trasit welding help needed

[Keithmac]

Just be methodical about it and don't get overwhelmed.

Most of the underside of my car was rotten but just plug at a bit at a time and eventually you'll come out the other end.

Just make sure it's safe to get underneath, more axle stands the better!.

Thick underseal and poor jacking killed my Golf by the look of it.

 

[al1959]

thanks keithmac
now looking at what welders will do the job, i have a parkside which will drop to 25 amps, i have welded 1mm panels with 0.6 wire with no problems, the other option i have is a clarke 106 welder being sold locally to me.
any thoughts from you guys?

 

[eddie49]

Which exact model of Lidl/Parkside welder do you have? Is it the variable power transformer one ( PFDS 120 A2 ), or a full inverter welder ( PIFDS xxx ) ? Are you using gasless flux-core wire?

 

[al1959]

its the parkside inverter flux cored wire welder pifds 120 A1

 

[al1959]

sorry.... yes i have gasless flux cored wire 0.6 and 0.8

 

[al1959]

keithmac, how long did that take from start to finish and what size sheet metal did you use on the floor?

 

[al1959]

thanks dcal,
you had a bit of work going on with that job, i hope mine turns out to beasier easier than that.

 

[eddie49]

its the parkside inverter flux cored wire welder pifds 120 A1

The Parkside PIFDS 120 A1 is a very good single-control "synergic" MIG welder. Forum member @willie.macleod has one and says that the voltage-to-wirespeed ratio is correct.
I would not bother with the Clarke MIG106. It has a lower maximum rating ( only 100A vs. 120 ), a higher minimum ( 40A ), and being a step-switched transformer machine rather than an inverter, there are only 4 coarse power settings. The Parkside inverter has fully-variable control, so it will be easier to dial-in a value that works for you.
However, if you were considering switching to use solid wire with gas, then the Clarke would have that option, but the Parkside does not.
There are several Forum threads about the best choices for flux-core wire. At the budget end, Lidl wire is OK.

 

[tom2207]

Q ... How do you eat an elephant .???

A .. one bite at a time ,,,

basically little and often will get you there , if the strut top is daunting , after a bit of practice on the bench , start on the easy bits , something small and do it , start to finish , be happy , then do something else ,,, after a week or two on the easy bits , the hard bits will just turn into another easy bit , for the floor 1.2 will be fine , after a while you may find a local ab shop or metal supply place , once you get in the swing of it all its grand . But dont go cutting lots off , end up with big holes and scare yourself , post pictures and ask questions , folk here will talk you through it ... just pick the advise you fancy , or like the sound of , and if two or three say roughly the same , then follow the guidance ,,, roughly ,, it will all get there .

 

[al1959]

The Parkside PIFDS 120 A1 is a very good single-control "synergic" MIG welder. Forum member @willie.macleod has one and says that the voltage-to-wirespeed ratio is correct.
I would not bother with the Clarke MIG106. It has a lower maximum rating ( only 100A vs. 120 ), a higher minimum ( 40A ), and being a step-switched transformer machine rather than an inverter, there are only 4 coarse power settings. The Parkside inverter has fully-variable control, so it will be easier to dial-in a value that works for you.
However, if you were considering switching to use solid wire with gas, then the Clarke would have that option, but the Parkside does not.
There are several Forum threads about the best choices for flux-core wire. At the budget end, Lidl wire is OK.

thanks for that, you have saved me out for another welder, what i will do get some practice in before i start on the van and i will post the practice runs here so the guys can tell me when i am ready to go for it.

 

[al1959]

Q ... How do you eat an elephant .???

