- Thread starter monkeymark
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25.4_mechanic
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25.4_mechanic
Member
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- 1,046
- Location
- Germany, southwest
Some tungsten electrodes for TIG welding - I've been waiting for the black ones in particular, as I'm dabbling a bit with cast iron at the moment.
(Before this delivery I had no idea how variously long 175mm can be ...
) 
For those who may have wondered what the difference is between TIG and WIG welding: there is none.
What you call "Tungsten", we know as "Wolfram" - in both cases the element 74W is meant.
History:
As early as the 16th century, the Freiberg mineralogist Georgius Agricola described the occurrence of a mineral in Saxon tin ores that made tin extraction considerably more difficult by slagging the tin content.
The name Wolf- derives from this property, as the mineral "ate up" the tin ore like a wolf.
Whether this was wolframite is still disputed today, as Agricola spoke of the "lightness" of the mineral.
He called the mineral lupi spuma, which translated from Latin means something like "wolf(s) foam".
Later it was called Wolfram, from Middle High German rām "soot, cream, dirt", because the black-grey mineral is very easy to grind and then resembles soot.
Its chemical symbol W comes from the name Wolfram = Tungsten.
The word tungsten, which is common in English, Italian and French, is derived from tung sten (Swedish for "heavy stone").
In Sweden, however, this did not refer to tungsten itself (Swedish volfram), but to calcium tungstate.
In 1781, the German-Swedish chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele recognised a previously unknown salt in tungsten.
Pure tungsten was first produced in 1783 by the Spanish brothers Fausto and Juan José Elhuyar by reducing tungsten trioxide obtained from wolframite.
Happy Saturday to all with as nice weather as we are having at the moment,
Carsten
--
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Moose McAlpine
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Recent acquisitions..
Two injector puller/slide hammer sets. My van's injectors are blowing so the injectors need to come out.
They're both M16x1.5 thread, which is the important detail. The small weight is needed to fit under the Sprinter's cowl. The big weight is because injectors like to be awkward.
And this is why i needed M16x1.5 slide hammers; a Hazet puller claw to fit the injectors. This fits very few injectors and came from Germany. Only 3 companies seem to make the tool for these injectors.
In use:
Set of injector bore/seat cleaning brushes. Cheap, but worked great.
My mrs called me yesterday to say she'd got me something. She knows i love stacking crates. No idea where she found these:
And another bale arm crate i found dumped on the pavement. A thorough jetwash, but it's intact!
Quite funny. Never gave it much thought actually. It's phonetic for my accent.
Don't you worry about that.
Two injector puller/slide hammer sets. My van's injectors are blowing so the injectors need to come out.
They're both M16x1.5 thread, which is the important detail. The small weight is needed to fit under the Sprinter's cowl. The big weight is because injectors like to be awkward.
And this is why i needed M16x1.5 slide hammers; a Hazet puller claw to fit the injectors. This fits very few injectors and came from Germany. Only 3 companies seem to make the tool for these injectors.
In use:
Set of injector bore/seat cleaning brushes. Cheap, but worked great.
My mrs called me yesterday to say she'd got me something. She knows i love stacking crates. No idea where she found these:
And another bale arm crate i found dumped on the pavement. A thorough jetwash, but it's intact!
By the way, I have to confess that because of your moose and its yellow-blue colours I tried for a long time to understand
your location "Norf Lund'n" as a Swedish place (Lund etc.) until I finally thought of trying it phonetically, then I had it ...
Quite funny. Never gave it much thought actually. It's phonetic for my accent.
Don't you worry about that.
DennisCA
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An autotransformer also known as a variac. Will be put behind an isolation transformer. I am builing a power supply that can give 0-230 volts AC and is current limited with bulbs for testing purposes. I also have a smaller step down transformer 220-110V (with a center tap for 55V) that I might incorporate with a bridge for some DC output at lower voltages.
AKN
Master of Disaster
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Nice. If you didn’t know transformer voltage ratios are quoted at full load so on light Load the voltage rises. Depending on the quality of your isolating transformer this rise can be quite big. I got caught on this using one without a variac mains in at 250V output 275V so I suggest a voltmeter on the isolating transformer output. Sorry if I’m teaching granny….An autotransformer also known as a variac. Will be put behind an isolation transformer. I am builing a power supply that can give 0-230 volts AC and is current limited with bulbs for testing purposes. I also have a smaller step down transformer 220-110V (with a center tap for 55V) that I might incorporate with a bridge for some DC output at lower voltages.
slim_boy_fat
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An autotransformer also known as a variac. Will be put behind an isolation transformer. I am builing a power supply that can give 0-230 volts AC and is current limited with bulbs for testing purposes. I also have a smaller step down transformer 220-110V (with a center tap for 55V) that I might incorporate with a bridge for some DC output at lower voltages.
Looks very dangerous to me
25.4_mechanic
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Perfect!
Out of the workshop, spring is peeking through, with 20°C here - have a great Sunday everyone,
Carsten
--
Tinbasherdan
Bodger in chief
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An ex military 12x12 tent that I didn’t need, but was at the right price, and a 105mm shell casing
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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That sort of says you needed the 105 shell......
Tinbasherdan
Bodger in chief
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Who doesn’t? Might come in handyThat sort of says you needed the 105 shell......
slim_boy_fat
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Tinbasherdan
Bodger in chief
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To be fair it’s more of the full thing than just a casing. Drill purpose and very much inert though!
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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Drat, now I NEED one
slim_boy_fat
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Tinbasherdan
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There’s quite a few of the cases left, if anyone is seriously interested pm me and I can enquire for youDrat, now I NEED one
Pete.
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Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Well, there's a result.
My old Mamiya 645 was suffering from a grungy decaying foam backing that was attacking the prism. I spied a better prism on ffordes that was listed as being defective (an AE prism) with inaccurate shutter speeds. Bargain at £29, and I thought I might be able to fix the meter, but even if I couldn't the bare prism was much clearer than my old one.
It arrived a couple of days ago and today I fitted it. I noticed the meter was moving, so comparing it with a light meter and a dSLR it's actually pretty reasonably accurate. Bonus - it interfaces with the 645 electronically-controlled shutter and fires it properly at the speed it needs.
Nothing wrong with it at all. I reckon ffordes messed up and wrongly listed this one. It would be worth at least twice what I paid, if not thrice, being fully working.
Only drawback is the oh-so-tasteful lizard skin finish, but that's easily remedied.
My old Mamiya 645 was suffering from a grungy decaying foam backing that was attacking the prism. I spied a better prism on ffordes that was listed as being defective (an AE prism) with inaccurate shutter speeds. Bargain at £29, and I thought I might be able to fix the meter, but even if I couldn't the bare prism was much clearer than my old one.
It arrived a couple of days ago and today I fitted it. I noticed the meter was moving, so comparing it with a light meter and a dSLR it's actually pretty reasonably accurate. Bonus - it interfaces with the 645 electronically-controlled shutter and fires it properly at the speed it needs.
Nothing wrong with it at all. I reckon ffordes messed up and wrongly listed this one. It would be worth at least twice what I paid, if not thrice, being fully working.
Only drawback is the oh-so-tasteful lizard skin finish, but that's easily remedied.
slim_boy_fat
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^^ That IS a bargain! I've dealt with them (they're not far from me) and found them very good to deal with. 
