swindens vice clean up

[arther dailey]

Just been having a look at all of my photos of them, and these appear to be the serials, with their dates. Fortunately, both of mine were stamped with the year due to them being Ministry issue.

401595 - 1936
410275 - 1944

checked no.s on mine. 403-698,410-152 and b0101 if you could date these it would be interesting ,thanks Arther

 

[MattF]

Looking at those numbers, first one is around 1937-1938, and the second around 1943-1944, I'd guess. Are those first two hyphenated serials from the different vices, or both taken from one vice? I've no idea what the b0101 refers to.

 

[pondy]

Looking at those numbers, first one is around 1937-1938, and the second around 1943-1944, I'd guess. Are those first two hyphenated serials from the different vices, or both taken from one vice? I've no idea what the b0101 refers to.

any idea on mine? 410812

 

[arther dailey]

Looking at those numbers, first one is around 1937-1938, and the second around 1943-1944, I'd guess. Are those first two hyphenated serials from the different vices, or both taken from one vice? I've no idea what the b0101 refers to.

thanks yes first two have the first three diggits stamped one side of the align arrow with the other three other side, so one is just pre war and other is war time one, the third is far better condition, castings are way better quality and so far only no spotted is b0101, havent cleaned it at all as very original.
So I will put some pics on over the krimbo period, perhaps start a fresh listing(?) appreciate the dating on the first two Matt its nice to know.cheers Arther

 

[MattF]

any idea on mine? 410812

It's less than 600 higher than my 1944 one, so probably within a year or two tops of that one. The first number, btw, (the 4), is more of a jaw width/model designation than an actual part of the serial no.

Those front screws are 1/4" BSW, btw, so the rears should be the same, if memory serves. Easy enough to double check by trying one of the collar screws in the rear holes.

 

[pondy]

made a start of the back plate/bearing support, the original one is just a steel plate with a hole in the middle, i have some what copied this idea, i used a bit of 6mm aluminum, the shaft extends 5mm from the rear casing, I have another cover to go over this is in 1mm brass, the end of the shaft is 16.5mm so i drilled to 17mm. i will fit an o ring onto the shaft, put the aluminum plate on, pack with gresse then cover with a brass plate. test fit proved to have removed a lot of slack, its not perfect, not quite round and would have made a nicer job on a belt sander, i only have an angle grinder.

my used jaws and bolts also arrived, just need a clean up

 

[Screwdriver]

Where did you find those jaws?

 

[pondy]

Where did you find those jaws?

I got in contact with guy on eBay, I got this vice from him, he also has a number of other swindens, and these jaws from a newish one with a broken casting

 

[Screwdriver]

Awesome thanks. Can you ask if he'd like to sell me the broken one?

I fixed one before....

Oh and any odd jaws would be handy too!

 

[rosinante]

DQ s?

@MattF
I found out about the Broad Arrow stuff during a 28 day holiday over the wall in Pompy.

 

[pondy]

done a little more to this tonight. made a shim to take some slack from the handle, has gone from 3/4 turn of handle before jaws move to just under half a turn.

also made my cover for rear, this covers the hole in the bearing support and keep grease in/dirt out.

every thing got a quick wire brush again and a coat of linseed oil, having never used the stuff im not sure if i have applied it right, read if you apply to thick is can become gummy, yellow and sticking. i have applied a decent amount with one Rag then wiped down with another, its a light coat with no drips etc, will leave for a few days then do another coat. love the color its added

 

[Screwdriver]

Normally you can take the play out of the handle by straightening out the retaining clamp. They get bent and while I have straightened one, I wouldn't recommend it. BLO goes on exactly as you have done. Enough to give it a sheen, done. Don't forget to throw any rags on the bonfire or in a fire, they will just burst into flames if you leave them lying around.

S.

 

[pondy]

got this vice finished

also knocked up some soft jaws

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

What finish did you use?

 

[pondy]

What finish did you use?

it had two light coats of boiled linseed oil, its not got such a glossy look in the flesh

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I love the linseed oil finish on old metal.
Thanks for the answer.

Have you trued bee's wax and white spirit for a finish?

 

[pondy]

I love the linseed oil finish on old metal.
Thanks for the answer.

Have you trued bee's wax and white spirit for a finish?

i havent, this is the first project really where ive had a bare metal finish, had never used linseed before this

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

@pondy
Boil ground nut oil up. add a wax. I have used bee's wax. But also some model wax in red for a finish.
But it needs to be applied wet and hot.
Down side it takes a lot of work to buff up.

 

[MattF]

Boil ground nut oil up. add a wax. I have used bee's wax. But also some model wax in red for a finish.
But it needs to be applied wet and hot.
Down side it takes a lot of work to buff up.

Makes things easier if you add a solvent to the mix. That way you can apply it cold, and have more leeway on the buffing before it goes totally solid. Shoe polish or furniture wax are simple and effective finishes too.

 

[pondy]

got myself another, this one is a 6" to replace my record 7, comes with curved jaws too. not sure to strip down snd clean moving bits and get it operating or do same treatment as the one in this thread.
to my disappointment my 4" swindens has got s small bit of rust since i coated with linseed, every few feels i go over with wd40 and a rag.