Today I acquired...........

[Hood]

Sorry missed this post. Need to do a little homework and decide how im gonna go about it.

Just let me know if you want them as I definitely have a 24v AC coiled contactor and the toroidal transformer. I got quite a few of them years back, they had come off some sort of street lighting that the council were dumping.

 

[dobbslc]

First of my Doncaster purchases and probably the best, that’s why it’s still in the house and hasn’t been moved to the workshop yet. I’ve been thinking of getting one of these so I can level up my machinery, but just hadn’t found the right one. This one just looked like it should be mine though, looks like new, the box will get some attention and a bit of polish.

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How do I tell if a level is an "engineers" level? I want one to level my machines but don't know the difference between different types.

 

[Pete.]

How do I tell if a level is an "engineers" level? I want one to level my machines but don't know the difference between different types.

Long bubble, very sensitive, usually has the sensitivity written on it (though that Starrett of Matthew92's probably has a model number, and if it's a 603-930 that makes it a 1 arc minute level).

A typical engineer's sensitive level would be 10-20 arc seconds/division or better.

 

[MattF]

These were acquired a few months ago, but I've only just got round to removing them from the tub of oil which I put them in after electrolysis, to remove the surface rust and embedded swarf.



One of those Celebrations sweets containers was practically full, when they were soaking in oil in it. The large ones are at the bottom. They fill this tub around halfway.

 

[Memmeddu]

A friend was chucking it out. Not yet tested, two probes as well.

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It's beautyfull, you can also use to check inverter welders....

 

[Memmeddu]

Just let me know if you want them as I definitely have a 24v AC coiled contactor and the toroidal transformer. I got quite a few of them years back, they had come off some sort of street lighting that the council were dumping.

Need the same contactor
Im fixxing a paint mixer, the contactor works but the eccitaction coil, holds in engaged position so do noise and smokes little bit after long time and it's not good

 

[Hood]

Need the same contactor
Im fixxing a paint mixer, the contactor works but the eccitaction coil, holds in engaged position so do noise and smokes little bit after long time and it's not good

I may have another but not sure, what size does it need to be?

 

[indy4x]

If you were 56 you would perhaps remember her from your teenage dreams.

I'm 51 and defo remember her from my teenage dreams

 

[Memmeddu]

I may have another but not sure, what size does it need to be?

Thank you Hood but the owner of the paint mixer pay me and materials so we was talking about buy a new one.
And i must remember you that i live in sardinia so little bit far for shippings, next monday i go to visit my favorite electromechanic repair shop and I bougth a couple of this contactor

 

[Memmeddu]

Mistake posting reply whitout image

 

[Matthew92]

Long bubble, very sensitive, usually has the sensitivity written on it (though that Starrett of Matthew92's probably has a model number, and if it's a 603-930 that makes it a 1 arc minute level).

A typical engineer's sensitive level would be 10-20 arc seconds/division or better.

I'm about an 1/8th of an inch low on the head stock end, I could probably have got away with a cheap level from B&Q.

 

[indy4x]

When my BIL dropped off the Abwood last night he mentioned he'd weighed in a large face plate off a lathe plus some other stuff

Was down the scrap yard this morning and found the faceplate and 2 chucks

Face plate is a good 24" across, dunno what to do with it yet but they only charged me scrap prices for them

 

[Hood]

Could make a small welding table from it.

 

[Pete.]

I'm about an 1/8th of an inch low on the head stock end, I could probably have got away with a cheap level from B&Q.

Levelling a lathe along the bed CAN be done with a B&Q level. Sensitive levels are used for levelling the lathe across the bed for the purpose of eliminating twist. Your level (if it'sa 603-930) will work but you'll have to read the bubble movement very carefully. For a test, put it on a flat surface, which reads level, then put a 1 thou feeler gauge under the end. If you can't detect the bubble movement then it's just a very nice level but not much use for detecting twist in the lathe.

 

[Matthew92]

The remainder from my visit to Doncaster. A new parting tool, I bought one with a HSS blade the other day but after snapping two blades and I'm not entirely sure why, I thought I'd give one of these a try. I also bought a quick change tool post a few weeks back, I forgot to post that. Thanks to @HughF who gave me some helpful advice.




Lovely big Jacobs chuck, takes a 20mm drill and it has a MT3 taper, so it goes straight in the lathe. Needed a good clean up, but it was just surface rust. Size comparison next to 6 inch callipers.



A selection of dormer drill bits and an eclipse scribe.



Metric dial callipers, brand new, not very exciting.



1/2" chuck for my wolf sapphire drill.



And from halfords today, a small toolbox for the spanners and various tools for my milling machine. £4 with a trade card.

 

[Matthew92]

Thanks @Pete. at the moment, I'm out of level along the length and the width, It's sat on wood so that it wouldn't rock on the slightly uneven slabs, I think its sunk a bit now, so really my intention is just bring it up as close as I can. For what I'm doing, if I can get the bubble in the middle in both directions I'll be happy. All of this you understand is just an excuse, because as you mention it's a nice level and it'll look much nicer on my shelf than a B&Q special.

 

[Ian James]

The remainder from my visit to Doncaster. A new parting tool, I bought one with a HSS blade the other day but after snapping two blades and I'm not entirely sure why, I thought I'd give one of these a try.
I did it the other way round after and moved to hss parting tool after to many damaged carbide parting tips £40.00 in 10 days

 

[Matthew92]

@Ian James When I spoke to arceurotrade, they advised me against these carbide ones, apparently they aren't very forgiving and if you're not confident or don't really know what you're doing then you break them. So I took the advise and got one that looks similar to this but has a HSS Co-8 blade, first test parting, jammed and broke the blade, bought a new blade and tried again, I didn't get very far in and the same happened again. Perhaps I wasn't putting enough cutting fluid on it, or my speed wasn't right I don't know, but that was £20 worth of blades and I hadn't parted anything off yet. Im hoping I can do a bit of research and make sure I get my speeds right and use the power feed to part off with this. I need to look at filling the coolant tank on my lathe as that would probably makes things easier. If I don't get on with this, then it'll be back to the HSS, or a hacksaw.

 

[indy4x]

Could make a small welding table from it.

That was my thought

The camlock chuck has a worn scroll so ideal for rotary welding jobbie as well, 4 jaw is very useable tho

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Boring bars which will be put to good use tomorrow. Cheers. Boss.

Some milling cutters from a kind soul

Also picked some decent flex up for the motor/vfd. Not so Heath Robinson now.

New set of strippers. Used some last week and they work well.