, which resulted in these:
Test fit pieces:
Quick test ones tacked to check clearance and finalise measurements:
This led onto final dimensions, new uprights cut, profiled the ends, welded onto the gearbox crossmember:
Studs added, a bar will go across the top of the exhaust, linking the two uprights. I did think about using shear nuts but this does need to be removeable for clutch replacement.
Painted (badly) just to limit rust, bar test fitted. I'll actually replace this with box section so the nuts sit in a recess to make them harder to access. They're already a very odd type. I should really paint the whole thing properly too.
Fitted:
I will modify this later on, add more to it, but it's a decent deterrent. Harder to get the exhaust off, the rear clamp isn't accessible, you can no longer just pull the DPF out under the van. Peace of mine for me at least. I hate parking this anywhere but home or the farm i store it on.
Started by doing a bit of CAD work, which resulted in these:
Test fit pieces:
Quick test ones tacked to check clearance and finalise measurements:
This led onto final dimensions, new uprights cut, profiled the ends, welded onto the gearbox crossmember:
Studs added, a bar will go across the top of the exhaust, linking the two uprights. I did think about using shear nuts but this does need to be removeable for clutch replacement.
Painted (badly) just to limit rust, bar test fitted. I'll actually replace this with box section so the nuts sit in a recess to make them harder to access. They're already a very odd type. I should really paint the whole thing properly too.
Fitted:
I will modify this later on, add more to it, but it's a decent deterrent. Harder to get the exhaust off, the rear clamp isn't accessible, you can no longer just pull the DPF out under the van. Peace of mine for me at least. I hate parking this anywhere but home or the farm i store it on.
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,323
- Location
- New Zealand
Cut by hand.?
Trucker girl/Mudflap girl rocks
