- Thread starter Bill Edwards
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Bill Edwards
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Another problem with this particular bucket is the plates on the bottom at the rear (machine) end which somehow get worn. I don't know how, the driver must crowd it back then drive with it on the ground!
Anyway, every so often I have to grind off the remains and weld a fresh one in place. I was wondering if it might pay to run over them with hardfacing rods? It would mean approaching my boss and getting the OK but I'm thinking it would probably work out cheaper than the current method?
Anyway, every so often I have to grind off the remains and weld a fresh one in place. I was wondering if it might pay to run over them with hardfacing rods? It would mean approaching my boss and getting the OK but I'm thinking it would probably work out cheaper than the current method?
tinman123
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others will be far wiser on hardfacing then me but if i was doing it farmer style id lay down some 7018 cross hatch pattern on it and then weld over that with a suitable hard facing rod.
butter it up as they say.
nice work on the edge bill, it turned out well.
if you dont mind me saying, the angle iron piece to me dosent really provide much support to the edge but maybe youve included it because of wear possibly.
a flat plate would give more support even tho it looks less, the angle iron would be more inclined to tear then pull unless it was welded on the outside angle as well.
Bill Edwards
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There was some welding on the outside angle as well, though not a huge amount.
Using angle I think there is more support spread onto the bottom plate of the bucket which I think is a good thing on this, and I think it probably is stronger and may resist side loading better. Also, this bucket edge not only has force from digging into a pile then crowding back but also in the opposite direction as it gets used to scrape slurry. The driver will tilt it to near 90 degrees, push it down so the front of the JCB is in the air and drag it round the yard. You can tell the forces involved by the dust that appears as the concrete gets abraded away!
Also, I had the angle iron to hand (it's pretty thick btw) and a pretty limited choice of flat plate. Unfortunately I'm in a farm building that's referred to as the workshop because it has a vice and a pit, and the welder and two angle grinders live there. But that's about it! I have virtually nothing in the way of spare metal and tools, so a lot of things are a case of 'make do'.
Using angle I think there is more support spread onto the bottom plate of the bucket which I think is a good thing on this, and I think it probably is stronger and may resist side loading better. Also, this bucket edge not only has force from digging into a pile then crowding back but also in the opposite direction as it gets used to scrape slurry. The driver will tilt it to near 90 degrees, push it down so the front of the JCB is in the air and drag it round the yard. You can tell the forces involved by the dust that appears as the concrete gets abraded away!
Also, I had the angle iron to hand (it's pretty thick btw) and a pretty limited choice of flat plate. Unfortunately I'm in a farm building that's referred to as the workshop because it has a vice and a pit, and the welder and two angle grinders live there. But that's about it! I have virtually nothing in the way of spare metal and tools, so a lot of things are a case of 'make do'.
tinman123
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one thing is for sure, its not going to fall apart anyways.
Bill Edwards
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Yes, whichever means is the strongest/best I think everybody probably agrees it isn't going to fall apart. Mind you, you would probably have to see the way it gets abused to believe it!
must be painfully slow welding them on with sticks,
i just mig them on, the one thing a bit diffrent i do is stack some stays in from the tp of te bucket down to the bucket edge, for a bucket that going to do a lot of scrapeing push a slight curve on the blade so the middel of it scrapes better,
i would,nt put hardfaceing on any bucket thats been used scrapeing on concrete, bucket edges and wear blocks are cheeper and easyet to replace than concrete. the hardfaceing X's that some people like to weld on just trash conrete
i just mig them on, the one thing a bit diffrent i do is stack some stays in from the tp of te bucket down to the bucket edge, for a bucket that going to do a lot of scrapeing push a slight curve on the blade so the middel of it scrapes better,
i would,nt put hardfaceing on any bucket thats been used scrapeing on concrete, bucket edges and wear blocks are cheeper and easyet to replace than concrete. the hardfaceing X's that some people like to weld on just trash conrete
Bill Edwards
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It certainly is a steady job with sticks! I would very much like to try out either 7024 or 7028 rods for this kind of work for this very reason. Doesn't mean the boss would go for them though. And I can keep dreaming of a good sized MIG, but that dream isn't likely to become reality any time soon. At least it's one of the few things I can actually enjoy, a good run on the flat with a piece of folded carpet to sit on and just burn away... if only the rods were decent and I didn't have time pressures...
