winchman
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Thanks now moved to the kitchen cupboard, still got 2kg of sloes left saving up for more gin, made one small batch with brown sugar as a test?I always do, it helps it keep nice and deep red.
Thanks now moved to the kitchen cupboard, still got 2kg of sloes left saving up for more gin, made one small batch with brown sugar as a test?I always do, it helps it keep nice and deep red.
Note the escaping oil from when it was running.Stick up a pic, my filler hole is on the top, just above and to the left of the sight glass - like in this Google image
Ref Post No. 11409, last Thursday.
The Adze.
View attachment 156543
From the de-rusting tank, after being left in paint stripper to remove some varnish junk.
View attachment 156545
The Hammer end was dressed and re shaped. It didn't need much, just a bit burr removed.
The working end, what a ducking mess.
I had to grind it back, re-shape and re-grind the edge.
I then heated to red heat, quenched in old oil. The cleaned it back to allow me to see the colour move as I tempered the end to dark blue.
That Image is after I quenched it after tempering.
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The Name and details highlighted in blue tinted bee's wax. The Head now is temporary finished in clear lacquer, until I sort the shaft out.
Oh yes. I have sharpened the cutting edge to be able to removes hairs on my arm.
Note the escaping oil from when it was running.
I bought a mini circular saw about 4 weeks ago, from Aldi currently still listed on their website, it’s one of those 18v battery jobs, cheap but not cheap at just under the £60 mark, I only bought it because I needed to cut some board and it was there on a Sunday, it comes with 3 blades,
Cutting wood sheets with the woodcutting blade didn’t work great, the blade doesn’t spin fast enough, it wanders too easily, and the battery doesn’t last long enough, I was tempted to take it back for a refund, chalking it down to experience, but in the last few weeks I have used it quite a bit, but with the supplied little diamond disc, it’s cut lots of fiberglass trims for my flat roof, and cleaning out mortar before fitting the lead work, and part cutting blocks and it’s currently being used to cut the recesses and drops to fit sockets, I got a nail gun from Aldi as a gift and it uses the same battery, so now works twice as long,
It’s not nearly as good as an angle grinder, especially a mains powered one, but it’s certainly been useful for me, even if not for what I bought it for, and being able to do the odd cut without sorting out a supply of electricity, up a ladder or on the flat roof has been useful.
Note the escaping oil from when it was running.
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Very kind offer thanks slim, I shall have a look at work first, see what we have, I'm pretty sure there are blanks the right size. Might also have to invest in some oil, or find some at work, to top it up now, a decent amount has been sprayed out!Yes, it would. Afaik it has a splash lubricating system. You're welcome to my old one - just the 'turn' bit on the top [like you get on a hot water bottle stopper] is off. Easily prised out if you need to add oil [I didn't ].
No screw on it, just push fit with 2 x 'O' rings.
I shall have a look and see if there is anything breather like, if not I may look at fabricobbling some sort of convinced filler bung breather thing.Th
I think I'd turn up a new plug myself, adding an " O " ring to make a good seal to the filler hole walls . Then make a simple bracket with swinging arm to fit to the two visible screws so that the arm can be swung over via decent tight washer joint so the end of the arm fits in a dimple in the end of new plug to keep it in place . The last thing you need is for your replacement oil filler /drain plug to vibrate out again or be blown out because of crank case pressure .
Thinking on, as to why the filler cap came out ….. do you think a highest point you can find , crank case breather made of a hollow low vented pin filled with some scotch bright as a condenser pad set in a turned cylinder with a bottom end sealed & a 1 mm holed vented breather cap might help if you are getting crank case compression ?
That way any blown out oil should stay in the Scotchbrite padding in the breather body and drain back down into the crank case when the compressor is stopped .
Think along the lines of making something like a two part wine demijohn air lock device filled with some Scotchbrite pad or stainless steel wool , but bigger & the spigot as a threaded hollow bolt with a drilled through to the centre of the tube low down 1mm dia oil drain down back into the sump hole.I shall have a look and see if there is anything breather like, if not I may look at fabricobbling some sort of convinced filler bung breather thing.
so you can check the amount of oil in the machine .
Old Russian electrical stuff is weird, I had a radio, and to change from VHF, SW ect you rotated a big knob on the side and the whole PCB inside spun round to different contacts !
Looked like the Flintstones designed it.
Old Russian electrical stuff is weird, I had a radio, and to change from VHF, SW ect you rotated a big knob on the side and the whole PCB inside spun round to different contacts !
Looked like the Flintstones designed it.
Even I'm wondering if I might be pushing my luck with that one.