Today I acquired...........

[daleyd]

As said up above if an electric component fails , it's not worth fixing.
Unfortunately it happens so often .
I seek for good quality tools sold as spare and repair.
I never take in consideration Milwaukee for this reason.
There is a misconception that broken tools are worth something, and indeed they are.
But not a lot.
I often see auctions where they sell a bunch of junk they start offering well over the value.
If you have money a storage you could get a bunch of known brand tools and dismantle for parts, put together one or two working tools, sell the remaining spares.
In reality you have to get a profit on the working tools, spares ok you might be able to sell something but you have to be lucky to find first of all good components, and those are usually the parts which don't fail.
So you guessed no one needs them and you are not able to make a profit on them .
Waste of time .
I've just seen a little Milwaukee hammer .
They are selling it for 50 euros as not working , 30 euro shipping .
Now I can take the risk but honestly.
It's 400 euro brand new, you are not able to sell it at more than 120-150 euro .
You can make a profit only if it's a broken power cord or carbon brushes.
If it's a PCB , if it's the stator, if it's the rotor or worst if its a mechanical fault .
You wasted 80 euro .
Hilti they are a different world , they are expensive even if broken , if you're lucky to find a cheap one you might be able to sell parts
But again the good components that you find are usually not wanted.
If you get them free or almost free you can, otherwise not.
I've once bought a Fein wsg17-125p
20 euro, 25 shipping, dismantled found a broken bearing ,15 euro bearing , it's still kinda worth but we are on the limit ,70 euro is what you can get for it as it's sold for 160 euro on amazon .
But it's not happening because to replace the faulty bearings you have to destroy the pinion gear (heat shrink and press fit on the armature)
Well I wasn't aware I could get it new for that cheap I bought the pinion and the bevel gears for it we added othe 50 euro on it .
We are at 120 euro...
Is it worth wasting time with it ? Considering that I cannot sell it so I have to keep it and for this reason I have to replace all the bearings (20 euro so 140 euros )
Thrust me there is a reason why Makita are so popular on the used market (cheap to repair whatever what's broken)
Anything else if you're not lucky not worth wasting time and money on them

I don’t think anyone’s talking of buying them broken and repairing them, but if you already own one and it breaks then a repair is a different matter.

 

[JOEPRO]

is the smaller 1/4 or 3/8th ?

3/8 - very useful with quality deep 3/8 sockets for brake jobs and light engine work. Taking off undertrays etc in seconds it is a MASSIVE time saver for me. Quite powerful too but also adjustable.

So for example on glow plugs I get the engine hot and set this impact on its lowest setting. Let it rattle away 10 or 20 seconds and it breaks em loose without snapping them.

I don’t think anyone’s talking of buying them broken and repairing them, but if you already own one and it breaks then a repair is a different matter.

Exactly. And really the Milwaukee stuff doesn't break and I have used mine since they first came out many years ago. (6 -7 years?) Outside in all Weather hence why the bearings go after 5 years or so which is fine with me.

 

[Memmeddu]

I don’t think anyone’s talking of buying them broken and repairing them, but if you already own one and it breaks then a repair is a different matter.

It wasn't the point.
I was trying to tell you about the fact many tools like Milwaukee fuel are not worth to fix if there's an electrical fault .
If happens to you don't waste time with it cause it's not worth , bin it or better sell it on eBay cause there are people who actually buy broken stuff.
Then I've got out of tracks cause I've shared my experiences and the reply lost its intended meaning

 

[Memmeddu]

Exactly. And really the Milwaukee stuff doesn't break

It does
Anyway my reply had a completely different meaning, I've surely used wrong words or articulated them incorrectly and adding my experiences about I've managed to make my reply harder to understand

 

[daleyd]

It wasn't the point.
I was trying to tell you about the fact many tools like Milwaukee fuel are not worth to fix if there's an electrical fault .
If happens to you don't waste time with it cause it's not worth , bin it or better sell it on eBay cause there are people who actually buy broken stuff.
Then I've got out of tracks cause I've shared my experiences and the reply lost its intended meaning

I disagree, if you’ve paid £3-400 for a new one in the first place it’s probably worth a bit of cash throwing at it if you get a decent tool at the end of it. I’d agree there’s no point stumping up £50 for a secondhand broken one to try and fix, but if you’ve bought new then you effectively have nothing to lose.

 

[Mark 5]

It wasn't the point.
I was trying to tell you about the fact many tools like Milwaukee fuel are not worth to fix if there's an electrical fault .
If happens to you don't waste time with it cause it's not worth , bin it or better sell it on eBay cause there are people who actually buy broken stuff.
Then I've got out of tracks cause I've shared my experiences and the reply lost its intended meaning

Is this because a Milwaukee electrical fault in a cordless unit generally involves not just say replacing the trigger or speed control but the control board, in other words not sold separately items but as one which to me is ludicrous?

I like or liked Milwaukee as a brand but in the last few years their cordless tools have more or less become a throwaway item or at least expensive repairable which makes them almost not worth doing so.

