Thanks Everyone,

[redwine300]

Hi Sphinx, Thanks for taking the time to look through my post, I hope it is of some help. The moral support is much appreciated also. As for the upside down welding, I managed to overcome this by turning up the wire speed and also adding a bit more gas flow. Just a couple of very useful tips, amongst many, from the guy's on this site.

 

[Chickenjohn]

Upside down welding on thin material is just about the hardest welding there is to do! You did very well, a suberb job!

 

[redwine300]

Cheers Chickenjohn, Appreciate that.

 

[redwine300]

Spent the entire day filling and sanding I'm afraid, Hope to finish of the inside welding of the sill to A pillar next week. I thought I would share some of my efforts with regards to filling,sanding and priming etc' so far. Boring I know!!

 

[Tigman]

Looking Good !

 

[Chickenjohn]

Looks great now you've got the etch primer on there.

One thought, the sills, especially on a low slung sports car can take a beating from stone chips etc. Have you thought about masking above the line of the door shut and applying anti stone chip paint before painting with the top coat?

 

[pedrobedro]

What size shovel did you put the filler on with, did you use artex ? Mix less at a time and put a couple of layers on rubbed down with 80 grit then a thin layer to fill the scratches and nicks rubbed with 240 then 320 or 400 aluminium oxide paper. Paintable schutz is good for stonechip protection but there is some clear plastic coating now available for vulnerable areas that you can stick on over paint.

 

[Chickenjohn]

What size shovel did you put the filler on with, did you use artex ? -snip-

I think that comment is a little strong, afaik this is redwine's first restoration project and i think he is doing a brilliant job.

As for filler, the work is not that bad from the photo's. If it were me though, I might just seam seal the weld seam, prime and stone chip, leaving the seam visible, rather than filling before top coat. The sill on a low slung sports car is not going to be the most visible part of the car and I would rather see the seam in the sill, as per original. However, that is a matter of taste rather than anything wrong, although if I was to fill, i might use lead body solder as the sill is quite vulnerable to water and stones and lead solder is waterproof and strong. Again, a matter of personal preference rather than an absolute.

 

[pedrobedro]

I think that comment is a little strong, afaik this is redwine's first restoration project and i think he is doing a brilliant job.

It's called ribbing, that's what the smiley is for I used to fill and rub down for a sprayer when I was a youth and it was the norm to be asked what size shovel you'd used and we used to ask him if he'd thrown the paint on with a bucket as the car drove past. If you had to rub it down you were more careful putting it on Unless he has had a sense of humour bypass, then I would say sorry. Lead loading is a bit of an art, we did some years ago but it's not a common process any more. Put the join line back in with a round file if you want it to look original.

 

[malcolm]

There's a technique I use to apply body filler that I find time saving - http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/body-filler.htm

Project is looking well. It's not your average first try.

 

[Chickenjohn]

Lead loading is not as hard as most people make out! Done a bit of it myself and in many cases it is superior to plastic filler.

I appreciate the smiley, but I try to be careful around new people here and some folks have been very harsh over relative newbies workmanship. Redwine is doing a great job and I don't actually think his filler on the sill was particularly thick. Humor does not always come across that well on the internet- I have had some of my intended humorous comments removed by moderators so will try and avoid humour here.

 

[pedrobedro]

He's doing a good job and enjoying it as well as are the rest of us. His filling will improve as has his welding as he goes along. I've read it back and can't see anything to take offence at as it is obviously meant in jest and not in the least bit harsh but if it warrants removing I won't be offended at that either. The only other thing I will say about filling is use less hardener and don't try to spread it once it's started to go off, it looks like that is what happened there and get some old credit/business/loyalty cards to use as spreaders, they are your flexible friend

 

[redwine300]

Thanks Tigman, Glad you like it. I know what you mean Chickenjohn about things looking better in primmer. As for stone chip paint, I am still wrestling with that one. I know originality says I should, but I really do like the idea of the smooth lines without.

Hi Pedrobedro, As for the size of shovel I used I can't remember, the only thing I recall is that it had JCB on it. I will mix a little less next time. I just wanted to be sure I had enough to achieve the correct profile first time around. Thanks for the advice on the Schultz stone chip etc'

I know what you mean Chickenjohn about retaining the original seam and in hind sight I fully agree, The honest reason for what I ended up with is the simple fact I got it wrong on the other side before I realised, so made them both the same. I have read a little about leading and quite liked the idea but felt it may be a bridge to far what with MIG welding etc' to learn. By the way, Thanks for the support earlier!!

Hi Malcom, Thanks for the link to the filler section, I have used it to great success on other areas but for some daft reason not on this occasion, Regretted it the next morning mind, could hardly move my arm.

Thanks again everyone, Keep the comments coming. Will hopefully post some welding next week.

 

[tux]

Well, I for one am impressed by the standard of work here. Well done indeed Redwine! I can only dream of making such a good job at the minute. Need to get a project and get some practice in methinks.

It looks to me as if the filler may have had slightly too much hardener mixed in and had started to go off before you had a chance to smooth it out properly? A mistake I make EVERY time I use the stuff! Other than that it looks fine to me, just needs a little work with the sanding block.

 

[redwine300]

Cheers tux, Much appreciated. It is good to know that my attempts are worthy of such comments and hopefully give others the inspiration to have a go them selves.

I think you are correct about the filler and hardener mix, I reckon my fear of having a repair not harden off leads me to add a tad to much hardener. As for the sanding, I am looking forward to it. It is something I have not attempted before so should be interesting.

 

[redwine300]

Well managed to weld inner layers of sill sections in the drivers foot well, Talk about awkward!!!! Not the best welds I've accomplished but I hope they are strong enough. I did suffer the dreaded buzzing lightening ball several times which p"**ed me off some what. I do not know if it is relevant, but the main thing that seemed to affect it was the torch position and angle. Is this possibly the main cause or am I clutching at straws? I tried wire speed,power settings and gas flow but all to no avail. Still, ground them down a bit and painted over. On a more positive note, Connected a battery up to her for the first time in 2 years and she fired up first time!!! happy days

 

[mike os]

lookin good dude, hell I've seen worse that that from "experts"

 

[bigrab]

Hi Redwine, I lost this great post for a couple of days, I was looking in the expert section and who could blame me ! I hope never to have to do this amount of repair but I'm trying to learn of it just in case. Brilliant work!!
Bob.

 

[Sphinx]

I'm still mightily impressed with all of this!
Out of interest, unless I've missed something what shape 300 is it? Z32?

 

[redwine300]

Hi Sphinx,
It's a 300zx twin turbo 2+2 LWB. (Z32) on a K plate, When I get the to the stage of fitting the interior and doors etc' (which will be very soon) I will post some photo's. By the way guy's thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.