it seems to be the best way to me but the way i would do it does not mean its the best way to repair it, would you agree in cutting the rust out along the door rail as i suggested ? thanks
- Thread starter al1959
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If you're bothered about those spots they don't look too bad just burr them back touch up and polish in. Probably started out as chips in the paint, I doubt you need to take anything off
From what I remember you take the panel off the door and there's a few bolts to undo the hinge then you kind of unhook the bottom at a certain point where there's like a notch to slip out of (it's been around 10 years since I replaced one) the bracket for the door should come off with the runner (I've not actually took a runner off just replaced doors) . But not difficult if you have a look at it... No tutorial/manual needed. Square peg, square hole...
When I do things in regard to cutting rust out and doing it "properly" depends on the lifetime of the vehicle, wether it's a Ferrari that's going to be around forever or a Ford ka that'll end up in the scrapyard in 5-6 years time. If it's good enough and gets it through another 8 mot's jobs a goodun'
As long as it's strong. It's why I'll primarily use gas welding on cars as is it flashes the surrounding rust.
Burning all it off around the weld. Tempering it solid. I Just mig superficial stuff.. Floppy panels/skins ect that warp with heat, that and the fact I can weld twice as far on the bottles than a bottle of co2/argon and works out cheaper. Works out cheaper before even throwing electric cost into the mix. Per meter. It seems more expensive but you'll replace them half as much. For tin sheet anyhow. Obviously the thicker it is the more gas you use. But the tin sheet is extremely low pressure.
From what I remember you take the panel off the door and there's a few bolts to undo the hinge then you kind of unhook the bottom at a certain point where there's like a notch to slip out of (it's been around 10 years since I replaced one) the bracket for the door should come off with the runner (I've not actually took a runner off just replaced doors) . But not difficult if you have a look at it... No tutorial/manual needed. Square peg, square hole...
When I do things in regard to cutting rust out and doing it "properly" depends on the lifetime of the vehicle, wether it's a Ferrari that's going to be around forever or a Ford ka that'll end up in the scrapyard in 5-6 years time. If it's good enough and gets it through another 8 mot's jobs a goodun'
As long as it's strong. It's why I'll primarily use gas welding on cars as is it flashes the surrounding rust.
Burning all it off around the weld. Tempering it solid. I Just mig superficial stuff.. Floppy panels/skins ect that warp with heat, that and the fact I can weld twice as far on the bottles than a bottle of co2/argon and works out cheaper. Works out cheaper before even throwing electric cost into the mix. Per meter. It seems more expensive but you'll replace them half as much. For tin sheet anyhow. Obviously the thicker it is the more gas you use. But the tin sheet is extremely low pressure.
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thanks for that, its pretty bad under the runner and has been filled and bodged all the way along, if it was just a few rust spots then yes i would have sanded it back and treated it but the way it is it just looks a mess and it will be even worse next year.
I was just referring to the door removal.
It really depends how bad it is. How does it look on inside?
Going on worst case scenario, check out Fitzee's "cut n butt" method on the tube, probably the best method
Dcal
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Open it up an see what you have.
If you can't buy a repair section it's not too hard to make one.
Also it's a nice solid section to weld to so should help with controlling distortion.
