trasit welding help needed

[Misterg]

Yes I know it can, by measuring a pressure drop across a restriction, but I’ve never seen a reg do this. It might infer it, by inferring more pressure equals more flow

There's a restrictor / orifice built into this type of regulator assembly.

Pedantic ex instrument tech me I know.....

Think of it as an orifice plate in reverse - rather than measuring DP to measure flow, you set the DP and get the flow.

The restrictor is sized such that it is much bigger than the likely restriction from any downstream valves, pipes. etc. so that these only have a minimal effect on the flow.

Of course, it won't be as linear as the gauge graduations would suggest, but close enough for rock and roll - Flow can always be confirmed with a peashoooter in any case.

 

[eddie49]

A flow meter will show flow, usually a vertical type with flow control.

@al1959 , this is what the vertical type of flow meter looks like:

The rate - typically 10 litres per minute - is indicated by a floating ball in the tube, and a needle valve at the base provides precise control.

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[Morris]

Thanks @eddie49
I can't post pictures due to the very slow and unreliable internet at our hotel.

 

[al1959]

tomorrow is forcast a better day so i will get some practice in, i have prepared metal today for stitch and blug welding, i hope i can get it dialled in without to many problems.
i picked up the gas pipe today which connects the regulater to the little white pipe on the welder so there is nothing to hold me back now other than the weather which has been really crap up here in the last 10 days or so.
once i have the fllor and turret done i will have to follow on with the step which a few have already said would happen even before i had looked at it, luckily the step is not to bad and will only need a few small plates on it but this is a job for later, the floor and turret need sorting first.
its all proving to be a bit of a pain in the **** but hey its a camper van which will give us many breaks away so to me its worth the effort and its going to be in better condition by the time i am finished with it than it was when i bought it, nect year i intend to get underneath and clean away as much of the underseal as possible and treat the area`s with hammerite kurite hammerite primer, this van will last for many more years by the time i am done, besides how can i fail when i have you guys behind me!

 

[tom 748]

lol you ill be welding it every year

 

[al1959]

what a difference a gas welder makes!

0.6 wire is ok for stitching but i am have problems getting the weld to come through on the plug welds, should i go up to 0.8 for the plugs?

 

[eddie49]

i am have problems getting the weld to come through on the plug welds, should i go up to 0.8 for the plugs?

Not sure what size those holes for plug welding are, but maybe they are not big enough?
Try 8mm holes ( i.e. 5/16" ), and aim the wire very determinedly at the under-sheet not the top sheet, then circle the torch around the rim of the hole.

 

[al1959]

thanks eddie
i tried again, 8mm holes and 0.6 wire, i have

 

[theMenace]

what a difference a gas welder makes!

You were certainly thrown in at the deep end!

Plug welds coming along excellent. 0.6 wire will be fine on the thinner sheet, you obviously don't want the plugs to blow all the way through.

 

[Dessieb2022]

thanks eddie
i tried again, 8mm holes and 0.6 wire, i have View attachment 419222View attachment 419223

When doing these type of welds do you want the mound on the back side? Or should it ideally be more flat like the front side?

 

[minimutly]

When doing these type of welds do you want the mound on the back side? Or should it ideally be more flat like the front side?

You’re wasting wire! And gas!

 

[GRW]

You’re wasting wire! And gas!

I don't see how getting practice in & torch time can be a waste tbh. The more comfortable he can be & familiar with the kit before tackling the van, the better - I don't think that should be discouraged

 

[al1959]

i agree, i was using a gasless welder and decided after advise here to get a gas welder, i could have done without the expense but needs must and don`t forget i have never used this type of welder before or worked on a car so yes i needed to get to grips with how it worked especially the plug welds which you got me sorted with in the end, thanks for pointing me in the right direction themenace.
i will start the welds shortly, here is were i am at just now, i dont want to go any further today as might have to go out.

 

[Hopefuldave]

Make sure you always turn off the cylinder tap when not welding and especially overnight. A small leak can be costly. It's a real kick in the nuts to find an empty cylinder the day after buying it.

And wind the pressure adjustment right out, main cause of regulators crapping out is a permanenet set developing on the diaphragm and spring from being left wound in.

 

[al1959]

what underseal do you guys use? i have the spray on weld through primer and also a tin of hammerite paint on primer, do i need to underseal as well? what do you suggest?
thanks

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

I usually do weld thro on the flanges...plug weld...then use cavity wax on any closed sections (warmed up in a bucket of hot water) injected in once it's all done. I think everyone has their own preferred way of doing things though so just pick something that works for you.

Plugs are getting there...make sure the sheets are well clamped together when you do the plugs...if you can't clamp them lean on the panel with a hammer handle I find helps too. I usually aim for a visible penetration on the reverse...shouldn't be a big lump though as that can be a pain to clean up (ie on a sill flange).

 

[maroon]

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Apply all with brush.

I think the second one is correct "beige steel etch"

2-3 coats of bottom one on the underside. After etching primer.
Primer etch one day give it a good few hours 10-12+, Then do three underseals in 2hr drying time spaces next day.

Available from any local paint supplier. Get 5l of celly thinners too "standard" lightly!!! thin the Etch (as you're brushing not spraying, get it an oil/gravy viscosity as from the tin it's like heavy gloss) I do it in a large coffee jar to keep it fresh for the next time.
Clean your brushes and whatnot.

 

[al1959]

back again.

thanks for the underseal advise.

the weather is not helping me at all and the next 3 days will be rained off as well. i just have a small patch to do in the top right hans side of the footwell.

a quick question, i have a rust hole just in the floor just 3 or so inches over the diesel tank, how should i go about sorting this??? my personal thoughts were soaking as old towel and stuffing it between the tank and floor then cutting out, i also have space to mush some sheet metal on top if the tank then the wet towel then do the same for the weld...........your thoughts please

so here is what it looks like at the moment.

 

[maroon]

back again.

thanks for the underseal advise.

the weather is not helping me at all and the next 3 days will be rained off as well. i just have a small patch to do in the top right hans side of the footwell.

a quick question, i have a rust hole just in the floor just 3 or so inches over the diesel tank, how should i go about sorting this??? my personal thoughts were soaking as old towel and stuffing it between the tank and floor then cutting out, i also have space to mush some sheet metal on top if the tank then the wet towel then do the same for the weld...........your thoughts please

I think it's on straps from what I remember the mk3's with like half a foot of filler pipe insertion. Could drop it leave it hanging for more clearance. Wedge a bit of soaked 5mm panel board over.
Something spatter can bounce off of.

Get as much clearance as possible. Cork it, board it, wet rag it.
Or pull it out completely (safer option) just don't start welding straight away, let it air off when popping pipes open with diesel ******* everywhere.

Like the next day.

 

[al1959]

well the rain has finally cleared so i will casrry on welding tomorrow.
i think i have found out why the rust so bad on that side of the van, someone has replaced the wings at some point as both still have the centralpanels stickers on them, the pronlem side has been kinda bodged on fitting so the rain has had a clear run into the van. i reckon the arch which is still in good condition would need to come off so i can repair the inner panels then refix and seal it correctly,
since the wings have already been replaced would these be bolted on or welded? does anyone have a link to taking off mk5 wings?, i have had a look and only found a mk6.

what would be best to seal around the windscreen as i think i might have a slight leak around the edge and at the bottom of the windscreen, not sure how bad as yet but this weekends rain has shown a few leaks.

thanks