CornishPete
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Looks like there's just two tabs holding the axle in place? Surely it wouldn't be a massive job to grind them off and fit new more substantial one?
- Thread starter pondy
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If you put gusets in it would be best bolted on then but with a tube sleeve welded in place at both ends to stop the box sqashing
OK, just not up to speed on what is OK on UK roads now. I, assumed any trailer that was on public roads must have suspension, even if it is that apology called Indespension
That trailer will not be road legal.
I bet it MAM is around the 750 kg mark though you can tell that by just looking at its scale and construction it's only a garden ATV trailer with a designed speed not exceeding 20 mph so will not need any suspension
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That looks like it is designed for well over 750kg. I bet its getting close to that empty.
The tyre tread is not covered by the body, no secondary coupling, non road use tyres.
Towed behind a car so doing in excess of 20mph.
Woody.v8
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Other than that though it's OK though, yes?
I don't see it being towed behind a car in any of the pics !! Tyres outside the body does not apply for agricultural equipment including groundsman equipment turf tyres well as long as they have the correct rating and there disigned speed is not exceed they would be legal for agricultural ground care use
addjunkie
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That too me looks like one of those imported compact tractor trailers, 1 ton maybe two, for carrying much etc, But hard core is rather dense, so it doesnt take much volume to be more than a couple of tons.
I suggest you are way way overloading it. To straighten that Id cut it off and clamp it to a big piece of channel girder, then weld it up. Then weld the flat side to the bottom of the trailer frame.
I suggest you are way way overloading it. To straighten that Id cut it off and clamp it to a big piece of channel girder, then weld it up. Then weld the flat side to the bottom of the trailer frame.
CompoSimmonite
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Do it once and do it properly. Remove axle fron chassis and reinforce with HD tube. Just my opinion.
when you put the reinforcement on you really need it to run the full length, if you add short bits to the ends you're leaving all the bending force right where it is now - right where it bent
I'd really like to remove it and slide it inside a tight bit of box section, then you can stick angle iron down each side... would be super strong... could use the angle iron to bolt it back to the chassis, and et a good weld onto the flat sides....
but if that's more work than you want you could add a flat bar on edge under the axle the bigger/thicker the better
notch it out around the brackets that hold it up to the axle
keep it one piece the full length from wheel to wheel... that way you shift the leverage/bending force all the way over to the other side of the chassis where the axle is bolted onto the other side
I'd really like to remove it and slide it inside a tight bit of box section, then you can stick angle iron down each side... would be super strong... could use the angle iron to bolt it back to the chassis, and et a good weld onto the flat sides....
but if that's more work than you want you could add a flat bar on edge under the axle the bigger/thicker the better
notch it out around the brackets that hold it up to the axle
keep it one piece the full length from wheel to wheel... that way you shift the leverage/bending force all the way over to the other side of the chassis where the axle is bolted onto the other side
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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def bin that axle......if it bent once it'll do it again and a bit of angle etc etc stiffening, it wont last long.......
bite the bullit and do it prop job........
bite the bullit and do it prop job........
Scaff tube over it get it hot tweek it back,
Weld some flat stock on edge to the top of axel and it’ll be fine.
If it was me that’s what I’d do if it’s been. Ok for a fair while before if it happens again I’d just cut the axel off and fit a tougher one out the hedge
Edit ... I hate auto mistake. Make enough myself
Weld some flat stock on edge to the top of axel and it’ll be fine.
If it was me that’s what I’d do if it’s been. Ok for a fair while before if it happens again I’d just cut the axel off and fit a tougher one out the hedge
Edit ... I hate auto mistake. Make enough myself
brightspark
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who cares going on the road as long as you don't get caught 
which is hardly likely having said that its ring and pin so you would have needed a pin towbar
which is hardly likely having said that its ring and pin so you would have needed a pin towbarproblem with welding ontop is it can only be a short piece before it hits the chassis.... can weld to that but still makes that the pivot point (where it's already bent)
better to have a long piece run the full length on the bottom of the axle
. Welding on top Not the perfect solution but it’s the easy solution and probaly enough. Any more effort and I’d swap the axel
