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tom 748
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get some gas
weldingnovice
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Hard to tell from your pics, but strut top area is probably double skin.
If the outer skin is kipperd then the top reinforcement will need to come off to make the repair easier.
Take some measurements, preferably triangulate from definitive fixed points. Cut out. Don't get fixated on dimensional accuracy probably factory spec + - 5mm.
Wire wheel the strut top mount inside the cab and look for spot welds.
Much better/easier with gas.
If the outer skin is kipperd then the top reinforcement will need to come off to make the repair easier.
Take some measurements, preferably triangulate from definitive fixed points. Cut out. Don't get fixated on dimensional accuracy probably factory spec + - 5mm.
Wire wheel the strut top mount inside the cab and look for spot welds.
Much better/easier with gas.
thanksHard to tell from your pics, but strut top area is probably double skin.
If the outer skin is kipperd then the top reinforcement will need to come off to make the repair easier.
Take some measurements, preferably triangulate from definitive fixed points. Cut out. Don't get fixated on dimensional accuracy probably factory spec + - 5mm.
Wire wheel the strut top mount inside the cab and look for spot welds.
Much better/easier with gas.
trying to get a lend or rent of a gas welder through facebook and gumtree, i don`t want to buy one but if i must then i suppose that`s the way i will have to go.
Pub gas - c02 is absolutely fine, 10 times better than flux cored gasless. If you're going to repair a Transit camper a 150A mig will pay for itself over and over. You're welds on flat clean steel should look like its come out of a toothpaste tube, with penetration to match.
would the CLARKE PRO 90 MIG WELDER do the job ok?
i might just be able to get a gas bottle from one of the bars on camp, would this fit onto a PRO 90 ok?, this welder comes with a regulator.
what size bottle would be best and how do you get them filled again?
i might just be able to get a gas bottle from one of the bars on camp, would this fit onto a PRO 90 ok?, this welder comes with a regulator.
what size bottle would be best and how do you get them filled again?
You might struggle with penetration on thicker steels you might meet, my 130 is usually set to level 2 for bodywork, not sure what sort of amps that would be. I repaired a live torch cheapy welder years ago, don’t recall it’s size, but sub 100 and it welded bodywork perfectly. I’m tempted to say yes, but having not used the one you mention I daren't.
You need to find a fRiendly pub landlord, or alternative is to go to hobby gas, I’ve seen a Co2 extinguisher used before now. Never bother with the disposable canister ones, they are designed to make you pay for misery.
Until you go to gas you will struggle, I wouldn’t even consider gasless for your project.
You need to find a fRiendly pub landlord, or alternative is to go to hobby gas, I’ve seen a Co2 extinguisher used before now. Never bother with the disposable canister ones, they are designed to make you pay for misery.
Until you go to gas you will struggle, I wouldn’t even consider gasless for your project.
If it were me I would cut the floor back to the chassis leg (ft X ft & a half) . It would be easyer to do from the top and knit over the leg and seam underneath, lip the sides. The strut top looks fine. It's everything around it that's gone. Piece by piece around it. To keep shape.
Make sure you're lashing on plenty of Etch and sealer while you're doing it.
Make sure you're lashing on plenty of Etch and sealer while you're doing it.
sorry, how do you mean lip the sides?
something like that.
the top do it in two sections to keep the shape. cut one then weld. then cut the other and weld.
go under and hammer a lip up. do that bit last on the floor plate so when you welly the lip up its got rigitity.
if you can do as much as you can inside it saves you scraping around on the floor.
somtimes cutting bigger is easier when it comes to flat floors as you can get access to clean up without having to scrum around underneath. do it from the top. cut in red.
you can use the shape of the car for things like arches. using the tack and bend method. no need for fancy rollers or wheels or anything
got its thanks.
after listening to the advise from you guys i have ordered the CLARKE PRO 90 gas MIG WELDER. it should be here tomorrow, i also ordered a a sheet of 1.5mm steel for the turret, i was intending to just go with the 1.2mm i had but decided on a stronger sheet of 1.5. the floor will be done in 1.2mm
after listening to the advise from you guys i have ordered the CLARKE PRO 90 gas MIG WELDER. it should be here tomorrow, i also ordered a a sheet of 1.5mm steel for the turret, i was intending to just go with the 1.2mm i had but decided on a stronger sheet of 1.5. the floor will be done in 1.2mm
not at the moment, i went to machine mart and bought 2 x 1ltr bottles, hobby weld want £168 for the 1st 10 ltr bottle then just swap as needed for £55 per refill, if my son is unable to get a full bottle of camp then it will have to be hobbyweld. even then i am not sure what regulater i would need for pub gas, regarding hobbyweld the cost of a regulater is as yet unknown.
Misterg
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Just noticed this - the regulator that comes with the welder is almost certainly a tiny one for the disposable gas bottles - check carefully as it won't be any good for bigger bottles. (And don't go down the disposable route - it works out incredibly expensive).
[Edit - messages crossed - you're on it
]Pigeon_Droppings2
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Try SGS...just enter postcode to find a stockist. https://www.sgsgases.co.uk
Can't remember what I last paid but I seem to remember it was better value getting the 20l bottle...20l was something like £40 more than 10l as I recall!
Those disposable bottles are useless (I'm speaking from experience)...i found it impossible to get the flow adjusted and they're really inconsistent.
AdventuresInMetal
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Something wrong here? My deposit on a 10L hobbyweld 5 is £70 and a fill is £48, if that price is correct try another hobbyweld dealer or as already said, SGS or Adams Gas if you can get it are both better value.
Stay away from the disposable bottles they are pure extortion and quite frankly a bloody waste.
thanks for that, im now sorted for bottled gas and its right on my doorstep at only 4 miles away, sgs never came up when i searched for bottled gas, including the price of a regulater at £28 the total cost to get me started would be £175 and only £45 for further refills, and as you all know i get the deposit of the bottle back when i no longer need it. ( only put that in for any newbies in the same position as me and looking at costs.
so when the welder arrives i will take it down to sgs just to make sure the regulator fit ok.
i really appreciate the help off you lot.
AdventuresInMetal
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Take your unused disposables back to machine mart, It pays for your new regulator... (i'm serious)
