Thanks Everyone,

[xantica]

Well I think I saw a few pics of this on the Vxon forum or other, certainly looks like it, then I got a bit upset as i couldn't see what came next, it's nice too see what came after, and it's certainly nice to see someone take the time and patience to not only share with those of us who have yet to try this but also to be able to see the standard of work I am seeing from a novice. I often think that those who can't do it or are to scared to try often denounce the work through their ignorance of what is actually involved and the sheer amount of stress it puts on those that do, as well as through what I perceive as their own "wishfull thinking" as to their own hopefull abilities.

Those who have done this many times may look and see what they have already gone through but have in the relativity of time caused them to forget how daunting it is and therfore criticise out of superiority, I find it most obnoxious when someone who feels such superiority due to their own experience mocks those who are just starting, nice to see that not happening here.

I remember welding up mini sills many many years ago with an arc welder set to max amperage and a rod the size of a large roundheaded nail!! and wondering why the sills disappeared in huge blobs onto the floor, I swore then after being burned and doing the indian war dance to the jokes of the neighbours many times I would never weld again, how wrong I was, its in the blood and just keeps dragging you back to itself.

Well done that man for doing the job you have. If the forum had a prize for best newbie wip I would most certainly vote for this.

 

[redwine300]

Thanks for your comments Xantica, much appreciated, As you say, I did post a few pictures on the Nissan Owners site but I think it may have been a case of pearls before swine with regards to welding so I switched to this site for much needed help and advice so as to achieve what I have to date. I have posted a few pictures of my latest repairs. However, I feel I need to apologise for missing out some of the intermediate photo's showing some of the problems I encountered along the way. The pictures show the beginning and the end result but not the changes in technique i had to adopt along the way so as to combat the overhead welding issues. The 2 main issues i felt contributed were, (1) Preparation in awkward places is imperative so as to minimise gases, but more importantly was wire speed. I ended up nearly doubling up on wire speed to get any sort of consistency, This did bring it's own set of problems with regards to torch speed but once I got the hang of not burning through (which i did a lot of) i was able to put down some better welds. (i think i may have turned a corner with regards to overhead welding and i hope it will be of help to others)
By the way Sphinx, I do not know much at all about Dynax as opposed to Bilt Hamber but I do hear they are both very well respected. Hopefully more experienced members will shed a bit more light. As for picking my brains, feel free and I will try and answer the best I can..
ps Sorry Sphinx, I have just realised my mistake, I was thinking of dynitrol not dynax, Only used about 5 tins of Dynax so far LOL Brilliant Stuff!!

 

[Sphinx]

Looks like you had no trouble mastering it then!

 

[redwine300]

I know what you mean Sphinx. Can't wait to do some more just to make sure it was not a fluke. Weather was bad today so I turned my thoughts to the shed where the front wings have been languishing for some time. Decided to strip bottom area to see the extent of the tin worm. As I cleaned off the layers of paint I got down to the stone chip layer, Is this stone chip primer or just stone chip paint??

Once I had removed all of the paint etc' I then removed the worst of the rust. I found that it had gone further than I first envisaged and as I straightened the edges small holes formed and the metal started to crumble away.

Without wishing to come across as patronising, Would some of the members take a look and suggest their thoughts as to how to repair. I am contemplating cutting the whole bottom lip off and making new but that may not necessarily be the best way.

There was a brief gap in the weather so I acid etched and then zinc primed my latest repair, Sorry about the over paint but I think it will come off ok with some thinners,

 

[W4yne]

Cracking work as usual redwine. I see you have been using the bilt hamber product? cracking stuff! just looking at those last few pictures of yours of the tin worm, have you tried bilt hambers deox gel rust remover followed by hydrate 80 which seals the metal in a rock hard coating? thoroughly recommend the bilt hamber products. Keep up the good work redwine.

I know what you mean Sphinx. Can't wait to do some more just to make sure it was not a fluke. Weather was bad today so I turned my thoughts to the shed where the front wings have been languishing for some time. Decided to strip bottom area to see the extent of the tin worm. As I cleaned off the layers of paint I got down to the stone chip layer, Is this stone chip primer or just stone chip paint??

Once I had removed all of the paint etc' I then removed the worst of the rust. I found that it had gone further than I first envisaged and as I straightened the edges small holes formed and the metal started to crumble away.

Without wishing to come across as patronising, Would some of the members take a look and suggest their thoughts as to how to repair. I am contemplating cutting the whole bottom lip off and making new but that may not necessarily be the best way.

There was a brief gap in the weather so I acid etched and then zinc primed my latest repair, Sorry about the over paint but I think it will come off ok with some thinners,

 

[bluebobtail]

Hi, i must say its really good work you have done.
Can i ask what do you use to grind back in tight areas?
Is it the dremel you mentioned before, and with what on the end.
Only i use a grinder where i can get in and then a die grinder with either a stone on it or a grinder tip if that makes sense.