I have thought of stays from the top of the bucket down to the edge, but unfortunately this bucket has to be very flexible as to what it can carry - one minute it's feeding up, then next thing someone will be picking up a cow that's had a bad slip on concrete or carrying a bale or piece of equipment. For this reason I've never been able to weld some flat bar edge on from the edge into the bucket into it, which is another strengthening method I've used previously.
To be honest though, the bucket front is now receded so far back into the bucket that the edge is getting pretty big (9") just so it sticks out that it isn't bending - the last one didn't - which is probably the first time ever for this bucket. I think it's probably at the point where it should have some metal permanently added so shorter cutting edges could be used, it seems daft having them so far into the bucket.
That's very handy advice there re hardfacing for anything in contact with concrete. The bits I want to do are on the bottom rear where the strips get worn away if the bucket is run when crowded back, I was wanting it to replace metal that keeps wearing away on a very small point, I'd be doing multi runs to keep it solid, like I say just replacing metal, rather than the side, bottom edge, cutting edge etc like people usually do.
AndyStobbs
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Ebenezer Agri Engineering?
Your boss sounds tighter than two coats of paint.
Your boss sounds tighter than two coats of paint.
Kent
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A better way might be simply putting on special metal rubbing strip
Most cow shed buckets have these on
Farmers are tight. Stupidly tight it will never change they never repair anything in good time and then it costs them far more
Heck I don't know why
Preventative maintainance seems to be an alien thing
Your workplace don't half seem an accident waiting to happen with all this tightness going on.
Bill Edwards
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What is the special rubbing strip, hardened steel?
I am finding that ordinary mild steel wears away almost as fast as you can weld it - I'm looking at a muck grab now which has worn the wear plates away in no time, and it hadn't done much- plus half the time when mucking out the concrete floor is wet with the muck and it provides lubrication.
Shedendman
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This is all very interesting indeed,is there any literature on such work one could read up one?
rory1
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Bill, I get wear parts from john Moore in Staffordshire. The website gives some information on grades/Hardox etc, they are also very good on the phone for advice
http://www.wearpartsuk.co.uk
http://www.wearpartsuk.co.uk
F.J.
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I second this place. I get my blades and strips from them. Very competitive
Bill Edwards
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Thanks, they look to be a very useful firm to know.
I was thinking about the metal wear plates on stuff such as the bottom of muck grabs.
We have a lot of plough wear parts which are no longer fit for use on the plough, but would weld onto equipment and give a high quality wear part, and best of all - free.
Kent
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Inconel special wear resistant steel
You use preheat and use hydrogen consumables just to prevent cooling cracks
You can purchase inconel rubbing strip in the farmers gardien etc I think by lengths normally a rectangle. Bound to be routes selling normal bright mild steel ones though
Bill Edwards
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Thanks for that Kent, it's certainly worth looking into. I find that aside from the time spent doing the actual welding, a lot of time is taken up in cutting off the remains of old wear plates. No matter how you grind the welds away there always seems to be a bit somewhere that's holding it. Lately I've taken to using a slitting disk to cut the plate out inside the welds and remove with a chisel, then take off all the remains with a 9" grinding disk. Still a painfully slow process though.
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You can also buy hardox, and weldox in most common sizes to build any areas that take more wear, IIRC John Moore isn't a Hardox dealler they sell equivelents that might of changed now, ITS Track are Hardox Agents. TBH for single light edge 20x150mm I would buy that localy as cheep, it was only ever worth going to John Moore or ITS on a large order, The only things I ever used to Face was Banana Bars on large excavators, and sometimes the backs of adaptors, Its a slow job especially with a butter.
