Today I acquired...........

[Memmeddu]

A brilliant bit of kit. Very effective but I still haven’t hit one in flight yet. Be aware my wife couldn’t understand why her vase of flowers died so quickly until she found some strange granular in it

I've once seen an episode of "how they do it"
They shown how high end hunting shotguns are made .
Well at the end they shown a miniature functioning double barrel made for I can't remember which UK king .
This thing required a pencil to operate the trigger .
This gun was specifically built to kill flies and bugs .
One of my most insane fantasy is make on of those things.
It's really challenging even imagine doing that, the most hard thing to make I guess would be the cartridge.
The firing mechanism has to be enough strong to make it work.
Since I don't think the caps from a toy gun would be enough strong to shot something.
There's actually a discipline here in Italy, short range shooting,which allows you to own a gun ,shot with it.
But you cannot carry or transport it by any means.
Without any special permission, you obviously have to declare the possession.
You use modified cartridges , with drilled out firing strikers seats , no powder charge and wax balls .
The striker alone is capable of shooting the wax ball at around 10 meters in a straight line out of an average pistol .
I cannot even imagine how they achieved to make a maybe 4mm in diameter working shotgun cartridge.
And it's even more hard to believe they achieved to make a an accordingly and perfectly scaled shotgun to operate them.
Cause you need a quite amount of energy to set off the primers of a normal cartridge (tried once on a 30-06 empty case and didn't manage to do that)

 

[Memmeddu]

Purdey Pieces: The Miniature Gun

Welcome back to Purdey Pieces, where each month we’ll hone in on a historical highlight from the Purdey archives. This instalment is a particular favourite, the miniature gun – one of the most remarkable projects undertaken in Purdey history.

www.purdey.com

Link

 

[Screwdriver]

A brilliant bit of kit. Very effective but I still haven’t hit one in flight yet. Be aware my wife couldn’t understand why her vase of flowers died so quickly until she found some strange granular in it

I am surprised. Knocking one out of the sky was one of the first things I tried! Gottim too though I did have to finish him off once downed.

I am using a fairly coarse salt. Not the powder fine stuff I prefer for food so happy to use it up but Saxa table salt which is more like sand than a powder.

This is what it does to extra strong Bacofoil from about 2 feet:

Must admit I was quite shocked at the damage!

 

[DAPPH]

View attachment 456463
30 euros free shipping
I've made a present for myself

It never ceases to amaze me that a decent set of drills are so butchered all because the user does not use all three holes in the chuck to tighten & center the drill in the chuck.
Hand tightening chucks are notorious for loosening and slipping on the shank of a drill good quality one piece drills with hex shanks are the way forward with hand tightening chucks .. Forget the cheapie force fit sleeve mashed in a slot on the drill shank as they frequently come loose even in wood & plastic once they get warmed up.

 

[DAPPH]

Could not resist. Perfect complement to my new sun deck...

I blame YouTube but yes, it is in fact awesome!

Will you post a trophy shot showing the days score laid out in lines ?
Tip :-
A dead cat terminated five days ago is the ideal fly attractant so are three day old filleted mackerel left out in sun.

 

[Screwdriver]

Will you post a trophy shot showing the days score laid out in lines ?
Tip ;_
A dead cat terminated five days ago is the ideal fly attractant so are three day old filleted mackerel .

Bit busy knocking up some accessories for it.

Magnetic mount (I designed this some time ago for task lighting duty) and a clip on mounting. I can swap it out for various sights, simple tube, telescopic, crosshair, laser spot (!) but am currently working on a wall mounting clip for it which will use the same rail mount.

Something Sketchup is NOT good at is complex organic shapes. Not that good at simple curves to be honest but for sketching out designs - perfect.

 

[Blobber]

Food shopping day!

drill for £7.99, magnetic tray for £2.49 and 12 reciprocating saw blades for £3.00

 

[Anguz]

so is the bug a salt worth the money they want for it ??

 

[Memmeddu]

It never ceases to amaze me that a decent set of drills are so butchered all because the user does not use all three holes in the chuck to tighten & center the drill in the chuck.
Hand tightening chucks are notorious for loosening and slipping on the shank of a drill good quality one piece drills with hex shanks are the way forward with hand tightening chucks .. Forget the cheapie force fit sleeve mashed in a slot on the drill shank as they frequently come loose even in wood & plastic once they get warmed up.

