Thwaites 4000 dumper / Petter PH2 project

[Spark plug]

On the peters barrels are shimmed from the bottom of the barrel. The nuts are very awquard to get to, paticularly the one in bettwen the push rod tubes but I managed to get a nip on them, this has hopefully sorted the probloem out. The nuts for the heads are worse than the barrels especially on multi cylinder engines.

 

[awemawson]

When I absolutely >>HAD<< to get mine started on cold mornings before I sorted the engine, I used to warm the barrels up with my steam cleaner - worked a treat Starts ok now even on cold mornings .

 

[mechman]

I know its a bit of a pain but if the rockers are loosened off and the push rods removed I've been told that you can remove the push rod tubes (cos the're spring loaded) to gain better access to the nuts, I haven't tried that yet as I was only told after the same experience as yourself ie rubber spanners needed etc.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I'd just use a common diesel engine oil and EP90 or 80/90 GL4 spec gear oil in the gearbox and axle.

 

[Spark plug]

That's prity Mutch what I was planning and hydraulic 32 in the hydraulics?

 

[Bill Edwards]

32, 46, any runny stuff...
Hydraulics on these things just need something oily. If it's leaky I'll use something a little thicker!
I've known such old machines run on old (used) oils which I don't like but have to admit that for moderate use see no ill effects.
I say it's worth changing any filters and using clean oil but it's not worth bothering too much what the oil is. If it runs very hot (which a dumper probably won't) then HV instead of of triad is better.

 

[Spark plug]

I am yet to ID the hydraulic filter, that's on the list. Judging from the colour of the hydraulic oil it's probably around 50% water so I wang to get that sorted.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I am yet to ID the hydraulic filter, that's on the list. Judging from the colour of the hydraulic oil it's probably around 50% water so I wang to get that sorted.

Assuming there are some numbers and a name on the filter then eBay can be useful but your best bet is usually a good (i.e the more old fashioned with a man behind the desk who knows his onions rather than 'but the computer says') motor factors. Often at least as good on price as the bay of evil too.

 

[Spark plug]

Just had a look at the hydraulic filter, not mutch help:

I undecided weather is a cartridge filter or screw on bean tin type. I'm problaly going to have to take it off for a look, if it's a cartridge in may have numbers on it?

also while the oil is out of the front axle I need to adjust the brakes properly as the right side locks if you press the brake goin backwards. Dose anyone know of an adjustment procedure for these old cam type brakes?

 

[Bill Edwards]

I think it'll be a cartridge filter. There could be numbers on it (no harm in hoping ).
It's not impossible though that a decent motor factors would still stand a chance of finding a replacement if they have the old unit in their hands to measure.

Can't help on the brakes as I'm not familiar with them but generally speaking most brakes work best when adjusted as tight as possible without binding.