A .. one bite at a time ,,,

basically little and often will get you there , if the strut top is daunting , after a bit of practice on the bench , start on the easy bits , something small and do it , start to finish , be happy , then do something else ,,, after a week or two on the easy bits , the hard bits will just turn into another easy bit , for the floor 1.2 will be fine , after a while you may find a local ab shop or metal supply place , once you get in the swing of it all its grand . But dont go cutting lots off , end up with big holes and scare yourself , post pictures and ask questions , folk here will talk you through it ... just pick the advise you fancy , or like the sound of , and if two or three say roughly the same , then follow the guidance ,,, roughly ,, it will all get there .

so how do i actually start this, yes i will clean down to good bare metal, if i then post the pics of the area cleaned up would the guys here be able to then tell me where to make the first cut out? i gather i then go and make the same shape with new metal and spot that part back in? then work around the turret doing the same but bits at a time, as for the floor which will be my first job being the easiest, if you look at the floor you will see it has channels than run down the floor but sheet metal is flat, how do i match them up to weld? i have been looking on youtube for this but as yet have not come across a video that addresses this problem....for me anyway.

 

[tom2207]

so how do i actually start this, yes i will clean down to good bare metal, if i then post the pics of the area cleaned up would the guys here be able to then tell me where to make the first cut out? i gather i then go and make the same shape with new metal and spot that part back in? then work around the turret doing the same but bits at a time, as for the floor which will be my first job being the easiest, if you look at the floor you will see it has channels than run down the floor but sheet metal is flat, how do i match them up to weld? i have been looking on youtube for this but as yet have not come across a video that addresses this problem....for me anyway.

after your comfy welding outside the van , start on the van , an easy flat bit that you can get to and repair ,,, do a few of them and when your ready move to the strut top ,,, dont run before you can walk ,,,, steady tiger .


If you really must start there , start by cleaning it all back to sound metal.

 

[Keithmac]

keithmac, how long did that take from start to finish and what size sheet metal did you use on the floor?

Me and my lad took the engine out last September!.

Sills were galvanised 0.8mm. My repair panels were all 1.1mm sheet steel.

I've also bought multiple repair panels from VW Heritage, all great quality.

I ended up welding 2 meter lengths of 3mm thick 25x25 angle iron (mild steel) down both sides and worked from there (the car was basically scrap but a lot of sentimental value to me).

Nearly finished, all repairs sealed in Epoxy Primer now. MOT first before I worry about final paint!.

Golf..

Owned my MK2 16v Golf over 20 years now and it's long overdue some TLC. It's a 16v with G60 Supercharger (BBM conversion brackets etc), one of 7 in the UK when I built it way back when! Just a few pics of work so far, probably a lot of welding pics to come!.

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[Stag]

Bit of mesh some fiberglass filler and some hammerite MOT in a can.

job done.

 

[mike 109444]

If you want to see what is possible using VERY basic hand tools and a lump of steel as an anvil then grab a coffee and see this thread. Not a transit I know but the basic metal shaping is what to see.

http://www.vwrides.com/viewtopic.php?t=43&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=e94e541b5e4271eafded97960c1e8211

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Are repair or replacement panels available?

I've seen them for sale spot welded to each other...with 4 wheels attached for easy transportation .

As others have said, take a step back, assess the situation and formulate a plan....definitely do some easy bits first to get familiar with the process.

I usually match the steel thickness with what's already there...if it's double skin I usually repair as double skin...but some of this is just personal preference I think.

As other have said...don't cut too much off at once as its easy to lose the references.

And welcome to the forum...plenty of very helpful people on here

 

[Keithmac]

"Yorkshire Car Restoration" on YouTube are well worth a watch.

Amazing what they can produce out of a flat sheet of steel.

 

[mr haynes]

The smiley is mk5, from 94-2000
I wouldn't bother changing your welder, you are already used to welding 1mm sheet with it
Lots of good advice above.
Get some sheet steel and make your own repair sections.
Biggest thing to remember is if you can replicate what was already there , job be a goodun.
Not alot of body panels stock about for mk3-5 when i looked recently....
I am currently bodging something similar, it's all killer with lots of filler!

 

[Bobupndown]

I remember there being turret repair panels available for Mk1 and 2 Escorts. Is similar available for these Transits? Easier than making patches.

 

[8ob]

I remember there being turret repair panels available for Mk1 and 2 Escorts. Is similar available for these Transits? Easier than making patches.

Makes sense for the sake of £28, a bit more welding but a lot less faffing about .