I've bought this set as a jobber set .
Not a lot of accuracy required.
So I can cope with the shank little worn out.
But I have a complete 4-13mm Dormer set with 0.25mm increments in sizes which just needs to be sharpened properly cause most people ruins the bits when they try to make them cut better .
Then I have a perfect gühring set 6-10mm 0.1 increments .
I am getting rid of all the key chucks
Because of the reason you explained up above, plus no matter what, you can even tighten it the correct way, they always have an excessive run out because of their construction .
Keyless chuck , I mean the real ones ,not the ones you'll find on a cordless drill , but the chucks you usually use on a mill or a lathe ...
They have 1 screw and not 3 (the jaws on the key chucks) and a fixed nut coaxial with the chuck ,instead of a moving one (the gear you tighten up using the key) which adds slack .
Another thing the jaws on a key chucks hardly have been ground, reducing accuracy,once more the run inside holes,again they need tolerances another accuracy lost .
On keyless chuck (I call them keyless for convenience) jaws are first of all precision ground and quite hard too .
Then they run pushed against a ground surface.
This ensures both parallelism of the contact surface to the drill bit shank , and concentricity.
Those things don't happen on a key chuck because of the mechanical tolerances mentioned up above, plus they come in contact at an angle so inevitably they can't never be parallel, never have the same contact surface to ensure holding strength, and in addition the jaws will inevitably rotate a bit reducing a lot the pressure applied on the shank.
Well there's more.
Keyless chuck if you push the bit to the bottom ,while tightening it will be forced to stay there , because the action of the jaws will push the bit against the bottom .
Key chucks do the opposite again loosing holding strength.

Another thing and then I promise you to stop being a teacher without knowing anything.
Cause I'm sure there's a whole lot of reasons why those things happen, I've tried to share what I've understood about the main differences between those two chuck variety.
Drill chucks are rathed for a specific shank size range.
Ideally you need different chucks for different drill's sizes.
For example
I'd use a 0 to 6 mm chuck for holding bits up to 4mm
0 to 10 or 1 to 10mm one for bits between 3 to 7 let's say 8mm
1.5 to 13 between 5 and 10mm
A 3 to 16mm between 8 and 14mm
There are bigger ones but at this point they are most likely reduced shanks or already available with morse taper shank and that would be my preference.
Bigger cylindrical shank than 14mm should be held on a collet chuck IMHO

Maybe the most annoying and lesson looking post I've ever written in here.
I'd like to remember that I'm not trying to teach something to anyone, I'm not able to explain something without looking Mr I know everything.
I hate that myself.
My apologies

 

[Screwdriver]

so is the bug a salt worth the money they want for it ??

Difficult to say. It's not cheap! (mine was)

First thing you notice is how heavy it is. This is not a lightweight item. Then it just has that indefinable feel of solidity, nothing like a regular nerf gun it might resemble.

Things I like: murdering flies. I hate flies. This is about as up close and personal as you can get. They don't see it coming. Unlike my second favourite device, the insectocutor, you don't have to stand and wait for them to die a horrible death

Hang on. This is getting out of hand. OK so maybe I am a little fly obsessed. The answer to your question "is it worth it" is yes it feels like it is an expensive thing to produce. It's also a good design but the value depends really on how much you hate flies.

For me, this was a bargain...

Off to the sun deck now. Soon find out if it's better than keeping a fly spray handy which I don't like to use outdoors due to collateral damage to less filthy insects.

I will probably, literally, shoot myself in the foot with it though...

 

[Gragson]

so is the bug a salt worth the money they want for it ??

Pricey on amazon at least - looks fun tho

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BUG-A-SALT-3-0-Orange-Crush-Edition/dp/B07Y3YZVGW/ref=asc_df_B07Y3YZVGW?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80127028851786&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726554570275&psc=1

 

[sg66]

Wera pozidrive bits £20.00 needed 50mm and Screwfix only had erbaur or wera, I've had lots of issues with the cheap erbaur stuff.

 

[Anguz]

Pricey on amazon at least - looks fun tho

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BUG-A-SALT-3-0-Orange-Crush-Edition/dp/B07Y3YZVGW/ref=asc_df_B07Y3YZVGW?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80127028851786&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726554570275&psc=1

They do an under 50 quid version... still a bit too spicy for me to buy

 

[Bki26]

Pricey on amazon at least - looks fun tho

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BUG-A-SALT-3-0-Orange-Crush-Edition/dp/B07Y3YZVGW/ref=asc_df_B07Y3YZVGW?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80127028851786&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726554570275&psc=1

Probably a reseller trying to catch someone out £45-55 elsewhere.

