7' long. I'm adding frame round the wheels. Including them "in" the trailer rather than outboard.
Thanks for the tips. Hopefully I will get a chance tonight and will post results.
- Thread starter TheBrick
- Start date
Thanks for the tips. Hopefully I will get a chance tonight and will post results.
i wouldn't, i struggled learning stick until i tried decent rods, the difference was unreal bohler and esab are way nicer to use
also try 7016
BrokenBiker
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its been a while since i did any uphil stick welding, but i was pretty ok with 6013.
base metal could definitley be cleaner and i would be using a 2.5mm rod for 4mm steel, 3.2mm are too big for that in my opinion and i think 130 amps is a bit much. my usual technique was to weave about a puddle width with a 'whip' motion from side to side, dont hang around in the middle so much, but let it sit on the edges and bite in.
i used to quite like uphill stick welding. i will try and mock up an uphill joint monday and see what works for me, im going to be welding 5mm flat bar, was going to tig it but could stick weld a few joints, been a while since i did any serious stick welding
base metal could definitley be cleaner and i would be using a 2.5mm rod for 4mm steel, 3.2mm are too big for that in my opinion and i think 130 amps is a bit much. my usual technique was to weave about a puddle width with a 'whip' motion from side to side, dont hang around in the middle so much, but let it sit on the edges and bite in.
i used to quite like uphill stick welding. i will try and mock up an uphill joint monday and see what works for me, im going to be welding 5mm flat bar, was going to tig it but could stick weld a few joints, been a while since i did any serious stick welding
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Barking Mat
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I've never managed to do vertical, so I repositioned the work piece at 45°.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
BrokenBiker
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as tigman says, ever so slight upward rod angle and dont pivot your wrist for the weave, use the elbow for movement so the whole rod/stinger moves as one. i find counting in my head helps with consistency when weaving so strike up, give it a second to get hot on whichever side you are starting on then count 1, move, 2, move, 3, move etc. the only welding course ive ever done was a basic mma course about 12 years ago and the one thing they drummed into us was to take your time, and stay relaxed/comfortable. if it starts getting away from you, just stop, chip the slag away and let it cool for a minute then go again. if its still getting away from you drop 5 amps and repeat. not looking bad so far though, few more beads and you will be there
Martin Hocking
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I do a lot of crappy farm welding, mostly off an old Aldi buzzbox ( occasionally the oil cooled limousine comes out if I’ve been good) with big gaps of time in between and I find it takes me a little while to get back in the swing. Uphill stuff is the most difficult of all I find. So well done so far.
The thing that always catches me out is rod dryness. Your rods can never be too dry, just because they aren’t wet doesn’t mean they are dry especially on a farm. If you can make any sense of that sentence!
If you’ve got a plug that’ll take the Amps giving them a little cook before you start by shorting them out on the work before you start or if you can putting them in the oven.
Best of luck.
The thing that always catches me out is rod dryness. Your rods can never be too dry, just because they aren’t wet doesn’t mean they are dry especially on a farm. If you can make any sense of that sentence!
If you’ve got a plug that’ll take the Amps giving them a little cook before you start by shorting them out on the work before you start or if you can putting them in the oven.
Best of luck.
Ok. One issue I always have is it being harder to strike with lower amps. I usually go for a little flick but found a longer drag away from my start point helped. Someone ^^^^ suggested dragging a long arc to start point and that seems to of helped.
Yes total sense thanks.
Very similar situation and usage pattern. I'll wack them in oven or top of the wood burner burner.I do a lot of crappy farm welding, mostly off an old Aldi buzzbox ( occasionally the oil cooled limousine comes out if I’ve been good) with big gaps of time in between and I find it takes me a little while to get back in the swing. Uphill stuff is the most difficult of all I find. So well done so far.
The thing that always catches me out is rod dryness. Your rods can never be too dry, just because they aren’t wet doesn’t mean they are dry especially on a farm. If you can make any sense of that sentence!
If you’ve got a plug that’ll take the Amps giving them a little cook before you start by shorting them out on the work before you start or if you can putting them in the oven.
Best of luck.
addjunkie
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I keep my rods in the airing cupboard. Id agree, dry rods do make a difference.
oilcooled :)
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Well done. Imagine what an hours practiced every evening over a month would do.
dextadriver
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recently I have been repairing some 12 foot gates
Where the steel is rusty I reduced Current to 85 amps
I used 6013 .. 3.25 diameter
it’s easier to weld vertical as the gates are heavy
The only advice I can give is plenty of practice on offcuts
I will say the second pack of rods produced better results
Where the steel is rusty I reduced Current to 85 amps
I used 6013 .. 3.25 diameter
it’s easier to weld vertical as the gates are heavy
The only advice I can give is plenty of practice on offcuts
I will say the second pack of rods produced better results
