- Thread starter TheBrick
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oilcooled :)
Pipe Welder, Mechanical engineer
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Madness here people recommending 7018 for that kind of welding people that haven’t got a clue to much information on the internet. Clean up the steel Get it fitting properly that’s half the battle, a box of dry 2.5s e6013 and practice practice practice practice. Switching rods isn’t practicing, it takes years to get complacent, and putting another variable into the equation doesn’t help, once you master 6013 7018 are a walk in the park
It's got two terminals 85v and 55v from memory so I guess try the 85v?
For the amateur learning 6013 vertical is difficult. It is a very different thing from welding on the flat and takes a lot of practice to master.
I was taught but I still struggle with 6013 vertical. Whereas with 7018 I can get a nice vertical weld with no weaving or messing around trying to manipulate the arc.
For the amateur only doing an occasional vertical weld I see nothing wrong with using 7018. Why make life difficult for yourself?
A lot of other countries use different rods like 6010, 7018, etc to make welding easier. I never understood why we in the UK seem to use 6013 for everything.
It was clean but trailer is outside so it's surfaced rust since I did the weld a 3-4 days ago
Yes, 85v.
What welder is it. Not many buzz boxes have a high ocv terminal.
Interesting. I was seeing the issue of not wetting into the side but the pools was dropping hence why I moved on. I felt like I couldn't get a fuse on the side without it dropping
Erie Fred
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All fine & good, But the OP is not welding hi pressure gas pipelines.
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Dropping the amps will help with that.
oilcooled :)
Pipe Welder, Mechanical engineer
- Messages
- 982
- Location
- Ireland
That’s why he doesn’t need lo hi. Fitting and cleaning is a big help, 6013 general purpose rods, trying to run 7018 on a buzz box is bad advice, and I’m sure his supply isn’t the best for them
I use roughly 50-60°
I have just gone out and prepared all my "sub assemblies" ready for welding onto trailer which will require the vertical welding.
I am going to set up a few test / practice pieces. I think maybe cut up some angle along the corner, tack on the bench then mount vertically. That's the easiest way I can think of setting some practice runs up but welcome to suggestions.
I am going to set up a few test / practice pieces. I think maybe cut up some angle along the corner, tack on the bench then mount vertically. That's the easiest way I can think of setting some practice runs up but welcome to suggestions.
oilcooled :)
Pipe Welder, Mechanical engineer
- Messages
- 982
- Location
- Ireland
90 degrees to the workpiece is the correct angle for vertical welding , having your rod pointing up at 45 degrees creates a ropey weld and tends to cause inclusions,
Erie Fred
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So far a few of us have tried to help the OP.
How about you try to actually help the OP with some practical advice eh ?
Erie Fred
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I was taught to use a slight upward angle, maybe 80 degrees.
oilcooled :)
Pipe Welder, Mechanical engineer
- Messages
- 982
- Location
- Ireland
Ok, what kind of welder has he got. Ditch the 3.2s. Get the 2.5s, if it’s a buzz box get the welder weld a t piece fillet on the bench keep adjusting the machine till it’s welding right and well and hot. And mark amp indicator on the machine. Now you have a start point. That’s 95 amps, that could be up on 120 on your machine depending on type and supply but that’s 95 true amps. Take it back to 80 to 85 amps from your mark, start at the top of the joint strike it like a match, come down the joint with a long long arc as long as you can hold with out loosing it and tighten your arc where you want to start, tight arc, 90 degrees to the workpiece. You can do your first run with Xmas tree Method, pausing and your edges not the centre of the joint. When your pausing at the edge the rod fills the centre of the joint. You’re aiming to carry less metal with you than on a flat run for obvious reasons. Total width of that first run is probably 5mm so you’re only weaving 2.5mm.