Shame can't get this version easily in the uk... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165214212729

Also it works with a crossman vigilante lol https://www.reddit.com/gallery/14o89m1

 

[OJCar]

Yet another knackered Series Land Rover ...

V5 arrived today, filled in online on Monday PM, that was quick!

 

[Seadog]

 

[iNf]

View attachment 456654View attachment 456655

That's this weekend sorted then!

 

[DAPPH]

I've bought this set as a jobber set .
Not a lot of accuracy required.
So I can cope with the shank little worn out.
But I have a complete 4-13mm Dormer set with 0.25mm increments in sizes which just needs to be sharpened properly cause most people ruins the bits when they try to make them cut better .
Then I have a perfect gühring set 6-10mm 0.1 increments .
I am getting rid of all the key chucks
Because of the reason you explained up above, plus no matter what, you can even tighten it the correct way, they always have an excessive run out because of their construction .
Keyless chuck , I mean the real ones ,not the ones you'll find on a cordless drill , but the chucks you usually use on a mill or a lathe ...
They have 1 screw and not 3 (the jaws on the key chucks) and a fixed nut coaxial with the chuck ,instead of a moving one (the gear you tighten up using the key) which adds slack .
Another thing the jaws on a key chucks hardly have been ground, reducing accuracy,once more the run inside holes,again they need tolerances another accuracy lost .
On keyless chuck (I call them keyless for convenience) jaws are first of all precision ground and quite hard too .
Then they run pushed against a ground surface.
This ensures both parallelism of the contact surface to the drill bit shank , and concentricity.
Those things don't happen on a key chuck because of the mechanical tolerances mentioned up above, plus they come in contact at an angle so inevitably they can't never be parallel, never have the same contact surface to ensure holding strength, and in addition the jaws will inevitably rotate a bit reducing a lot the pressure applied on the shank.
Well there's more.
Keyless chuck if you push the bit to the bottom ,while tightening it will be forced to stay there , because the action of the jaws will push the bit against the bottom .
Key chucks do the opposite again loosing holding strength.

Another thing and then I promise you to stop being a teacher without knowing anything.
Cause I'm sure there's a whole lot of reasons why those things happen, I've tried to share what I've understood about the main differences between those two chuck variety.
Drill chucks are rathed for a specific shank size range.
Ideally you need different chucks for different drill's sizes.
For example
I'd use a 0 to 6 mm chuck for holding bits up to 4mm
0 to 10 or 1 to 10mm one for bits between 3 to 7 let's say 8mm
1.5 to 13 between 5 and 10mm
A 3 to 16mm between 8 and 14mm
There are bigger ones but at this point they are most likely reduced shanks or already available with morse taper shank and that would be my preference.
Bigger cylindrical shank than 14mm should be held on a collet chuck IMHO

Maybe the most annoying and lesson looking post I've ever written in here.
I'd like to remember that I'm not trying to teach something to anyone, I'm not able to explain something without looking Mr I know everything.
I hate that myself.
My apologies

Funny you say that small keyless chucks on battery drills are crap.
I received a TEMU battery drill special today , it won't hold a 4mm twist drill being poked into 20mm of chipboard for a pilot hole. I put one of the Chinese hex shank punched on to the drill shank , four holes and it too started to self loosen , I'm about to go searching the world for a keyed replacement 0,8mm to 10mm chuck ---- 3/8 ,24 UNF for it . If it's not possible it's going back or I'm asking for a refund .
I do have a 13 mm Kielder battery drill that has a great chuck grip even on tungsten & polished cobalt drills

 

[Memmeddu]

Funny you say that small keyless chucks on battery drills are crap.
I received a TEMU battery drill special today , it won't hold a 4mm twist drill being poked into 20mm of chipboard for a pilot hole. I put one of the Chinese hex shank punched on to the drill shank , four holes and it too started to self loosen , I'm about to go searching the world for a keyed replacement 0,8mm to 10mm chuck ---- 3/8 ,24 UNF for it . If it's not possible it's going back or I'm asking for a refund .
I do have a 13 mm Kielder battery drill that has a great chuck grip even on tungsten & polished cobalt drills

Something like that would be my choice.
No need to be stainless at all , and TBH I'd avoid anything that needs to be screwed and unscrewed made out of stainless because we all know that happens to stainless threads.
They eventually get deformed becoming harder do to the heating and they'll never come loose again.
All stainless steel threaded components I've had to face off, developed those conditions and kinda self weld them together

 

[Arc Tourist]

Albrecht keyless chucks are a great quality piece of gear !