We are waiting for a review Once you have took confidence withA Sherman acdc TigCan't wait to fire it up, just need some argon first, but wish I didn't have to pay another hobbyweld bottle deposit.
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Been there, done that, you have my sympathy.Today (well, yesterday now) I aquired a sore back, cricked neck, bumped head and itches all over, getting loft insulation into parts of the house that contracted loft insulators cannot reach. This is as far as I could physically get - in the pic I am rolling out the insulation into the last 8 feet of space after the chimney breast using a small broom
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Throw the extractors away before you are tempted to use them - if a larger diameter object shears off, then why would drilling a hole in it, screwing in a smaller diameter, hard, brittle object not break rather more easily and jam in there, now making the original job 50x harder . . . ?A box of miscellaneous items, left-hand extractors, drills, taps, reamers, .... :View attachment 329417
Carsten
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Returning to mamod models briefly, I got my static one running the other day and have now stripped it to give it a good clean up, all the remaining paint is scrap, and has been removed, so wondering what's a good heat resistant paint to use for the base and the firebox that supports the boiler ?
If you not worried about be original and just want HRT paint.
Side it down the stairs in bits lashed onto a purpose made flat bottomed skid / pallet that has ply wood or old kitchen work top or wood covered in a flat thin galvanised sheet ( Perhaps the side off a dead washing machine , dryer or fridge ? ) as the bottom sheet of material so the flat side rides on the stair edges . Use a 4 to 1 or six to one pulley set & 8 mm ropes anchored to the lower part of a doorway or if possible across the top of the stairs to arrest any too fast uncontrolled down ward movement .It's getting serious ...
the good thing: I can pick up an Arboga U2508, the Myford ML7 might get company;
the bad thing: the drill-mill is in a narrow basement with a very low ceiling height and a very narrow, steep, angled staircase as the only access.
The machine should be broken down into as many parts as possible, there are only two of us and we are no athletes.
I'm thinking about one of the well known engine jacks - it's the head that worries me the most:
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My choice would be the familiar textile loops, choking - so tightening itself, end by loop - passed around narrowings.
If I make it as above, the head will be quite front-heavy with the gearbox, so more like this:
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Question:
- Is the head hanging securely?
- Can I break anything with this solution?
- Do I have to remove all switches, levers, etc. from the head to rule out damage?
Further:
Once we have the head on the ground, we want to secure it upside down on a piece of cardboard cut to size on a hand truck with straps.
- Is there any soup coming out of the head? This is the oil sheet:
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What do you think?
Any other suggestions?
Thank you very much!
Greetings
Carsten
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Take great care with the Hobgoblin ....... apply too much & it makes you leak like hell and go all rubbery
That sounds fine, I'm not trying to replicate the original "garish" colours, just a coat of black rather than bare steel that'd rust rapidly.
My nephew replaced the rechargeable battery on his mums Tom Tom when it wouldn't re-charge. It lasted a very long time till it was nicked .
Me too, joy is I've got two properties to do, and no way am I having the cowboys doing it.
Rigid do an amazing screw extractor system using special high tensile shouldered rods that you knock into a precision drilled hole . I've used them many a time ..only ever managed to break one of the smaller extractor rods .. bloody left hand threads .