 

[Memmeddu]

Is this because a Milwaukee electrical fault in a cordless unit generally involves not just say replacing the trigger or speed control but the control board, in other words not sold separately items but as one which to me is ludicrous?

Stator windings ,wire harness, trigger, PCB and battery interface are sold as a single component .
I've seen few moments ago someone sell them for over 100-150 euro second hand, depending upon the unit .
Still not economically worth trying IMHO .

I used to like, and I still like many Milwaukee tools , I have few, like an SDS max rotary hammer a drill and an angle grinder (I've got them for free and I've repaired them)
I agree with you but not only Milwaukee but the majority of the brands became throwaway units.

Most of you know I love Metabo, it's not an exception .
I think Makita and Bosch are probably the only brands that still produce serviceable tools .

 

[Mark 5]

Stator windings ,wire harness, trigger, PCB and battery interface are sold as a single component .
I've seen few moments ago someone sell them for over 100-150 euro second hand, depending upon the unit .
Still not economically worth trying IMHO .

I used to like, and I still like many Milwaukee tools , I have few, like an SDS max rotary hammer a drill and an angle grinder (I've got them for free and I've repaired them)
I agree with you but not only Milwaukee but the majority of the brands became throwaway units.

Most of you know I love Metabo, it's not an exception .
I think Makita and Bosch are probably the only brands that still produce serviceable tools .

Silly state of affairs that imo has done the brand no good, and that is a shame.

Like you I like Milwaukee, their design, no longer their reliability or impracticable serviceability and like you I have a couple of their tools, one of them being a 18 year old diamond core drill, it's been through walls and wars with me and apart from a couple of brush sets and a replacement chuck, been a fantastic Milwaukee tool and can't fault it.

I have never owned a Metabo to to the best of my recollection, I moved to Makita many years ago and they have been a serviceable reliable brand for me but so has my Bosch tools.

 

[Memmeddu]

I disagree, if you’ve paid £3-400 for a new one in the first place it’s probably worth a bit of cash throwing at it if you get a decent tool at the end of it. I’d agree there’s no point stumping up £50 for a secondhand broken one to try and fix, but if you’ve bought new then you effectively have nothing to lose.

If you're the owner of a tool , things are different.
I've rebuilt the same Makita HM0870 twice.
It was about 800 euro brand new at the time.
With 200 euro I've replaced armature, stator, power cord, and installed a maintenance kit so new seals , retaining clips and rollers, grease, carbon brushes and tool holder wearing components.
At the end the customer had a brand new 870 just with scratched plastic covers .
Did it twice in 6 years (well used and abused ) ,the last time it wasn't worth because it needed the same components + the internal housings and plastic covers because it flew from the 10th floor crashing to the ground .
( I've rebuilt several Milwaukee hammers too ) .
I usually don't work on cordless tools.
I've recently repaired an M18 fuel SDS drill, mechanical fault, the tool holder locking rollers.
But it came with another one with burnt PCB and we used it for spares.

Back to the topic , a power tool is worth to fix if you don't cross the 1/3 of the brand new price tag, and that's why I've said M18 fuel are not worth to repair whenever an electrical fault occurs.
About getting broken tools , it's worth if you pay them 10% of their price and this gives you room to fix them .
It differs upon the specific tool and brand.
I've got a Fein mshy 649 foundry grinder for I can't remember how much but less than 50 euro maybe 30 if I'm not mistaken.
I've been lucky to find an used armature for it , paid 39 euro.
Now it's for YouTube so budget comes little bit out of the equation but it still less than the 10% of the brand new equivalent.
Older stuff is generally speaking easier to work with but you need to scratch your head hunting parts .

 

[Memmeddu]

Silly state of affairs that imo has done the brand no good, and that is a shame.

Like you I like Milwaukee, their design, no longer their reliability or impracticable serviceability and like you I have a couple of their tools, one of them being a 18 year old diamond core drill, it's been through walls and wars with me and apart from a couple of brush sets and a replacement chuck, been a fantastic Milwaukee tool and can't fault it.

I have never owned a Metabo to to the best of my recollection, I moved to Makita many years ago and they have been a serviceable reliable brand for me but so has my Bosch tools.

I think it has been already 3 years since I've bought a brand new power tool .
I think I've got a belt sander from Lidl but it's cheap so it doesn't count.
I prefer to buy second hand in relatively good conditions , solving 2 main problems , first I can buy more of them and they are more cost effective for my needs, second I will not get hurt if they get damaged or stolen (cause my brother borrow my tools for his company and many times they got stolen)

 

[GRW]

If you are always operating from a workshop (or convenient access to 220V), and are not likely to use it often - I would recommend not looking at a rechargeable unit - you'll save a load of money. I have a MOSS 1000W 450Nm 220V unit - it does everything I have every wanted it to do - biggest cars I work on are Range Rovers.

I'd say I'm usually near a mains power supply yes. Because of the occasional rather than daily use, many of my tools are corded 230v items - it's also why I bought the rubbish Clarke Impact Gun.