Keep up the good work.

 

[redwine300]

Hi bluebobtail, Thanks. As for grinding in the tighter areas I generally use the Dremel, Starting with the largest diameter disc's where possible, followed by small mounted point grinding wheels. in addition to that it is a combination of a small open ended hack saw followed up by smooth hand files. For some of the surfaces in difficult to reach places I use a range of mounted wire brush type bits run in a pistol drill. You would be surprised at the range of shapes and sizes available allowing me to access most of the nucks and crannies. Also as W4yne referred to earlier, When there are areas virtually inaccessible I turn to Deox Gel rust remover by Bilt Hamber. Given time and sometimes multiple applications it will get rid of most of the rust very well.

 

[redwine300]

Well after many coats of Bilt Hamber Deox Gel rust remover I got close to bare metal, Almost. I spent some time deliberating as to whether I should treat the rusted areas or cut them out. Decided that as I have come this far I would go fore it and cut away in sections and rebuild with new metal, Fingers Crossed.

 

[Sphinx]

Funny, I'm doing exactly the same thing with an e36 wing lol
However I was lucky as I could find a spare section to replace mine with, I'm guessing it's not as easy with 300's.

 

[redwine300]

To be honest Sphinx I haven't looked that hard for repair sections, I decided to have ago first to see how I got on. I have cut some of the first repair so as to try and avoid any 3D shapes, My stretching and shrinking needs a little more practise and I am limited with regards to kit. Hope you post some pictures of your latest work Sphinx.

 

[daf45]

Good work! Just been through the whole great thread.
Can feel your frustration half way through, but your pics
in posts 182 and 184 show how much your welding
(particularly overhead) has improved.

 

[Sphinx]

The welds looks really small, yet you seem to get good penetration. How thick is the steel?

 

[redwine300]

Hi Sphinx, The thickness of the material I am adding is 20 gauge (0.94mm if memory serves me right?) The existing seems a little thinner but exactly how thick I don't know,
I have changed a few things with regards to settings and technique to allow me to produce smaller welds on thin sheet without compromising penetration.

 

[redwine300]

Hi daf45, Thanks for taking an interest. I have to admit, there has been bad times, but mostly good I'm glad to say. Put a bit of an effort in over the last day or so and made some good progress both in technique and repair work. Did not get the finished profile to match perfectly with the sill but hopefully with a bit of tweaking I may improve it some. Once that is done I will spot the fixing holes and then repeat on the offside wing.

 

[barrygibson]

good stuff

this is inspiring it really is.You should stand up straight right
this minute,raise one arm up above your
head and give yourself a great big pat on the back
A truly gripping thread to read from front to back.
Infact you could print it off and make a short book lol.

 

[Sphinx]

Looking Superb
What primers are you using? I need a shopping list lol

 

[redwine300]

Thanks barrygibson, It's nice to hear that my attempts are appreciated and that it might be of help and inspiration to others. Just as some of the excellent posts by others before me were an inspiration to myself, and still are by the way.

Cheers sphinx, as for the primers etc I use Bilt Hamber acid etch and U-Pol high build. As fore the finishing primer I haven't chosen one as yet. I need to be sure I put the right finishing primer on that will not affect the top coat.

As the weather has turned a bit of late I thought I would try some under body stone chip spraying, I was a bit nervous at first but I was pleasantly surprised how well it went on. Over did it a bit really.

 

[barrygibson]

Stone chip........Gods little gift to panel men lol

 

[Sphinx]

Is it sad that I know that's a Mk4/5 Fiesta in the 5th picture?

 

[Chickenjohn]

I have to say, fantastic panel work Redwine!!!

The visible outer panels are where you obviously need to be neat and tidy and the above repair certainly is!

Your thread is a great example of "This is how you should do it" !

As for the paint system you will choose, it depends on the top coat. I know that Cellulose paints will adhere fine over well prepared 2K but spraying 2K over celly can give problems. Not sure about 2K or waterbased over celly primer. I think for a relatively modern car such as yours, a 2K or water based clear over base system would give the right finish. Do you have access to a spray booth?? Are you going to paint the whole car or just the repaired areas. Old undamaged but dull/faded 2K paint finishes can respond amazingly well to a good machine polish and wax.

Cellulose paint looks perfect for older classics, but perhaps not your 300ZX if you have to paint the whole car. If it is just the sills and bottom of wings over stone chip coating then celly will be fine. I managed to blend celly almost invisibly into the rest of the 2K paint when I did sill repairs on my 944 a few years ago. Especially if you are keeping the car white then localised painting of the repaired areas and a good polish/wax of the rest of the car should work just fine.