I'd certainly consider a (good) 230v impact wrench. I've never heard of your Moss one - I'll have to Google! My largest vehicle is the 2008 Renault Master Mk2 I've (mostly) converted road camper with mountain bike garage, so if it copes with everything on R-Rover I imagine it'd do the Master too.

 

[Dilkris]

I'd say I'm usually near a mains power supply yes. Because of the occasional rather than daily use, many of my tools are corded 230v items - it's also why I bought the rubbish Clarke Impact Gun.

I'd certainly consider a (good) 230v impact wrench. I've never heard of your Moss one - I'll have to Google! My largest vehicle is the 2008 Renault Master Mk2 I've (mostly) converted road camper with mountain bike garage, so if it copes with everything on R-Rover I imagine it'd do the Master too.

The MOSS unit is basically a rebranded generic thing - identical to the following

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MPT-Electric-Impact-Wrench-Driver/dp/B0CSCTN73P

 

[Turbo]

Is this because a Milwaukee electrical fault in a cordless unit generally involves not just say replacing the trigger or speed control but the control board, in other words not sold separately items but as one which to me is ludicrous?

I've never worked on a Milwaukee but on a lot of the brushless tools the switch, control board & stator only come as one unit so if you have a simple broken switch you have to replace everything unless you can source the same switch from China.

 

[Memmeddu]

I've never worked on a Milwaukee but on a lot of the brushless tools the switch, control board & stator only come as one unit so if you have a simple broken switch you have to replace everything unless you can source the same switch from China.

They use propetary switches, they might look identical but may have different pin out, resistance output, working voltages etc

 

[minimutly]

Today I gained a piston with a hole in it, another with a crack. Took hours to undress and remove the head, tomorrow will drop the sump to remove the rods and pistons. The new Sealey gun failed to remove the bottom pulley bolts, big old yellow thing of my mates waltzed them off.

 

[GRW]

Today I gained a piston with a hole in it, another with a crack. Took hours to undress and remove the head, tomorrow will drop the sump to remove the rods and pistons. The new Sealey gun failed to remove the bottom pulley bolts, big old yellow thing of my mates waltzed them off.

I think you mentioned its a Ford 2.2L (Duratorc ??) Engine? I used to drive one now & then at previous job - a 2012 van with something like 280k miles on it.

Mechanic there said those motors tended to be good for ages if serviced - but would eventually just go badly "Pop" without warning.

Are you disappointed with the Sealey Ugga Dugga (given those pulley bolts are done up to VFT)?

 

[Dilkris]

I've had sump bolts put back in with a rattle gun by automotive high street chains which makes undoing them at a later stage at home really interesting... honestly there are times when I think rattle guns (impact guns) should be designed that they undue fixtures ONLY.
I note that they are now used by scaffolders....

 

[sako243]

I have to say that I've had my M18 Fuel Hi Torque gun (either a first or second gen) as a hobby use for nigh on 10 years now and it's not failed to get anything off. The only one it struggled with was some suspension bolts on a P38 then it broke them. Realised later that I'd been tightening the M24 bolts and it simply snapped them.

I recently rebuilt the JCB engine (big ends are torqued to 250Nm, head bolts are torqued to 110Nm then a further 210°) and it didn't even blink at those.

Over the years that's been dropped in mud, dropped from height, stood on and all sorts. Keeps on going. A mate down the road recently got the 3/4 version of it hasn't struggled with anything on his plant machinery. So yes they're not cheap but £450 over 10 years averages out. Still have the original 5Ah batteries it came with going strong. One doesn't have the button to check charge working but that's it. That one did take a flying leap from 4m up onto a 2" slate slab with a jigsaw attached though and that was the only damage apart from twisting the jigsaw blade.

 

[JOEPRO]

I have to say that I've had my M18 Fuel Hi Torque gun (either a first or second gen) as a hobby use for nigh on 10 years now and it's not failed to get anything off. The only one it struggled with was some suspension bolts on a P38 then it broke them. Realised later that I'd been tightening the M24 bolts and it simply snapped them.

I recently rebuilt the JCB engine (big ends are torqued to 250Nm, head bolts are torqued to 110Nm then a further 210°) and it didn't even blink at those.

Over the years that's been dropped in mud, dropped from height, stood on and all sorts. Keeps on going. A mate down the road recently got the 3/4 version of it hasn't struggled with anything on his plant machinery. So yes they're not cheap but £450 over 10 years averages out. Still have the original 5Ah batteries it came with going strong. One doesn't have the button to check charge working but that's it. That one did take a flying leap from 4m up onto a 2" slate slab with a jigsaw attached though and that was the only damage apart from twisting the jigsaw blade.

Yep they are beasts the high torque. This is my video from 5 years ago in a scrap yard it can shear wheel bolts clean off

Mine had also never failed to undo any bolt including crank bolts etc without special sockets.

 

[dobbslc]

Yep they are beasts the high torque. This is my video from 5 years ago in a scrap yard it can shear wheel bolts clean off

You should have a job in National Tyres!